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Patf10
11-16-2006, 03:14 PM
I did a search and couldnt quite find what i was looking for. I have a 360 that is being or almost done being overhauled. My questoin is what oil filter should i use. My adapter does not have the pressure reliefe with the little plunger and spring. So what is the best type to used, i have heard bad things about frams. And what type of oil i have read that they like synthetics better, especially the seals. Id go with the bull tear stuff but its nice to get something right off the shelf. So any brand/type that you guys get good results out of?

Thanks
Pat

jeepsr4ever
11-16-2006, 04:15 PM
Wix/napa gold/Mobil

BREK
11-16-2006, 04:44 PM
Lately I have been using a k&n oil filter, and castrol 10W40

ironman_gq
11-17-2006, 12:28 AM
i used to use proflow but you canr find them anymore so i use microguard or napa

a440plus6
11-17-2006, 07:04 AM
I aways use Wix and Valvoline 30W for cam breakin, then I drain the oil and replace the filter with same but put Valvoline 10W 30W in and run that for first 500 miles so ring and things break in and seat properly. Then I stay with Wix but change to Mobil 1 full synthetic in the 0W 50W range.

AMX69PHATTY
11-17-2006, 02:15 PM
So should one NOT use just any ol' 10w40 to break in a "new" motor ?

Was there ever any determination if the GM "EOS" available from dealerships
should or should not be added to the oil for break-in ?
The label on the back says not to use it as an oil additive,
and instead talks about using it as an assembly lube
Wondered if this stuff puts back in the oil the stuff they've been takin' out
that's needed for flat tappet cam break in.

http://mywebpage.netscape.com/SketchKT/AMC+AMX+GM+Oil+Additive+No+1052367.jpg

Patf10
11-17-2006, 04:37 PM
thanks guys this is the exact info ive been looking for, is my plan for making seals last longer with synthetic legitimate

a440plus6
11-17-2006, 07:29 PM
Yes, after break in period.

fifesjeep
11-17-2006, 09:20 PM
I normally use Purolator or Mobile Oil Filters and Valvoline 20w50 Racing oil When it gets cold I'll drop it down to 10w40...
You should always use a thick oil for a "break-in" period... straight weight oil is perfect for this... prime the motor making sure oil is at the top of the motor and fire her up and run her.
If at all possible stay away from fram oil filters...
Wix is a good filter, K&N are awesome! Kinda pricey and chances are you have to order them (Which are normally a day away)... A ford oil filter is identical to a Purolator filter... Ford filters work with the Jeep I have.. 8) (Man, I hate to admit that)

Dusty
11-17-2006, 11:52 PM
Purolator/ mobile/ Wix / K&N filters and i only use Shell Rotella 15/40 same as my diesels

works good have no complaints oil is still golden at 3k-4k so im happy its not sludgy and black

Goose
11-18-2006, 08:49 AM
I use the napa gold filters.. and castrol (When i get some money I'll be trying the Bulltear Super oil.. until then)

mrtazwrench
11-18-2006, 10:11 PM
Purolator/ mobile/ Wix / K&N filters and i only use Shell Rotella 15/40 same as my diesels

works good have no complaints oil is still golden at 3k-4k so im happy its not sludgy and black
it's not rotella, but in my old wag I used the 15W40 semi-syn that gets used for diesels at work, seemed to work ok, then when I got my J20 I put in the bulltear oil, after I got some miles on the oil it started to use oil, topped off with the 15W40 at work and that seemed to stop, or at least slow down a lot 111!!! I'm not sure why that is, now I'm using the rest of the case of bulltear oil so I'll see how it goes this time. I've been using the NAPA gold filters.

Steve Obertanec
11-20-2006, 05:42 PM
Be careful of the oil you use for now on. The lovely government has taken zinc out of all "normal" oil. I guess it clogs cat. converters & the auto manufacturers were having problems with emissions warranty.

The deisel oils are good for break in but they are scheduled to remove the zinc from that in the spring.

Try going to www.amref.com & check out their racing oil. They have a break in oil available it is about $4.00 a quart & the "Green Oil" is the old Kendall GT racing oil. It is semi-synthetic & does have zinc in it & is only about $34.00 a case.

I am a dealer for this Brad Penn oil & use it in my 10 sec. Gremlin & have had great success using it. If anyone is interested in hearing more about the oil feel free to E-Mail me with any questions.

Steve Obertanec

ob3326@neo.rr.com

AMX69PHATTY
12-18-2006, 09:31 PM
Went to my local NAPA and got a couple gallons of Rotella T 15w40 motor oil
and a couple AMC NAPA Gold Oil Filters, Part #1258
So I guess this is the oil to use for new motor break-in ?
The motor oil that still has the zinc and stuff in it ?
That stuff was $10 a gallon

So these are the "short" Oil Filters ? Not the ones that are "longer" ?
Guess they don't make a NAPA Gold in the longer style for AMC's ?

I remember in the past when buying other brands of oil filters you could get the shorter one or the long one, which held about 1 quart, where the short one holds something less than 1 quart.

Anyone else know what I'm takin' about the 2 oil filter lengths ?
and NAPA Gold only comes in the short ?

Patf10
12-18-2006, 11:22 PM
well i got my engine back from the builder i has a short little filter on it its diameter isnt much bigger than the oil filter adapter itself

zero cool
12-19-2006, 08:18 AM
For break in, I made sure to start by assembling everything with assembly lube. Then I used a Non-Detergent 30 weight oil through the cam break in procedure. I did use a cheap filter knowing that I was only going to run the oil for a very short time and the durability issues of the cheap filter doesn't come into play. After cam break in, I'll use the Wix/Napa Gold/Mobile 1 filters exclusively. After break in, I switched to a regular (i.e. not synthetic) oil. I forget if it was 5W30 or 10W30, I have too many vehicles to remember off hand. At 500 miles on the break in, I'll drain and replace the oil again, this time with a good synthetic. I'll stay with synthetic for the life of the engine.

Steve Obertanec
12-19-2006, 06:24 PM
Phatty the napa # should be a 1049. Try it & see what you get. They are longer.

Patf10
12-19-2006, 06:59 PM
these numbers being listed for filters all good if you dont have the little bypass valve thing?

AMX69PHATTY
12-21-2006, 11:25 AM
Not sure, but I think all filters are ok with the new no by-pass adapter.

One thing to pay attention to is Anti-Drain Back feature.
Couple days ago bought 2 NAPA Gold AMC Oil Filters
but they were the short ones, #1258 which equals Fram #PH25.
Took'em back today to exchange for the long ones #1049 = Fram PH11.

The longer #1049's did NOT have the Anti-Drainback valve
which you can see in the top of the shorter #1258's.

So I kept the shorter #1258's since the have the drainback flapper.

Anyone else ever noticed this or am I going nuts ?

Patf10
01-29-2007, 02:52 PM
well i have had my engine goin for a while now and i am going to be heading home this week. Id like to get an oil change in im thinkin to go synthetic. i have heard alot of good out or mobil 1. what weight should i look into. im in erie PA so its cold alot. I read that a 10w40 is good in cold?

jeepin in maine
02-04-2007, 09:38 AM
i'm pretty confused by a few things.a little background first.i bought an 83 cj with what appears to be an 89 g-wag 360 in it.i ran it a few miles and it died. i pulled the dizzy,and found the cam gear and dist gear were stripped and it had jumped time.so i pulled another set of gears from a spare motor and was gonna fix it.first i wanted to find out what caused the gear failure.after disassembling the front half of my motor we found nothing that would have caused the failure.oil hole in cam gear lined up fine,no casting flash etc.so i decided to tear into the oil pump.disassembled the pump,clearances all looked good no gouges,burrs,nothing.pulled the relief plunger and spring..looked good.then i grabbed the oil filter.thunk thunk.wtf?so i cut the filter open and it looked like a crushed beer can inside.it had a bosch filter on it and the part number cross referenced to the napa 1258.so i go to napa...and ask for a filter for an 89 g-wag.they give me 1626.i tell him isn't it supposed to be a 1258?he says not for 89.so i installed the filter and fired her up.60 psi cold 25psi at 200 degrees with 5/30 in it.seems to be fine so far(about 45 minutes run time.then reading on here i see that everyone is recommending the 1258.then i read this in the sticky on filter adapters

"Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 7:27 pm Post subject: Oil filters - wrong one will fry engine

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don't forget that there are two distinct oil filter numbers as well, one US & one metric (guessing), if you use the wrong one, I hope your oil pressure light is working because you will soon be sucking air!!!

