eight
01-23-2005, 08:42 PM
Figured some of yall would like this. A swap I did a few months back. The 435 used is from a dodge with a np203. Make sure it has the low 6.7:1 first gear, some had about 4:1. Its said the d300 will bolt directly to the np205 version.
The dodge 435 has the right output shaft size and spline count, and also the right indexing hole in the adapter for the 300. But the shaft was about 3/4" too long so I cut that off. After the splines, the shaft necks up bigger, and the d300 input was now bottoming on it, which necessitated a 3/16" spacer. The bolt pattern in the adapter was wrong so I had to redrill it, that cast steel drills real easy. Then it bolted up, plenty easy enough.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/pts1.jpg
Now to the engine end. The input shaft was ~2" too long, and the input bearing retainer too big. I went to my local transmission shop and traded them the dodge input shaft and bearing retainer and $15 for ford ones. The ford parts bolted right in to the dodge transmission. I used a novak pilot bushing just like one would when swapping in a ford transmission. I later found out that you are supposed to remove the factory pilot bushing. Since my transmission now had a ford bearing retainer, that part lined up in the jeep sr4 bellhousing, and I had to drill 4 new holes to bolt the transmission to it. The t4 and t5 bellhousing are the same, and a t176 one may work. One bolt hole is real close to the edge, and I had to use a 3/8" bolt, because the 1/2" I used on the others wouldn't have cleared. Also had to grind one side of the head of the 3/8" bolt off so it wouldn't hit the side of the bellhousing. I have no picture of this, so here's some fish.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/misc/fish4.jpg
Skid plate is made of 3/16" plate steel. I used a big ugly metal bending machine to put the 2" drop in it. Then I set it up in place and noticed that the transmission hung lower than the mount, so the skidplate hit it before the mount. A little persuasion from a 12 lb hammer got it to clear. There are 3, 1" bars run across it on the inside for support. Two just before and after the transmission mount, and one more at the back. I have also eliminated the torque arm. Skid plate bolts on from the side with 6, 3/8" bolts. I jacked the jeep up about a foot under the skid plate, and it did not bow. That little thing in the middle is a peice of 3/8" plate, it has two big holes in it for the trans mount bolt heads, and is there just to protect them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/4353.jpg
Had to do some cutting on the floor to make the clocked 300 fit. Didn't have to cut this big.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/4351.jpg
This combo is 2" longer than with the t4 but since my rear driveshaft was a little short and I raised the transmission up some, it still works. Extended the front one about 4".
The dodge 435 has the right output shaft size and spline count, and also the right indexing hole in the adapter for the 300. But the shaft was about 3/4" too long so I cut that off. After the splines, the shaft necks up bigger, and the d300 input was now bottoming on it, which necessitated a 3/16" spacer. The bolt pattern in the adapter was wrong so I had to redrill it, that cast steel drills real easy. Then it bolted up, plenty easy enough.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/pts1.jpg
Now to the engine end. The input shaft was ~2" too long, and the input bearing retainer too big. I went to my local transmission shop and traded them the dodge input shaft and bearing retainer and $15 for ford ones. The ford parts bolted right in to the dodge transmission. I used a novak pilot bushing just like one would when swapping in a ford transmission. I later found out that you are supposed to remove the factory pilot bushing. Since my transmission now had a ford bearing retainer, that part lined up in the jeep sr4 bellhousing, and I had to drill 4 new holes to bolt the transmission to it. The t4 and t5 bellhousing are the same, and a t176 one may work. One bolt hole is real close to the edge, and I had to use a 3/8" bolt, because the 1/2" I used on the others wouldn't have cleared. Also had to grind one side of the head of the 3/8" bolt off so it wouldn't hit the side of the bellhousing. I have no picture of this, so here's some fish.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/misc/fish4.jpg
Skid plate is made of 3/16" plate steel. I used a big ugly metal bending machine to put the 2" drop in it. Then I set it up in place and noticed that the transmission hung lower than the mount, so the skidplate hit it before the mount. A little persuasion from a 12 lb hammer got it to clear. There are 3, 1" bars run across it on the inside for support. Two just before and after the transmission mount, and one more at the back. I have also eliminated the torque arm. Skid plate bolts on from the side with 6, 3/8" bolts. I jacked the jeep up about a foot under the skid plate, and it did not bow. That little thing in the middle is a peice of 3/8" plate, it has two big holes in it for the trans mount bolt heads, and is there just to protect them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/4353.jpg
Had to do some cutting on the floor to make the clocked 300 fit. Didn't have to cut this big.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/4351.jpg
This combo is 2" longer than with the t4 but since my rear driveshaft was a little short and I raised the transmission up some, it still works. Extended the front one about 4".
