Headers or stock manifold?

[alex]

If I put headers on my amc 360,will this affect the way it will run?I am going to remove the air pump,cruise control,and the ac compressor.I am going to keep the stock carb .I currently have the engine on an engine stand and I was going to remove the stock exhaust manifolds because it looks like the prices on a cj v8 single exhaust from the manifolds back is not much cheaper than ordering headers and mufflers.I always wanted headers and duals on my cj but i dont want to damage the engine either.If i get the headers do you guys recomend inside frame or outside frame style for my 79 cj.I have'nt even tested this motor yet this is my junkyard special so far the plugs are all equally just carboned up.No heavy oil leakage on the engine.It had oil in it.I am going to remove the oil pan have it sanblasted then paint it.I just figure I better have an exhaust when I try starting it and while its running so my neighbors dont get po'd. thanks in advance for any info. :!:

[Lifted79CJ7]

Definitely inside frame headers - I ahd outside frame and bashed the crap out of them on the rocks everytime I went out. Be careful if you go something like headman - the don't work with automatics on the passenger side. Edelbrocks should work, though. I say go for it!

[alex]

sounds like a good idea,however i talked to a engineer at work and he told me I cant put headers on with a stock carb because I will burn my valves up or burn a hole in the piston.Now i dont what I should do.Does anyone run a stock 2 barrel carb with headers and have problems? :roll:

[ol' school power]

i talked to a engineer at work and he told me.....

And you fell for it and believed him?

Those that can, do.
Those who can't become engineers.

[jeepsr4ever]

Those that can, do.
Those who can't become engineers

:?: :?:


Yes you can run headers with a carb :t:

[alex]

:? Then the search is on!!I will be removing my stock exhaust manifolds while the engine is on the stand.This might sound stupid but I'll ask anyway.Should i put the engine in with the headers installed?I will have the front clip off the jeep when I put the engine in? :oops:

[Mudrat]

Should i put the engine in with the headers installed?I will have the front clip off the jeep when I put the engine in? :oops:
It'll be easier to mount them afterwards I think. With the motor swinging and having to CAREFULLY slide the entire assy into the fram might be a bit painful. You might remove the framehorns (motor mounts) and give it a try - but I always pull the fenders and grill and just lay the hood on the windshield - makes it MUCH easier.

Mudrat

[alex]

Ok.Thats what I figured also,but I was'nt 100 percent sure.Thanks for the advice :mrgreen:

[Dusty]

the doug thorley headers are hard to beat. tough, thicker flanges, inframe long tube headers..... they are small tubes though and they are a tri Y design so more or a torque tube thanothers ont eh market.

[CJ Shark]

Everything I would say has been said.

But for the love of Jeep, pay the extra money for the thicker flange header.

I didn't, and I change header gaskets almost as much as I change motor oil.

Cheaper is just that.......cheap.


PS anyone want a set of ceramic coated in frame headers. :razz:

[alex]

ok.I got it dont go cheap and buy thick flanged headers. :t:

[FSJer]

hey i have been looking around tryin to find some hald decent headers for a 360 in a FSJ, would you know the site address for those doug thorley headers?

[pyagid]

http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=/egnsearch.asp&N=400265

-Paul

[Goose]

Just a hint for those of us who got suckered and bought the thin flanged cheapies..next time you have to change the blown gaskets.. pull the headers off.. cut between each tube (seperate them) at the top get out you r grinder and clean up the ugly weld beads on the sealing surface. then buy a set of those locking header bolts and mr gaskets 5950 ultraseal gaskets.. and put it back together.. I was burning gaskets about every two weeks before.. now so far I am 6 months and no problems..

(oh and just a tip from your Uncle dumba$$ dont try to put the locking clips on the header bolts while its hot..)

[Mudrat]

(oh and just a tip from your Uncle dumba$$ dont try to put the locking clips on the header bolts while its hot..)
Sounds almost as good a a smashed thumb thread :-| Gotta be a story there somewhere #-o

[youdidwhat]

(oh and just a tip from your Uncle dumba$$ dont try to put the locking clips on the header bolts while its hot..)
Sounds almost as good a a smashed thumb thread :-| Gotta be a story there somewhere #-o

sonds more like he had to use a spatula to remove his hands. :!:

[Dusty]

http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/jeep_headers.html

[Goose]

Well the story goes like this, After fighting these headers I began to think crazy thoughts.. you know the "why does this only happen to me" kind of thoughts where you think maybe I have been bad and am being punished .. Well after the mod mentioned above and running the enigine then retightning the bolts my poor frazzled brains sez..(and I quote here)" hey maybe if you put the locking clips on when it's still hot they will stay tighter and not back out whne it's cooling down.." ok like I said my brain was in bonehead zone.. and it sounded reasonable..at the time.. for a few minutes anyway.. GAAAADanga those little clippy things get hot fast! 111!!!

[JeepGuy24]

Are the Tri-Ys really worth the 500 bucks? I'm just wondering if switching from stock is worth the expense. My only other consideration is the Edelbrock shortys. Any comments, suggestions, rantings?

[tufcj]

It really depends on what you're doing with it.

