Brake Help Please

[wolfe_man]

Have a 6? (Havent figured out year yet) scout with 73 wagoner drivetrain (power disk brakes along with booster and MC).

Issue is when i turn it full lock to the left the peddle goes to the floor and pumping doesnt seem to help. Any other time I have full peddle and great stopping power (Unless turned all way to left).

The MC is brand new (Did same thing with old one) and complete system bleed. I looked at all the brake hard/soft lines and slave cylinders and have no leaks at all. Soft lines still have plenty of slack in them when turned full lock.

Anyone have any ideas?? I'm all out at the moment

[jeepsr4ever]

Sounds like you may have some rust in your master cylinder...

[wolfe_man]

I dont think its the MC (It may be though) because the old one did it and I just put a new one on last night and it still does it. It does not do it when turning full lock to the right, only to the left and it is everytime. Other than that issue the thing stops on a dime.

[jeepsr4ever]

what about your proportioning valve?

[wolfe_man]

Hmm didnt think of that, Thanks.

I believe I have a spare one set aside I can put in.

[wolfe_man]

Welp, the proportioning valve did not help. I cannot find any leaks anyplace on the brake system.
Can a bad power booster act like this? My experiances with a bad power booster it either acted like manual brakes or it wouldnt release the brakes until i D/C the vacum line.
Any ideas apreciated, Thanks.

[tufcj]

My Jeep did that when I first built the 44 front. I put the shock mount too close to the caliper. When I turned left, the caliper hit the shock and pushed it to where it lifted the outside pad off the rotor. I moved the shock mount slightly, and cranked out the turning stop a little. All fixed.

Bob
tufcj

[wolfe_man]

Thank You,
I took a look and when turned full lock left the shock does hit the caliper (on right side) and press it in (full right has less then 1/8" so I'll adjust it also because I'm guessing when im acually moving it presses it in).

I will turn out the stop bolts and see if it helps. The beast already turns better and tighter circle than my ford focus so I dont think I'll notice much of a turning radius loss. How much space do you suggest from shock and caliper?

[tufcj]

As long as it doesn't touch, and you give it enough space for pad wear, you'll be OK. Be sure to check also when the spring is in full compression and droop, as that can change clearances.

Bob
tufcj

[wolfe_man]

Hey, wanted to say Thank You.

The PO had mounted the shocks on the "outside" of the shock brackets instead of in them. I cut them off and welded them to the top of the axle tube (dont know if its proper but rides like a dream and its doesnt hit the brake calipers, just have to move the motor up 18" so the diff doenst hit the starter on hard bumps..............).
I'm finding all sorts of mickey mouse crap like this the more I work on it, but thats half the fun of getting someone elses abandoned abortion project.

[tufcj]

Doesn't matter where you mount the shocks, as long as they don't bottom under compression, or over extend.

Maybe a lift kit or extended bump stops to stop the diff from hitting?

Glad I was able to help with the problem. That what places like this are for.

Bob
tufcj

[wolfe_man]

That would work but the proper thing is to move the motor up.
The PO put a scout 800 body on the wagoneer drivetrain after being tboned in the wagoneer. He mounted the motor lower than normal because he didnt want to modify the firewall.....I on the otherhand have no problem cutting the firewall to make it all fit properly. Just going to take some time before I get that far.