Ronco magneto full oiling

[Blown7]

Hello all, this is my first post and introduce myself to you all, and my rig and to post a question. First I'm Jeff, my ride is a 78 CJ7, Matkins frame, 401 with a 6-71 blower, 8 PSI boost, 8.25-1 compression, Fel Pro bugcatcher with electronic FI, N2O, Reed cam, roller rockers, AMC performance oiling water injection with alky, A/C, Vertex mag, TH400 and Quadra Trac, Dana 44's F&R with a with my own design full floating rear. I've been restoring CJ's for 30 years so I needed the education and to design a full blown powerhouse. My question is as I was turning a new base for my Ronco mag on my lathe ( bought a SBC mag on ebay) I was wondering if anyone has ever used full pressure oil to lubricate the mag driveshaft bushings? I was going to tap off the oil galley and put a AN3 fitting in the base of the mag where the usual grease fitting is for the tach drive, I have already installed 4 bronze Ampco 18 bushings I made, the mag drive shaft is .495 dia I drilled a .531" clearance hole thru the custom magneto base I made to aid in oil flow, to all the bushings ( I could have installed the mag shaft with roller bearings but didn't feel like looking up and ordering any) I'm sealing the top bushing to the mag shaft with a o ring and at the bottom, I was going to either drill a cross hole at the bottom bushing to exhaust the oil or now I am contemplating cross drilling the shaft and the new Bulltear distrubutor gear I just ordered to put a oil bath right at the cam gear to distrubutor gear mesh. Any advice? BTW I am a aircraft mechanic, own my own aircraft repair shop with a full machine shop and welding/fab shop attached ( I was a Tool and Die maker for Pratt and Whitney Jet engines in a previous life) also fly my own Cessna 182 with a 300 hp conversion. Now aircraft engines are another story. Thanks to all in advance. Jeff

[Bendaman]

Welcome aboard, your project and jeep sound cool. A 401 with a 6-71
blower, Awesome :lo1l: :lo1l: Any pics?

[jeepsr4ever]

If you take from the oil galley's make sure its from the drivers side and in the far back. The mains are fed by the passenger side oil galley only (unless you've cross drilled the block) I guess the basic oiling rules apply when oiling a bearing or a bushing....do you have any pics of the bearing you want to oil

[pyagid]

sorry i cant help you with your questions, but i wanted to say welcome as well. Also where in CT are you located? I am from farmington

-Paul

[Lifted79CJ7]

I'm with MC, do you have any pics of the area that you want to modify? I'd also be interested in seeing the mag mount you made....

Killer sounding setup, btw.

Jack

[Blown7]

Thanks all for your replies, I live in Woodstock and my hanger is at the Southbridge Airport in Massachusetts. I will post some pics as soon as I can figure out how, I'm new to this kind of forum. Yes it is a killer set up actually I can't think of anything more to add, any opinions? Jeff

[Lifted79CJ7]

I am asuuming since you buld aircraft that welding aluminum is no problem for you, eh? 8) Yup, sounds killer for sure! So what intake did you use? Make your own? Make you own belt drive? If you email me the pics, I'll post them for ya. Is your Jeep at stock ride height? Are you able to run pump gas? And one final question, what cam did you use?
Jack
lifted79cj7@aol.com

[Blown7]

[quote="Lifted79CJ7"]I am asuuming since you buld aircraft that welding aluminum is no problem for you, eh? 8) Yup, sounds killer for sure! So what intake did you use? Make your own? Make you own belt drive? If you email me the pics, I'll post them for ya. Is your Jeep at stock ride height? Are you able to run pump gas? And one final question, what cam did you use?
Jack
lifted79cj7@aol.com[/quote
I quoted your reply so I can answer each question, yes I have a Miller synchrowave 250 TIG so welding is not a problem however we don't weld aircraft skins because the majority is 2024 and cannot be welded due to the high Copper content I weld repair mostly the exhaust which is 321 Stainless. I used a Blower Drive Service manifold basically because I didn't know where to start in the beginning now I'm fabing my first one using a stock Eldebrock torker. (Mill off the top of the manifold to the runners and then start welding the blower mounting plates.) The belt drive is a combo my design and a Dyers snout and adjuster (you just can't make a snout for the price Dyers charges) I used a 10.25" snout. 1/2" pitch belt underdriven about 6 percent. The lift I'm really not sure believe it or not, I used front Waggy springs I had on hand for the front, but they where Rough Country 6" lift, SUA outboarded with the Matkins outboarding option. The rear are Wagoneer standard front springs SOA. The front and rear axles are standard D44's from a 76 Quadra trac equipped Waggy. The rear I made full floating using Waggy front spindles and my own adapter plates. Caddy Eldorado brakes for the E brake feature. It sits high and I have no doubt I could stuff 38-44's under there. Maybe I'll try to build a 4 link but haven't educated myself enough yet. Yes I use 91-93 octaine with H2O injection when EGT gets over 1475 degrees I use a 8 point EGT engine analyser from aircraft to control the pumps and solonoids for the H2O,Alky, N2o (it has a warning circut that turns the system automatically)it has a two stage N2O that engerizes at 3000 RPM first stage controled by my Autometer Tach shift light circut and second stage at WOT (never got the chance yet to hold WOT for more than a few seconds even on 1 mile of runway) I saw a pic somewhere on this board of a CJ on the starting line of a dragstrip smoking the tires imagine that pic with no wheel spin, thats what I've got. Now for the cam, building a great engine revolves around the cam that is the first step to take find the mission profile you want, call the cam man and he designs and sets the criteria, my first and only call was to Reed Cams, IMHO they are the best, know AMC's from the early days of AMC powered NASCARS and I figured they been doing AMC's for over 40 years so they must be the king of AMC cams. The cam is not ground radically different from a stock grind, I can't remember the specs but if you want em I'll find the build sheet. The engine was never built to be a high revver, you don't need it with a blower the redline is around 6000, I tuned the engine originally in a 1984 Eagle Wagon I own I bought this car brand new in 84 now there was a go getter, ( not to digress but I have built several 304 powered Eagles and I think that should have been the perfect car/engine combo). The engine's never been dynoed but the math and my calculator says somewhere around 575 Hp at 4000 and around 550 ft lbs of torque,w/o N20 (almost as good as my airplane 235 HP at 2600 Rpm and 575 ft lbs of torque) with Nitrous stage two set for 250-300 hp more. the old AMC book says 220 HP @ 4200 I believe so I better than doubled the stock configuration, of course if you use the 71 numbers its 330 HP but that wasn't SAE horsepower that was in a open header, no accessory configuration (same engine both years just different configurations for the test) ok I'm tired so tomorrow I'll send you the pics Thank you for the pic posting service. Jeff