SOA ?

[rollbar]

O.K. I did the SOA on the 8 & it only has the engine & tranny w/33's bolted to the frame, that's it.

Questions:

1. Shock bracket measurments,
Front: Center line bolt to center line bolt = 20".
Back: same measurments CL to CL but the length is only = 15".

What kind of shock is gonna help these tires etc., the distance seems to short! Maybe someone can chime in here.

2. My front shock is hitting the spring plate, I maybe able to cut the corner off or move the axle mount out towards the knuckle, has anyone had this problem.

Thanks,
RollBar

[tufcj]

When I did my SOA, I had to build shock mounts from scratch (almost). In the front I used a Wagoneer upper tower, then built a bracket that mounts a pin to the axle between the spring and knuckle. In the rear, I built a similar bracket to the front, mounted to the axle tube as close to the inside u-bolt as I could. To get more length, I added a crossmember above the axle, forward of the tank. I made it as close to the floorboard as I could. I canted the top of the shock toward the center, instead of leaning forward like stock. Without doing the rear mod, I couldn't find a Rancho 9000 shock (what I wanted) that would have enough travel and not bottom out. I also drilled several holes in the new crossmember, so I could move the top of the shock around fo the best adjustment.

I tried using the stock rear mounts first, but I had to hang the mount low on the axle to tilt the shock forward, then it became a rock catcher. It still wasn't low enough and one tore off when the shock bottomed out.

Turns out with my mods I ended up running a 9112 (I think) on all 4 corners. When building the mounts, I used a universal bolt on shock mount pin which comes with some Rancho shocks. A friend who works at a 4x4 shop had a box full of them that weren't used during installs (freebie). I always mount the pins in a front/rear orientation, so when the suspension flexes, the shock rotates on the pin. If you mount them between ears, or on side/side pins, the suspension can bind on the shocks, and you lose some travel.

Bob
tufcj

[rollbar]

1st off, thanks very much.

2nd, got pics?

3rd, That's my problem, I have the Sky Jacker shocks from a friend who gave me the Sky Jacker SOA springs & they R to long (just the shock housing is 15") so I need to relocate the the shocks etc. :(: I was hoping not to do this but I can't avoid it now.

Thanks again,
RollBar

[BRAD ARTHUR]

hey since your on the soa topic i have a few questions:

what did you do for steering -tierods and locations, are you running the stock dana 30?


did you have to lengthen your drive shafts?
\any suggestions or hints?
thanks
i am considering stock flat yj springs, soa
this is what i havenow,dana 30 amc 20,304,t-18,4" lift sua 9- 10 leaves heavy for the snow plow

[tufcj]

I have a Dana 44 front form a Chevy pickup (already designed SOA). I couldn't keep axles in the 30. I used flat top knuckles from a 77 Wagoneer, and "high steer" arms from Tri-County Gear. My front is cut down to 56", I used a factory Wagoneer tie rod and drag link that have been shortened about 5" and re-threaded.

Drive shafts HAD to be lengthened. I had to go CV in the rear to avoid vibration. Since I did a shackle reversal in the front at the same time, I had to have a long slip shaft built, the factory slip didn't have enough travel.

On factory YJ springs, SOA will still give you around 5.5-6" of lift. If you're going to continue to use the plow, it's probably NOT something you want to do. When SOA, wheelhop under load becomes a problem, plus SOA tends to flatten springs pretty quickly, even without the added weight of a plow. Be prepared to add a traction bar to the rear. You will have to fabricate shock mounts, and extend brake lines. High steer is the best option (you can use flat top knuckles on a Dana 30). If you opt for just a dropped pitman, the drag link WILL hit the right leaf spring when you turn right. DON'T go for one of those "S" shaped drag links, they turn without hitting, but do NOTHING to counter bump steer.

SOA may sound like cheap lift, but done right, with the cost of steering mods, two driveshafts, shocks, brake lines, spring pads, u-bolts, and shackle reversal (not required), mine ran close to $1800 (with free used YJ springs). I did the work myself, and it took lots of hours of fabrication.

Bob
tufcj

[eight]

What are you useing for axle end shock mounts now? Not just the stock one's that would now be on top of the springs? I raised my front upper shock mounts to about an inch higher than 82-86 mounts and put the lower mount at the center height of the axle tube. My springs are about 1.5" lift and I use 11" stroke BDS shocks. On the rear I used the stock upper mount and put the lower mount about at the centerline of the axle tube on front of it. Uses about an 8" travel shock, but only uses about 6" of that travel. They're kind of at an angle and when the axle goes down it comes forward and uses amazingly little shock travel as the jeep has about 42" of flex.

My first SOA used stock springs and axles with a drop pitman arm. Drag link hit only when turned hard right with right front drooped = not enough to worry about. Used stock driveshafts too but then I have long jeep. Did have to get longer shafts and crossover when I put the 1.5" lift springs on with d44/d60. Only way to do it semicheapishly is to keep it low, no lift springs, no shackle reversal, and no longer shackles.

[tufcj]

The shocks I have are Rancho 9112s I believe. They have over 12" of travel, and I use every bit of it. It will go over 1000 on a 23* ramp.

Look at the droop in this pic. Sorry it's a bit fuzzy.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v475/tufcj/Jeep/Burly2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v475/tufcj/Jeep/moab3.jpg

[rollbar]

Thanks U two, I'll see if I can get some mounts for the axle & weld them on while I get my FREE :lo1l: 3.73 gears installed.

[Lifted79CJ7]

I know that you are more interested in the lower mounts, but if the shocks you have are too long, you can use stock shock towers from a Ford F250. They are longer and easily bolt in place of your factory towers on the frame. I believe you have to drill one hole in the frame to get the bolt holes to line up.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/cj_shock_ext/

As for the bottoms, I haven't finished mine yet, either. Let me know what you come up with as I am interested as well......

[eight]

Ah, me put flex pic too

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/trips/DSCN0162b.jpg