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limpingalong
08-10-2004, 05:22 PM
I am working a frame up build of a CJ7 which will be converted to SOA.

I want to put a shackle reversal on at the same time. I have looked into rubicon express and MORE but haven't found anything that is made directly for the CJ7 without spending beaucoup $$$ to pirce something together.

Has anyone done this mod for a CJ7? If so, what did you do and how did it work for you?

Thanks,
Chip

pyagid
08-10-2004, 07:39 PM
http://www.spydercustoms.com/Axles/imga0022_med.jpg1) Did you ever determine what you are planning on running for axles?

Do you need to outboard the springs?

i am debating if I want to go with a SRS or not when i swap my axles in and go SOA.

Mountain Offroad does make a SRS for the CJ. But if you are going to outboard the springs to. Poison Spyder and Bluetorch Fab both make a nice outboard kit

I have been looking at both this
http://www.spydercustoms.com/Axles/imga0022_med.jpg

http://www.spydercustoms.com/Axles/imga0073_med.jpg from poison spyder

and this
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/oscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=62&products_id=70


http://www.bluetorchfab.com/oscomm/catalog/images/CJ_Full_Width_23.jpg

Maybe some one else could give us both insight

-Paul

limpingalong
08-11-2004, 05:38 AM
Thanks Paul -
I have looked at both of those systems and in the end decided to stick with my stock axles.

Now I am trying to figure out how to do the SRS.

Anyone else have any ideas?

tufcj
08-11-2004, 08:21 AM
I run the MORE SRS with my SOA. There was no piecing it together, it was a complete kit. It added about 1/2" lift which I leveled with a 1" longer shackle in the rear. Another thing to think of with a SRS is the front driveshaft. If your springs are really flexy, the stock slip won't be long enough. My stock shaft would either bottom out, or over extend and come apart after the SRS. I had to have a custom long slip front driveshaft built ($375). It has about 16" of travel, I actually use about 8".

If you're looking for a complete SOA kit, I don't know of anybody who makes a complete kit. There are just too many variables. To get mine RIGHT, complete with shocks, mounts, brake lines, drive shafts, u-bolts, SRS, and high steer, I spent about $1500. That was on used YJ springs. After it was the way I wanted, I had Alcan spring build me custom spring packs for another $700.

Bob
tufcj

limpingalong
08-11-2004, 04:04 PM
Bob - thanks for that info...that was the start of what I was looking for.

You wouldn't happen to have the part numbers for what you used to do the SOA would you?

Any pics of the finished product?

Thanks,
Chip

CJ Shark
08-11-2004, 04:10 PM
Not to pimp my own stuff but have a looky here

http://www.mudslingerz.com/SOA.htm

And the ouboard stuff

http://www.mudslingerz.com/axel_buildup.htm

Currently I just finished building an outboard kit for a guy who owns a CJ here in Canada. the kit is a bolt on, but we made it so that he could just weld it if he wanted. I'll post the pics soon (probably friday)

jeepsr4ever
08-11-2004, 05:14 PM
:t:

limpingalong
08-11-2004, 07:33 PM
Shark - thanks for the links - it was the axle swap page that really answered my biggest question:

After running approx 10 years with everything
from 36 inch Super Swampers to 35 inch Boggers, I have finally decided
that they will not break..

In the end, I don't have to go to bigger axles right now. I like what you dod for the shackle reversal also. Have extra main eyes and I think I will use the same method...i.e. no need to purchase MORE reversal.

Did you have to do anything special on the driver side to get the mount in or is it just butt welded to the frame?

Did you have any problems once the shackle reversal was installed?

Thanks again!!
Chip

CJ Shark
08-11-2004, 08:28 PM
Just a couple things I should have mentioned about the diffs.

The 20 had 1 peice axels, and the 30 had the Warn converted hubs. I also had an axel truss on the rear diff. I think those three things ensured my diffs lasted.

I'm not sure what your asking about the drivers side? which mount?

limpingalong
08-11-2004, 08:32 PM
Sorry - what I meant was when you welded on the main eye hanger on the drivers side, the steering box is on the inside of the frame. Did you have to do anything to get around it or did you just weld under it?

It didn't hit the steering bracket?

CJ Shark
08-11-2004, 08:41 PM
I'm sorry i totally forgot about that :oops:

All we did was losen it and "tuck" it inside the bracket. It was weird, it was the perfect thickness to compensate for the "dip" the bracket does to the frame. I'm not sure why the bracket does that, or if they all do.......but it was an exact fit. There were even holes in the frame for the rear bracket to bolt into.

I'm thinking jeep did this on purpose for a reversal........thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

You can kinda see the "dip" in this pic.

http://www.mudslingerz.com/images/shackleweldedon.JPG

CJ Shark
08-11-2004, 08:44 PM
Another angle of the "dip"

http://www.mudslingerz.com/hangerwithspring.jpg[/url]

CJ Shark
08-11-2004, 08:49 PM
Oh sorry, forgot o answer your last question.

Did I have any problems after the install...........yes a very big one.



































My biggest problem was that I didn't do it 10 years ago #-o


You wont believe the difference in ride you get from a reversal.

tufcj
08-11-2004, 09:31 PM
I don't have any pictures web hosted so I can't post here, but PM me with and email addy, and I'll send some pics. I have space reserved for a personal web site, just haven't built it yet.

Bob.
tufcj

limpingalong
08-12-2004, 05:28 AM
Shark - thanks for the extra info and pics. I'll use your story and claim it as fact!

Bob - PM'd ya!

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