Timing cover / water pump install 360

[TommyD]

Got my beautiful new nickle plated timing cover from MC and the new filter adapter to match! (thanks MC!)

Now ... after reading article after article AMC V8's I just want to make sure I install and seal them properly. Is there a specific sequence for installing the timing cover and water pump?

Do I install the water pump on the timing cover first and then install the timing cover on the engine? What about the alternator and power steering pump brackets? Will I run the risk of developing oil or water leaks if I remove bolts later to install these items.

Also, what is the best practice for installing the gaskets on these items. Should I use a combination of gasket sealer and High temp red silicone?

I know that all of you have had more experience at this than I... so let me know what you think as I would rather do it right the first time.

[jeepsr4ever]

Pretty eh......LOL :mrgreen: Its the toughness of the nickle thats the trick here.

Install the timing cover first, smear a thin thin layer on the gasket on both sides. On the cover you will see grooves around the backside of the water ports. put a tiny amount of silicone in the groove. This is for water leakage if you overhear or pressurize your system and doesnt let the water into the oil if the gasket fails....which it wont 99% of the time.

Then install the water pump

Dry fit it first making sure the pump fin assembly clears the timing cover on the inside of the water cavity. Sometimes you will need to use 2 gaskets...occasionally 3 if you have a aftermarket water pump. Smear a tiny amount on both sides of the gasket....Just enough to discolor it.


Some guys will tell you not to use silicone sealer and install dry and they may have good luck but to be safe use the silicone....in small portions. Basically you dont want to overdo the silicone and have it in your crankcase as it squeezes out and around the edges of the gasket. Silicone hardens with heat and when your oil gets acidic from not changing it it also hardens the silicone more and can cause small particles to gouge bearings under pressure if your oil filter bypass opens.

Good luck...did that help? :mrgreen:

[TommyD]

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.... was just out in the garage taking more skin off my knuckles!! :mrgreen:

I just wanted to double check that I am smearing silicone on the gaskets and not something like permatex super 300 or tack & seal gasket sealant.

Thanks again ... this is a big help... I've only had experience with chevy engines in the past, and this whole timing/oil pump setup is very different.

By the way... one or two more questions... will an edelbrock aluminum intake be able to handle the weight of the engine with a hoist plate on it when I do the install?

Also I noticed that the filter adapter that you sent does not have the oil check valve hole in it... does this require a specific type (year) of filter?

Sorry for all the questions... thanks again!! :t:

[jeepsr4ever]

regular filter for those, I do not lift them by carb plates...dont trust em...maybe im old fashioned :mrgreen:

[TommyD]

I'm with you... I was looking at the hoist plate with the thin metal and bad welds and I was thinking that good old fashion chain and bolts would be better. :t:

I just wanted to double check that I am smearing silicone on the gaskets and not something like permatex super 300 or tack & seal gasket sealant.

Thanks again!!

[jeepsr4ever]

no you dont need the high tack sealer. we use it only for midplate bottoms (oil pump midplate) silicone will work well

[TommyD]

Perfect.... thanks!! :t: