Dana 20 seals....heeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaallllpppp

[jeepsr4ever]

OK I must be retarded! I cant get the seals out of my dana 20...their are 2 for the yokes. Any of you guys pulled any seals lately? Also this T-case doesnt have interlock pins but the shift rods wont come out even after I take the setscrew out holding the shift arm....????? :smile:

[CJ Shark]

Dunno if this will help, just something I had on my comp


Model 20 Disassembly

1)Remove the five bolts that retain the rear output unit to the transfer case. One of these is longer than the others—take note of its location. Tap the rear output assembly with a soft-faced hammer to break it loose and remove it as a unit. If the end play in the rear output unit is correct (see inspection section) it is not necessary to disassemble this unit. If the rear output shaft seal is leaking, the yoke or flange (depending on U-joint type used) can be removed and the seal pulled out with a seal hook. Install a new seal, the yoke, and torque the yoke or flange nut to 175 foot pounds. If the rear output unit should need disassembly, refer to the last part of this disassembly section.

2)Remove the bottom cover (oil pan).

3)Remove the bolt and lockplate from the intermediate shaft. Drive the intermediate shaft out towards the rear of the case with a soft drift and a hammer. The shaft must be driven out rearward as the rear portion of the shaft is .0015 larger and will damage the case if it is driven out towards the front. Remove the intermediate gear, 48 roller bearings, three spacer washers, and two thrust washers from the case.

4)Remove the front output yoke nut, holding the yoke with a large pipe wrench or bench vise. Remove the yoke using an appropriate sized two-leg gear puller. If the front output seal is to be replaced, it should be removed from the front cap.

5)Remove the shift linkage, plugs, or switches from the top of the front output cap.

6)Remove the rear cover from the case. DO NOT drive a screwdriver or similar tool between the cover and case to break it loose. This will damage the adjusting shims.

7)Use a soft hammer or drift to tap the output shaft to the rear, thereby removing the bearing cup from the case.

8)Cut the safety wire and loosen the lock screw that retains the shift fork to the rod. Tap the shift rod to the rear to remove the cover, then tap the rod out the front of the case. The low range gear, fork, and front drive gear may now be removed. (Some units use socket setscrews and are not safety wired.) Don't lose poppet ball and spring.

9)Remove the front output cap bolts and front output cap assembly. Refer to end of this disassembly section if front output unit needs to be disassembled.

10)On 1962-1965 model 20's that use the thrust washer, tap a large screwdriver between the front bearing cone and the gear to separate these far enough to remove the snap ring from its groove. Do not pry against the gear teeth when separating this bearing as it will almost always chip a tooth. With the snap ring removed and on the forward part of the shaft, the shaft may be withdrawn from the case allowing the gears, thrust washer, and snap ring to be removed from the case. The remaining shift fork can now be turned to gain access to the lock screw, allowing the fork and rod to be removed from the case. It is advisable to take note of the position of the shift forks so they may be properly installed at reassembly. (Item #60 and #61 are found only on 1962 to 1965¬? model 20 transfer cases.) On model 20's that do not use the thrust washer, the shaft can be pulled from the bearing. These units use a spacer between the bearing and the shaft instead of the thrust washer and snap ring.

11)If necessary, the rear output section may be disassembled as follows: Remove the rear yoke and oil seal. Unscrew the speedometer driven gear from the rear housing. Rap the shaft on the end of a block of wood to remove the bearing cup and remove the shaft from the rear housing. The shims between the speedometer drive gear and bearings are what controls the rear shaft end play. End play checked with a dial indicator should be .002 to .005 with the unit assembled and the yoke nut torqued to 175 foot pounds.

12)Front output cap disassembly and inspection: Remove the front yoke and oil seal if not already done. Remove the indicator light switches or plugs, if not already done. Remove underdrive and direct shift shaft. Remove housing from front wheel drive shift shaft. Shift shafts should be cleaned so as not to damage new seals. Remove the shift shaft seals, if necessary. Assembly of this unit is in reverse order of above.

[CJ Shark]

Model 20 Assembly

Install the front wheel drive shift rod part way into the case. Put the front wheel drive shift fork on the rod in the same position as it was. Install the lock bolt in the fork making sure the bolt enters its hole in the rod. Tighten bolt 12 to 15 ft. lbs. and replace with safety wire. The safety wire is important.

Set the front output shaft sliding gear on the fork with the gear teeth facing the front of the transfer case.

Install the rear bearing cone assembly on the front output shaft, if it was removed.

Hold the output shaft gear in the case and install the front output shaft through this and the front sliding gear. Install the thrust washer and a new snap ring on the shaft. It is advisable to always use a new snap ring here whenever it is removed, if the unit being worked on had one. On units without thrust washer, install the spacer.

Install the front bearing cone assembly on the front output shaft.

Install the front and rear bearing cups.

Install the front output housing using a new gasket. Torque the retaining bolts to 30 ft. lbs.

Carefully tap the rear bearing cup forward to seat the front cup against the front output housing. This should (if properly done) remove all the end play in the front output shaft, thereby preparing it for end play adjustment. This is done as follows:

Hold the rear cover plate against the rear bearing cup and measure the gap between the cover and case with a feeler gage. Add .010 to this reading to determine the trial shim pack thickness. Install the trial shim pack and rear cover torquing the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (These adjusting shims come in .003, .010, and .031 thickness'.)

The rear bearing cup must be seated against the rear cover. This can easily be done by hitting the cover with a block of wood and hammer as described in the model 18 section. Mount a dial indicator on the case with the contact tip of the instrument on the end of the front output shaft. Move the shaft back and forth and read the end play on the indicator. Factory spec is .002 to .005 end play. Add or remove shims as required to obtain the desired end play.

Position the front wheel drive shift rod so it will allow the shift rod interlocks to enter the detents in the rod. This will allow the low range shift rod to be installed in the housing.

Put the low range shift rod part way into the case. Put the low range shift fork and gear in the case with the teeth facing forward. Push the shift rod into the case and through the fork until the rod is lined up with the shift fork bolt. Replace the bolt and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. Be sure to replace the safety wire.

Retain the 48 rollers and three spacer washers in the intermediate gear with light grease. Never mix old and new bearing rollers. The two rows of rollers are separated by a spacer washer and the other two spacer washers go on the outside of the rollers. "Glue" the thrust washers to the gear with the tangs positioned to fit into the slots in the case. Install the gear in the case with the larger diameter gear towards the front. Carefully insert the intermediate shaft from the rear of the case, positioning the slot on the back to accept the retainer plate and bolt. Torque retainer plate bolt to 15 ft. lbs.

Replace the rear output section using a new gasket. Torque the five bolts to 30 ft. lbs.

Replace the shift rod cover cups on the rear of the case. Tap into case about 3/8".

Replace the bottom cover (oil pan) using a new gasket. Torque bolts to 15 ft. lbs.

Install new output yoke oil seals and install yokes. Torque to 175 ft. lbs.

Check unit for freedom in all modes by hand turning.

[jeepsr4ever]

8) 8) Thats all I have to say



Now thats dang humurous :mrgreen: :idea:

[CJ Shark]

:mrgreen: