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jeepsr4ever
09-18-2006, 07:50 PM
1972 hornet BRIGHT dukes of hazzard orange. It is a 6cyl auto car but I will be giving her the treatment. I have a 9", decent cammed 360, 904 auto and some 10 wide rims for the rear all I am missing are some tires and time to get it together but the plan is to make a mild 12.50-13 second car and get a female driver :!: I will take some pics

FuzzFace2
09-18-2006, 08:26 PM
You going to join us straight line weed eaters with that hornet? 8) :t:
I don’t know how long that 904 will last with out some beefing up. May want to look for a 998, 999, 727 or a TH400. If me I would go with the 727 or TH400 and not worry about the trany again. Oh I run a TH400 in my 70 Javelin drag car with a 360.

Would like to hear more on the motor setup, ok twist my arm the hole car like street/strip or just strip, stall on converter, rear gear and we got to see pictures
Dave ----

tarior
09-18-2006, 09:27 PM
Fastback or coupe?

jeepsr4ever
09-19-2006, 07:30 AM
Its a 2 door coupe. I dont think they made fastbacks untill 74' Besides a postal jeep I havent gone down a strait line and thats been a long time. We will see if the ol reaction time is still good....old lady says it isnt but we will see :?: I hqve some really wild motor options if you can imagine but I will stay under 600hp for this car and get my feet wet again....after that its on like donkey kong :wink:

I am considering a couple of different builds

First build

Ford 9" 6.50 ratio
700r4
360 Low end cam with a blow through turbo for power below 4500rpm
291-c heads
R4b
650CFM (custom)

Second build

Ford 9" 5.40 ratio
904
360 With a .540/.540 lift
R4b
700CFM (custom)
Ported 090 heads

Third build

Ford 9" 4.56 ratio
904
401 3.850 stroked
Torker
800CFM (custom)
Ported 090 or ported Indy heads


I plan on some under drive pullies and a couple other mods to squeeze that crank. Like I said I will be starting off slow but we have the capability to build to 1100hp but I dont have the time to get a chassis prepped for it nor do I care to spend a ton on making it class legal. Should be fun and giggle worthy when its done for the first trials. We are doing the 360/ford 9" (W 4.10) in the next couple of weeks.

the 904's can be built to the hilt like any of their family and they take up less power to spin unlike the 727's and th400's...which are bnth great transmissions

BREK
09-19-2006, 08:35 AM
I like build #3 :lo1l:

tufcj
09-19-2006, 09:05 AM
Cool. I had a 73 hatchback w/360 auto (kind of an SC clone) back when I was in high school. My first AMC and first sleeper. It was very similar to build # 2. Had an AMC20 with 3.54 gears (most parts pirated from a wrecked V-8 Gremlin). Surprized a lot of Camaros and Mustangs.

Bob
tufcj

jeepsr4ever
09-19-2006, 10:38 AM
Bob that must have been a fun car

FuzzFace2
09-19-2006, 10:51 AM
I like #3 too with Indy sr heads.

#1 with the 700r4 low first gear & 6.50 I think would be too low even 4.56 I think would be too low. I had a GM 6.2 diesel (turbo) with the 700r4 and 4.10 30x10.5x15 tires and was good for towing (low first) and cruising (OD) don’t think you would use the OD at the track? Have you given any thought to the 200r4 they can be built too. Look at the turbo GN’s #1 would be a killer street/trail Jeep setup I would think tho


It’s funny that you would use the small cc (291) heads with a turbo and the bigger cc (090) on an NA motor. Again I don’t know what pistons you would be running with either one but thinking custom forged with all of them!

#2 with 5.40 gear (remember a 10” wide slick is about 28”-29” tall not 37”+ for Jeep tires) what will that be turning at the lights? At 8000 I come up with 128 mph and I think that does not count for converter slip! 4.56 gear@6500 is about 119 mph, 5.40@7700 is about 119 mph all with a 28” tire.
Run 4.56, Torker w/1” spacer (will it clear the hood?) & thinking a 750 carb.

“You say 360/9” (4.10)” Heck just a stock 360/auto/4.10 for a base I think would be a high 13 car. I know of a SC Hornet that is running high 13’s IIRC and I’m sure it’s a stock auto car.
I would say if you have the parts: 291 heads on a 360 stock lower end block, 292H*/.518 lift cam 2500-6500rpm (think it will fit with no machine work but check!), a beefy 904/3000-4000 stall, 4.10 would be a good base to start from too.

This is my opinion and you know what they say about them, they are like A** Holes every body has one!
If you want to play with some numbers for gears, tires, speed, RPM, ETC. try sites below
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/index.html
We’ll get you on the right track yet
Dave ----

jeepsr4ever
09-19-2006, 12:41 PM
I like #3 too with Indy sr heads.

#1 with the 700r4 low first gear & 6.50 I think would be too low even 4.56 I think would be too low. I had a GM 6.2 diesel (turbo) with the 700r4 and 4.10 30x10.5x15 tires and was good for towing (low first) and cruising (OD) don’t think you would use the OD at the track? Have you given any thought to the 200r4 they can be built too. Look at the turbo GN’s #1 would be a killer street/trail Jeep setup I would think tho


It’s funny that you would use the small cc (291) heads with a turbo and the bigger cc (090) on an NA motor. Again I don’t know what pistons you would be running with either one but thinking custom forged with all of them!

#2 with 5.40 gear (remember a 10” wide slick is about 28”-29” tall not 37”+ for Jeep tires) what will that be turning at the lights? At 8000 I come up with 128 mph and I think that does not count for converter slip! 4.56 gear@6500 is about 119 mph, 5.40@7700 is about 119 mph all with a 28” tire.
Run 4.56, Torker w/1” spacer (will it clear the hood?) & thinking a 750 carb.

“You say 360/9” (4.10)” Heck just a stock 360/auto/4.10 for a base I think would be a high 13 car. I know of a SC Hornet that is running high 13’s IIRC and I’m sure it’s a stock auto car.
I would say if you have the parts: 291 heads on a 360 stock lower end block, 292H*/.518 lift cam 2500-6500rpm (think it will fit with no machine work but check!), a beefy 904/3000-4000 stall, 4.10 would be a good base to start from too.

This is my opinion and you know what they say about them, they are like A** Holes every body has one!
If you want to play with some numbers for gears, tires, speed, RPM, ETC. try sites below
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/index.html
We’ll get you on the right track yet
Dave ----

I disagree with your outlook on #1. By the time you hit the OD you will be just above your power range with the cam we have picked out. It should hit very well. The reason I want to go to 291 is for ethanol and is more of a experiment with a small boost turbo. I dont have any hard feelings hitting 6500rpm with a OD. And those tires grip up like a 37-40" rock tire. Like I said we will start somewhere and go from there. This first build will be one for mid range only on ethanol

The second build I cant agree more with you about the ratio...its wrong wrong worng


I believe we will go from 12.5-13 in #1 with a few modifications to 10.5 for #2 and #3 not sure yet.... Whatever we end up with it will be fun and a learning experience. But we will see how far I can get before the snow flies

FuzzFace2
09-19-2006, 02:24 PM
Ok now I see where you are going with #1 combo “The unseen flame” :t:
I also did not think of that gear with the OD, my bad :oops:
Do they make a manual valve body for the 700r4 still think starting in first would be too low but second would work then 3rd & OD. I also could not get the WOT valve they sell for vets/birds to work right for my 700r4 so when I would give it a little more to climb a hill when towing “bang” out of OD!

Sound like a cool plan you have there keep us posted on it & please show pictures.
Dave ----

jeepsr4ever
09-19-2006, 03:17 PM
Well it will be interesting and I am sure if it doesnt work I may hear a couple of "I told you so's" around the shop :?:

KEV
09-20-2006, 05:50 AM
1972 hornet BRIGHT dukes of hazzard orange. It is a 6cyl auto car but I will be giving her the treatment. I have a 9", decent cammed 360, 904 auto and some 10 wide rims for the rear all I am missing are some tires and time to get it together but the plan is to make a mild 12.50-13 second car and get a female driver :!: I will take some pics

:t: =D>

Goose
09-20-2006, 07:48 AM
MC.. are you luring in unsuspecting women with free beer , 'wanna drive my race car and other underhanded tricks?



(Well hell if it works why change it?? :? 8) )

jeepsr4ever
09-20-2006, 07:57 AM
MC.. are you luring in unsuspecting women with free beer , 'wanna drive my race car and other underhanded tricks?



(Well hell if it works why change it?? :? 8) )

Ahaaa Yes my friend! :? Well two fo the racers who said they would have now declined

Holeshot
10-10-2006, 11:58 PM
800CFM is not enough!!! 850 should be min & even AMC suggested a 950CFM 3-bbl Holley & sold it together with the R4B under one part number for the set. I came across a nice 1050CFM 3-bbl for my R4b & scooped it up.

Why blow thru turbo?? The reported boost limit on a blow thru Holley is around 15psi (due to leakage), you can go 30 to 100 with draw thru!!! Also, with blow thru, if your throttle spring breaks (or otherwise sticks open), you will have the first AMC in orbit!! Other than that, the blow-thru method just seems to be bass-ackwards, like trying to get a horse buggy goin by pushing the rope. When pressurizing the carb inlet, you also are pressurizing all of the air bleeds, emulsion tubes, etc.

I have been looking at various ways to throttle body a draw thru system using an UltraRam bottom (IR) & think that using Holley base plates with all the ports plugged may work. Most of the aftermarket throttle bodies are at least $500 each & I need two for my 2x turbo/UltraRam plan. Should be good for around 1,200HP without revving past 6500. The knowledgeable AMC turbo builders STRONGLY advise to NOT use the 390/401 blocks due to thin cyl walls & the distortion that will occur. A 360 with minimal overbore (and O-ringed) was stated as OK. You should use the 390/401 crank & rods (or aftermarket forged units), of course. Which means you need a 4.020" piston with th 401 pin bore, not all that expensive for the custom JE thick-dome turbo pistons. And, of course, gapless rings. May as well add the extra head bolt per cylinder while we are at it. And go for grooved crank or bearings. And solid lifters with restricted oil feed so the bearings get high pressure. I plan to run the turbo's oil return lines thru separate oil coolers because that oil can get scorching hot. And if I cut the firewall & set the engine back about a foot I can add about 3 more quarts of capacity, get the pan off easily, and maybe drag the rear bumper a bit.

73hatch
03-24-2007, 08:49 AM
Holeshot: Log in to this site-http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?board=13.0
...and say blowthrough dont work over 15psi and drawthrough is the way to go...... You`ll probably feel like a BBQ chicken after the flaming ends :)

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