Hub service

[Mudrat]

OK folks, lets talk it up....

After a day in the mud and water -what's the best way to service your hubs???

Break'm down, wash'm out and regrease?
Pull'm, drain the axel and refill with a bearing pack?
Or What??

Mudrat

[jeepsr4ever]

you shouldnt be getting mud in your hubs.... 8)

[cj5 buggy]

since down here we play in mud and water alot ... i usually wait untill every 3rd or 4th time and then go ahead and pull'em out and repack...

[Mudrat]

you shouldnt be getting mud in your hubs.... 8)
If your serious about the gooey stuff, it's inevitable :?

Mudrat

[pyagid]

If your serious about the gooey stuff, it's inevitable :?

Mudrat

1 reason I am against mud

lets see if we could find more

you mud people are 111!!!

[cj5 buggy]

i bet the #2 reason is you don't want to sepnd 3-4 hours washing the mudd off???

you off camber folks are really 111!!! :mrgreen:

[pyagid]

i bet the #2 reason is you don't want to sepnd 3-4 hours washing the mudd off???

you off camber folks are really 111!!! :mrgreen:

You have to wash your vehicles???

I wash my cj 1-2 times a year #-o


That will change thow once i do the tub swap I think

-paul

[cj5 buggy]

i bet the #2 reason is you don't want to sepnd 3-4 hours washing the mudd off???

you off camber folks are really 111!!! :mrgreen:

You have to wash your vehicles???

I wash my cj 1-2 times a year #-o


That will change thow once i do the tub swap I think

-paul :t:

[Mudrat]

Thought that's what hi-speed water obsticles were for??? You know the stuff in the gutter so you can splash the bus riders :shock:

Mudrat

[80 J-10]

Only when it rains :?

[Mudrat]

And ur point? No rain, no mud. :smile: No mud, no reason to wash :wink:

Mudrat

[rollbar]

you shouldnt be getting mud in your hubs.... 8)


Absolutely right. I can go now & go into mud/h2o & not even worry about intrusion. Correct installation is the key. :?

[Toy Maker]

Proper installation is indeed key, as is the use of proper lubricant, however there is a back door weakness for those who have open knuckle dead spindle axles. That is the spindle seal area, which is inadequite for long term exclusion os water. Once water enters, it washes out the grease fron the spindle Torrington needle bearing, and then procedes through the inside of the spindle to the wheel bearings. That's why many people "Mysteriously" have outer bearing failures more prevelently. Many do not know that the spindle bearing and seals should be serviced as often as the wheel bearings. With out the spindle seal, as in a rear FF axle, or a closed knuckle front, the wheel bearings can go for a very long time without water entry if assembled properly.

[rollbar]

I've seen (don't remember) where some people put a zirk fitting & tap it into the front hub housing to keep the grease in & the h2o out.

[Toy Maker]

I have seen where people have drilled into the knob portion of a locking hub and installed a grease fitting, then complained that the hub would not work. To do any good, you would have to put the fitting in the wheel hub between the locking hub area and the outer race, and in most instances would have to remove the fitting to remove the wheels. This could push some grease through the spindle, pushing out the dirty stuff, however, it would also possibly push grease out past the wheel seal which could contaminate the brakes, or even push out the seal it's self, causing loss of lubricant and serious contamination problems.

[Mudrat]

...it would also possibly push grease out past the wheel seal which could contaminate the brakes, or even push out the seal it's self, causing loss of lubricant and serious contamination problems.

Important SAFETY tip there TM, Thanks. I'll stick with pulling bathing, and greasing my hubs ...

Mudrat

[Toy Maker]

While most people will say they know how to do a "simple" wheel bearing repack, for any who do not and want to know more check out
http://www.florida4x4.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=582&sid=238bc1181c906ed77f4bfc72950d4373

[Mudrat]

While most people will say they know how to do a "simple" wheel bearing repack, for any who do not and want to know more check out
http://www.florida4x4.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=582&sid=238bc1181c906ed77f4bfc72950d4373

Thanks TM quite detailed and thorough ... but ... um ... what's a "speedy sleeve"?

And

I went to the Amsoil page trying to find the GLC-x?? This was the listing on the grease page???

Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease, NLGI #2, GC-LB
Synthetic Heavy-Duty Grease with moly, NLGI #1, GC-LB
Synthetic Heavy-Duty Grease with moly, NLGI #2, GC-LB
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI #0
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI #1, GC-LB
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI #2, GC-LB
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Spray Grease
Synthetic High Viscosity Lithium Complex Grease
Synthetic Lithium Complex 00 EP Spy Grease, NLGI 00
Synthetic Water Resistant Grease, NLGI #1-1/2, GC-LB
Synthetic Aluminum Complex Food Grade Grease (USDA H-1) NLGI #2 High Temperature EP
Synthetic Fifth Wheel & Open Gear Compound, AGMA 14R

Mudrat

[Toy Maker]

GLC-xx is the Amsoil Part number for the Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI #2. Available in 8-oz tube, 14-oz cartriges (grease gun tubes), cases of tubes, 35-lb lug, 120-lb keg, or 400-lb drum. This multipurpose grease is suitable for wheel bearings, u-joints, chassis parts, and anything else that calls for a NLGI #2 grease, and a lot that does not.
http://www.amsoil.com/products/glc.html
If you should choose to order direct from Amsoil, please mention: ZO #504531 (shameless commercialism).
Spedi sleeve is a product of Chicage Rawhide (CR) and is also sold by National under the trade name "Redi-Sleeve", although still made by CR, and not in as many sizes. Generic versions are refered to as "wear sleeves".
http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q=speedi+sleive&sp-a=sp1002952c&sp-p=all&sp-f=ISO-8859-1&x=36&y=8

[Mudrat]

Soooooo, the sleeve goes on then the hub. Does this require a different seal or will a stock unit fit over the top? sounds like a good idea for a new shaft as well an older one.

Pat

[Toy Maker]

The sleeve is a very thin stainless steel ring that presses lightly onto the shaft, spindle, yoke, etc. seal surface. The sleeves are available in a variety of sizes and widths for different situations. All use the standard seal, and have a excellent seal surface finish, which is more abrasion resistant than the surface it covers. The sleive is recomended for covering damaged surfaces as well as new surfaces that could use renewable surface protection, as the sleeve can be removed and replaced easily as needed without deterioration of the underlying part.
I use and recomend using sleeves when possible anytime a new part is installed as the sleeve will outlast the part surface many times, gives a better finish (better sealing), and is replaceable in the rare instance it is required.
All seals have a shaft size range of tollerence for installation. The sleeve is thin enough as to not get out of the range for the original seal. In some instances, the slight increase in shaft size may help improve the sealing of worn undersize shafts (like a spindle seal surface someone has sanded on repeatedly), however, if the shaft is too far undersize, the standard sleeve for the part design dimension may not fit, being too loose. In that case, even with the sleeve, the sealing will be compromised, and the part should be replaced, with a new sleeve installed.
The benifits of the sleeve on new parts will be greatest on applications subject to contaminations with abbrasive material or long life usage, typical of offroad conditions, trucks, equipment, etc. while with highway driven vehicles subject to low mileage (grocery getters), the benefits may not be seen as readily. Sometimes the cost of the sleeve approaches the cost of the part, and if you are not having a part wear problem, the benifit is not there.
Proper choice of seal type and quality are also important to long term success. Do not just take the generic junk the child on the counter at DAP or AZ tries to hand you. Be sure you are getting the right stuff.

The part is cleaned, the sleeve is pressed (driven. etc) onto the part, the parting line between the surface of the sleeve and the part should be checked for sharp edges, lips, or burs, reclean, and then assembled as usual. If need be, a good small file can touch up or round off any roughness found. Be carefull not to slip and scratch the sealing surface.

Tom

[cj5steve]

hey all new mudhead here.i have a set of selectro hubs,and i never had a set of these till i bought this jeep.they have a 1/4 inch bolt in the face of the hub.i looked at these for awhile till i figured out you can unscrew them and put in a zerk fitting.not long ago i was out in the mud and about a week later my front wheel bearings started screaming so i tried it out and it worked like a champ!not trying to hijack this thread ,(but)does anybody know about these hubs.i have had 4 78 cj-5's and all have had warn premiums.i was a little worried about the strength of these but i havent hurt them yet.they are 1/2 turn,and the whole face of it is the knob.later YEAH HE SAID MUD!!!!

[Mudrat]

Not a hi-jack CJ5, info. I had a set of those on my 75 CJ5 and I broke the axle not the hub. Well, actually I broke both axles, windshield, bent the frame and he roll bar. With the right gloves it was easy to turn'm even after the mud :? Needed gloves to "get a grip" :lo1l:

Welcome to the board and the thread!!

Mudrat