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Mudrat
01-26-2005, 12:28 PM
OK, first off I'm an idiot, so get over it. I've not ever dealt with axles at all. :oops:
I bought these on line from a guy in Upper Alabama. Advertised as Dana 44's from a late 80's Blazer. He had them under his CJ7 but was going to Rockwells and a 454 :shock:

Anyway, got'm, slid'm under the CJ and the rear perches matched up fine
The front was more difficult (as some of you may remember) due to the shackle reverse and outboarding issues with 3/8" frame plates - but the front is done and it LOOKS like a 44.
http://www.geocities.com/spencerhut/images/trk-under-front.jpg (mines cleaner, with a hi-steer though :oops: )

The rear however is round w/about a 10.5 ctr-ctr bolt pattern, 2-3/4 tubes and has 12 bolts in the cover, no C-clip, and 28 splines. The outter bearing end is a 4 bolt flange, with way different axle shafts than the AMC20. And this is supposed to be a Detroit with 4.56's. I'm having doubts on that too (Eaton?)!!!

http://members.cox.net/mudrat/85%20CJ/100_0868-A.JPG
Larger axle view (http://members.cox.net/mudrat/85%20CJ/100_0868.JPG)

Click for a different view (http://members.cox.net/mudrat/85%20CJ/100_0867.JPG)

It doesn't look like a Chevy 44??
http://www.geocities.com/spencerhut/images/trk_wms-01.jpg

The two rear shafts (old//spares)
http://members.cox.net/mudrat/85%20CJ/axle-shafts.JPG
http://members.cox.net/mudrat/85%20CJ/axle-shafts-2.JPG
http://members.cox.net/mudrat/85%20CJ/rear-diff-rt.JPG
http://members.cox.net/mudrat/85%20CJ/rear-diff-LT.JPG
No castings on the pumpkin or webs except the large N on top???

What the hell is it??? I've got to get parts and new front spare axles
Thanx

Mudrat

jeepsr4ever
01-26-2005, 12:42 PM
Rear is a AMC 20 or 23 depending on where your from its a full size jeep 20 and if the front is only 4 inches wider than it is from a full size jeep as well.

Mudrat
01-26-2005, 01:58 PM
Rear is a AMC 20 or 23 depending on where your from its a full size jeep 20 and if the front is only 4 inches wider than it is from a full size jeep as well.
Thanks, the 8) lied to me!!! rough measurements put it around a 59-60" WMS. Well at least I know what bearings and crap to buy now. But I AM going to look further into the front axle it came out at 63" WMS :(:

Thanks

Pat

tufcj
01-26-2005, 02:00 PM
The top pic is a 44. The second pic is an AMC20, the carrier is a Detroit locker. With the 6 on 5.5" pattern, I'd guess from a Wagoneer from the 80s. At that time they had an axle with the cast hub welded to the axle shaft, instead of the 2 piece axles like a CJ.

I believe the 3rd pic is the Chevy medium duty 14 bolt with the 9.5" ring gear, NOT a dana 44. It was used in some "heavy 1/2 ton" and 3/4 ton GM trucks in the early 90s. It still had a 6 on 5.5" pattern.

Bob
tufcj

Dusty
01-26-2005, 03:37 PM
3rd picture is a corporate 14 bolt with 30 spline 1.5" axle shafts and a 10.5" ring gear the medium duty looks like a watermelon where as corporate 14 bolt looks like a diamond with squared edges you are right about the bolt patterns and applications the corporate is a full float design with 8x6.5 pattern the semi float came as bob said in two variations 6 or 8 luf but is a semi float.... flanged axle. top picture is definately a d44. SOA i would be looking at a dodge or a chevy check the spindles if they are large bearing or small, if it is chevy and a dana 44 with small spindles and small bearings and internal hubs it came out of a 77 or earlier chevy if it is large bearing/spinle using the internal style hubs look to a dodge or J-truck.

Definately an AMC 20 out of a gagoneer or J-truck with one piece axles bobs right.

Mudrat
01-26-2005, 06:22 PM
OK, so the consensus is the round pumpkin (the second pic) is a Waggy AMC 20 (that one is mine) and it really is a Detroit in there.

So now I need the P/N or a source to get replacement bearings and seals and the one bearing retainer since it's missing.

Now on to the front end ... if the rear is a Waggy, the front may be too. Any web markings I shoule look for?
More to follow as I get time and sober up - I'm still pissed about being taken advantage of :(:

A nasty gram will be forwarded to the guy I got these from, maybe his conscience is still bothering him #-o

Thanks guys
Mudrat

fuzz401
01-26-2005, 06:39 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v153/fuzzgremlin/Picture1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v153/fuzzgremlin/Picture4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v153/fuzzgremlin/Picture3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v153/fuzzgremlin/Picture2.jpg

Mudrat
01-26-2005, 07:23 PM
Well CRAP Fuzz!!! This means I have to actually teak the axle aprt to match bearing/race numbers 8)

Cool, gotta do it anyway :t:

Best do it soon too I guess, got a deal running on a set of CTM U-joints ...

Pat

Dusty
01-27-2005, 10:17 AM
with it being a spring over housing itisnt a jeep front end.

As to CTM's remember you gotta goto alloys otherwise they will oblong stock axle ears.

sweet

jeepsr4ever
01-27-2005, 10:34 AM
Yes thats right it must be a chebby front maybe cut down

Dusty
01-27-2005, 11:58 AM
Cheby, dodge or Intertrashional

Mudrat
01-27-2005, 03:42 PM
Well I was told it was a Chebby, and it fits stock 85 Blaser brake calipers, so maybe I got the right font end??

Any web markings? Cause there isn't any.

Mudrat

tufcj
01-27-2005, 08:34 PM
Being SOA and 6 lug, I'd bet it's a Chevy, I don't think Dodge or IH used 6 lug axles. There should be a set of #s stamped on the front side of the long tube, just a few inches from the pumpkin (as long as they're not rusted off). Closest to the pumpkin will be a date code, followed by a 6 digit number, possibly followed by a -1 or -2 (like 610320-1). That would be your BOM (bill of material). From that, you could tell what year and vehicle the axle was built for.

Bob
tufcj

Mudrat
01-30-2005, 02:58 PM
with it being a spring over housing it isnt a jeep front end.

As to CTM's remember you gotta goto alloys otherwise they will oblong stock axle ears.

sweet
Maybe not :-|
Looking for the BOM today I didn't find one.
http://members.cox.net/b-ballangel/85s%20axles/No%20BOM.JPG

Also under the passenger perch, it looks like it was a spring under and a new perch welded on top

http://members.cox.net/b-ballangel/85s%20axles/frnt-pumpkin.JPG

And here's a couple shots or the knuckle ends ...

Driver:
http://members.cox.net/b-ballangel/85s%20axles/Drvr-knuckle-2.JPG

Pax:
http://members.cox.net/b-ballangel/85s%20axles/Pax-knuckle.JPG

Suggestions?

Mudrat

pyagid
01-30-2005, 04:57 PM
from all the pictures, i would guess wagoneer axles. Still a good set of axles, just not what you were told

wasnt MC under there? or was that just ripping out your old axles

-Paul

Mudrat
01-30-2005, 06:40 PM
from all the pictures, i would guess wagoneer axles. Still a good set of axles, just not what you were told

wasnt MC under there? or was that just ripping out your old axles

-Paul
Nah - he just did the ripout, they didn't get here until a week after he left. I was hoping to get them in before and swap them out while he was here, but ...

Question now is the inner axle lengths (without pulling'm) so I can get spares. I'm between 59 & 61" WMS. I've got those nasty looking shafts for the rear that the guy "said" fit - but with what else has happend, I'm not going to risk rebuilding them until I know for sure.

I guess when I get back from SDGO, I'll jerk the long shafts and measure. If it's a stock waggy rear the shafts will measure the same. The front, if it's the standard 4" reduction, they should also be available. But the short side shouldn't change in either case right. Right? Correct me if I'm wrong here...

Pat

jeepsr4ever
01-31-2005, 08:17 AM
those are mid eighties jeep axles mud.

OlyWaXj
02-09-2005, 09:53 PM
those are mid eighties jeep axles mud.
The rear is 80-86 and the front is 74-79.
I dont see what the big deal is their both good axles.
The M20 is stronger than a D44,its weak spot is the tubes spinning in the housing and only being able to go 4.88 gears.
OlyWa

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