oil filter adapter questions

[Patf10]

I was looking at my oil filer adapter the other day and i have one with the bypass valve and i noticed that there are some circular scratches from the oil pump gears. they dont seem to be horrible. Are these problems?? and the bypass is it something i canplug or what i hear they can let unfiltered oil back in...doesnt sound good.

thanks

[jeepsr4ever]

You can plug the bypass yourself using a 82* degree cap screw. The scratches will affect your pumps efficiency slighty. You should re-surface the oil filter adaptor or pick up a new one.

[Patf10]

now to resurface can i do that like on a piece of glass and wet sand it down making sure its square. and im not sure what an 82 degree cap screw is...


thanks again

[AMX69PHATTY]

Since I've also been trying to understand all this Oil Pump stuff I made a sketch of the AMC V-8 Oil Pump System. :-|

Any comments or needed corrections would be appreciated.

SKETCH HAS BEEN CORRECTED / REVISED FROM ORIGINAL POST. #-o

http://mywebpage.netscape.com/SketchKT/AMC+V8+Oil+Pump+System+Sketch.jpg

:razz:

[jeepsr4ever]

Close but your drawing of the oil filter bypass is wrong. The bypass is setup to take the unfiltered oil and send it into the bearings.

[AMX69PHATTY]

I looked at an Oil Filter Adapter and the internal passages seem to connect the way the drawing shows ????

What I tried to show was Oil passes through the Filter Bypass Port,
goes around the cavity between the Face of the adapter above the filter
and the top of the inner face of the filter,
in a doughnut like shape around the central threaded filter mounting fitting,
and then out to the pump without passing through the filter itself,
which results in non-filtered oil being recirculated back to the engine. :-|

When blocking off the Filter Bypass:

The Head diameter of a 5/16 Flat Head is .65 inch and closely matches the diameter of the Bypass port.
Does one use a 5/16 thread 82 degree Flat Head Cap Screw to replace the stock Fiber Wafer ? ( NO, I don't believe after fixing Sketch )
and it's held in place by the stock wafer Spring ? ( Yes I believe )
and the screw should be pretty short, maybe 1/2 inch or less ? ( cut it off at the Back of the Head, goes in hole TAPER DOWN ? )
But it does go on top of the spring in place of the stock Fiber Wafer ?? ( NO )
not below, underneath the spring does it ?? ( Yes, it goes BELOW the Spring I believe )

This is a somewhat complicated thing and hard to put into words.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, experience, and secrets. :wink:

[tarior]

I tigged a piece of round stock into mine. :razz: :razz:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/tarior/PDRM0006.jpg

[Patf10]

so you just tigged that on and it covers the hole.. seems easy enough to get done. and for resurfacing can i sand it down with high grit paper?

[jeepsr4ever]

Your flow is in reverse :wink: Wish I had a good drawing system in front of me right now

[AMX69PHATTY]

Okay ....... hmmm ...... yeah I wondered about that.

************************************************** ******
SKETCH HAS BEEN CORRECTED / REVISED FROM ORIGINAL POST. #-o
What threw me was I'm suprised that Oil goes to the pump coming
directly from the pan aftre going threw Engine BEFORE being Filtered.
Doesn't seem like that would be good for the Pump Gears.

************************************************** ******

( Comments below were posted before changing the sketch )

Cause of the orientation of the Filter Bypass Spring and Wafer
in the sketch it seemd like it would to be like a "check valve"
but seemd to be positioned "backwards"
based on pressure differentials as represented in the sketch.

Logic was Oil from the Motor goes to the center inlet on the Filter.
If the Filter gets clogged, back pressure builds up, opens the Bypass,
and then the Oil from the motor would go through the Filter Bypass Port
rather than going through the center Filter inlet Port.
But this logic would mean the Wafer would need to be BELOW
the bypass spring rather than above it on the Filter side, where it is,
both in the sketch and on both Adapter Plates that I have.

So okay, yeah, I can see where I have something wrong in the sketch.
I got the Port designations from diagrams in my '69 Service Manual.
I'll have to look at it and the parts some more and see if I can get it right.

Is the Center hole on the Filter the INLET or the OUTLET ? ( must be the OUTLET) #-o :razz:
If the Center Filter hole is the Outlet, then the Filter holes
around the outside whould be INLETS, and if the filter clogged,
the Bypass Check Valve would open allowing unfiltered Oil
to go back to the engine, which reverses the flow as shown in the sketch.

Gonna go look at parts some more. Thanks :-|

[AMX69PHATTY]

SKETCH HAS BEEN CORRECTED / REVISED FROM ORIGINAL POST #-o

[tarior]

so you just tigged that on and it covers the hole.. seems easy enough to get done. and for resurfacing can i sand it down with high grit paper?
You'll have to forgive my terrible photography, it is welded on the back side, small enough that it fits the hole. I burnished it in order to insure that nothing would come off in the oil.

[AMX69PHATTY]

Okay I think I found out what had thrown me off.
One of the views in my '69 Service Manual has the Ports labeled WRONG !
#-o 111!!!
( I think, aint those two Oil FIlter Adapter Ports labeled wrong ? )
.................................................. .......:-|
What's lacking is a diagram or views showing the Tiiming Cover Ports.
Round Adapter Hole feeds Timing Cover Hole that feeds Upper Block Hole
and Upper Block Hole is Oil under pressure from Pump after passing through Filter.

http://mywebpage.netscape.com/SketchKT/AMC+Oil+System+Views+R1.jpg

[jeepsr4ever]

Yes your right they screwed that up in the picture. Cant trust everything in the mags