For the rock crawling I do, I run stock manifolds now after running headers for several years. At the low RPMs I 'wheel at, there's no noticable difference in power. The stock manifolds gave me more room for a custom exhaust that is tucked up very close to the engine and frame. Plus, I have to deal with local smog rules. I may go to the Edelbrock shorties some day (weren't available when I did my exhaust).

If you're revving it up, like mud bogs or maybe even towing, invest in the good headers. That's where they'll make a difference.

Just my $.02.

Bob
tufcj

[JeepGuy24]

Thanks for the advice. Mine is a daily driver Wagoneer, some towing (19' power boat), some sand (Hatteras). I need a new Y-pipe, so I'm trying to figure out what I should plan on replacing while I'm at it. Exhaust is about 4 yrs old (Middas/stock). I'm going to be flowing more air into the engine....time to get it out.

[tarior]

I have had to take every set of headers that I have ever gotten and weld around flange to tube joint and then gasket match them with a die grinder, I sure hope for the $ that the Edelbrock or Thorley headers fit without this. :roll:

[rollbar]

As for the Headman headers they do hit the pan w/a auto on the passenger side (Tf-999 that is).


Statement/Question:
I have a set of stock exhaust manifolds off of a 78' J-10 I was told that they will not work on a CJ since they do not bend down quick enough & that thet will hit the fire wall, is there any truth to this. I haven't installed the tub yet so I don't know if they will hit.

Thanks,
RollBar :-|

[Lifted79CJ7]

I have heard the same thing before, but I have no first hand experience. I think one of them fits and the other doesn't. I think it was the passenger side manifold that doesn't fit? :-|

[rollbar]

Hummmm, thanks.

Can anyone confirm this?

Can/if it is the passenger side can a 90* bend be added just after the manifold to make it work OR will it just not work?

Thanks,
RollBar

[Goose]

Well I took the passenger side Stock manifold off of my J-10 (1984)Left over after header install and replaced a cracked stocker on a 1977 CJ-5. As near as I could tell they were identical in all respects, everything bolted right back up..

So my guess is if they work on a 5 they will also work on a 7..

[Mudrat]

So my guess is if they work on a 5 they will also work on a 7..
I would give a definate maybe :wink: All things considered, the changes between a 5 and 7 were under the seats and location of the skid, so what's forward of that is interchangeable fenders, rad, round lights :shock: So as ling as you haven't changed anything with the engine mount locations should be good-to-go :t:

Mud

[rollbar]

thanks

[John C]

I used hedman in frame with my T-400 auto in my 83 CJ-7. they clear everything. Not even close to having contact with anything the entire length of the tube. But the flanges have to be the worst fitting pieces of junk I have ever seen. I installed Race-pro copper gaskets tourqed everything down, fired the ole' girl up and it sounded like 22rimfire bullets going off under the hood. Removed the hedders and found that the crush zones on the copper gaskets were in a lot of cases overlapping the exhaust port. No way to seal if there is nothing available to crush a gasket between. Did the whole cut the tie bar, grind, hammer, grind, hammer. but if the flange mounting holes don't allow the ports to line up there is only so much you can do. I run Hooker now and am O.K. with them. Seems to be a twin to the Hedman but the flanges line up much better.

[Goose]

Ohh I agree.. I would never buy the cheapies again.. This is definately one area where a few extra bucks prevents years aof aggravation...

[GADJIT98]

Not to be contrary, but my cheapie Hedmans are great..........

That said, it took about 4 hours of grinding on the intake and alot of work with a dial caliper to get it just right. Almost a year and no leaks!!!!!!!

If I had it to do over, I would have gone with a better quality, ceramic set up due to the fact that the "shipping paint" on the headmans burned off within about 2 hours.

Dave

[Mudrat]

That said, it took about 4 hours of grinding on the intake and alot of work with a dial caliper to get it just right. Almost a year and no leaks!!!!!!!

Dave
Ummm ...Gadjit????? Why would you grind the intake to fit an exhaust on a V8? :roll:

[GADJIT98]

LOL, guess that wouldnt make much sense now would it :oops:

I should have read the previous message & sig a little closer. I was referring to the 258 intake & headers being a few .000's different in thickness.

The HEDMAN solution was a series of tubes with keyways welded on......

My solution was the whole measure & grind method. It works great, but its a lot of work. One thing I am keenly aware of is the fact that grinding on a V8 intake will do absolutely nothing for header fitment :shock:

Dave

[Mudrat]

LOL, guess that wouldnt make much sense now would it :oops:

I should have read the previous message & sig a little closer. I was referring to the 258 intake & headers being a few .000's different in thickness.

The HEDMAN solution was a series of tubes with keyways welded on......

My solution was the whole measure & grind method. It works great, but its a lot of work. One thing I am keenly aware of is the fact that grinding on a V8 intake will do absolutely nothing for header fitment :shock:

Dave
Hehehehehe glad you woke up and smelled the fuel line :wink: The problem I have moving my Clifford stuff from the CJ to the YJ (both built 258's) is the headers and the kick-down for the daughter-child's auto-kick-down #-o

[tarior]

Without exception, I have had to take every set of headers I have ever bought and weld around the flange, and then gasket match them with a die grinder. I just assume buy cheap if I am going to have to spend a few hours making them fit anyhow.

[jeepsr4ever]

I have had very good luck with hedmans but I must point out that they are almost completely made for stock unported heads. They dont have much meat to be grinding away but you can always add metal.