The metric ones have a caution sticker on the inner fenderwell warning of the possibility of using the wrong filter.

The vehicle I saw the sticker on was about a '90 Wagoneer type boat that the owner put the wrong filter on after putting in a salvage yard engine. Too bad he didn't hook up the idiot lights!!! He got to put yet another engine in after that."


now i'm really confused.is my 89 filter adapter different?whats the difference between napa gold 1258 and 1626?is using the 1258 type(bosch equivelent)filter on the 89 adapter what caused the other filter to fail and cause the gears to strip?this is a fairly healthy motor and i don't want to hurt it.can someone please school me on this whole deal?thanks in advance.jeremy

jeepin in maine
02-04-2007, 09:57 AM
so after a little research i found that the 83 360 calls for a 1258(anti drainback,13/16 16 thread).the 86 360 calls for a 1522 (13/16 16 thread).and an 89 360 calls for a 1626(anti drainback 20x1.50 mm thread).so how do i tell if my filter adapter is standard or metric?why does the 83 and 86 360 use a different filter with the same thread?could using the standard thread on a metric adapter cause this to happen to my engine even though there was no external leaks?i don't even wanna run this thing now :smile:

jeepsr4ever
02-04-2007, 10:07 AM
I dont think its 2 distinct filter changes for the 83 and 86 but I do believe Chrysler started using their metric filter stud in 1987. AMC oil filters were the same size and shape from 1967-1986 (Or one that fits one motor will fit all) ...hopefully that isnt confusing. I would look at a WIX or Napa gold for your next filter. Some of the off brand filters are being made by Fram and have such a tight filtering media that is collapses even if it has a bypass in it.

jeepin in maine
02-04-2007, 10:21 AM
i am running the napa gold now.my biggest concern is how to tell if my adapter is standard or metric.it had a standard 13/16 16 thread filter on it when i bought it,and i'm now running the metric filter since the motor and timing cover both are dated 89.

this is in the filer adapter sticky thread at the top:
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 7:27 pm Post subject: Oil filters - wrong one will fry engine

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don't forget that there are two distinct oil filter numbers as well, one US & one metric (guessing), if you use the wrong one, I hope your oil pressure light is working because you will soon be sucking air!!!

The metric ones have a caution sticker on the inner fenderwell warning of the possibility of using the wrong filter.

The vehicle I saw the sticker on was about a '90 Wagoneer type boat that the owner put the wrong filter on after putting in a salvage yard engine. Too bad he didn't hook up the idiot lights!!! He got to put yet another engine in after that.



could this be what my problem was?

jeepsr4ever
02-04-2007, 10:25 AM
he he he...no Oil doesnt travel from the pan through the filter and then to the pump. It travels to the pump then filter so you wont be "sucking air". Worst case scenario it that you have leaking between the stud and the oil filter. If your oil filter threads on there without having to drive it with a filter wrench then you should be fine.

jeepin in maine
02-04-2007, 10:33 AM
and its possible that the bosch filter media was to restrictive and caused the pump to turn too hard stripping the distributor and cam gear?

jeepsr4ever
02-04-2007, 10:36 AM
Yes and if you look on the bottom of the oil filter you probly have a oil filter without a oil filter bypass (good) Couple this type of oil filter adaptor and a poor choice of oil filter and it can collapse and without a bypass you will have stripped your distributor or camshaft gear.

seth gordon
03-15-2007, 08:10 PM
Recently an AMC hobbyist bought a bunch of filters and a hacksaw. His findings showed three really good filters: Hastings, Baldwin and Wix products; Napa gold is Wix and also Carquest, they have "Affinia" on the label. There were some other decent types such as Purolator. The local Alfa place sells only Baldwin filters.

As for oil, The type that I preferred was Valvoline fleet oil. It carried all the API ratings plus Cat & Mil-Spec.It is hard to locate and I remember only one viscocity: 15/40. For engine break in, a straight weight is considered best.

seth gordon
03-15-2007, 08:20 PM
Concerns over Zinc Phosphates can be addressed by using BG MOA ( motor oil additive). About $20 per can.

All new filters should have an internal bypass. That is why the factory was able to eliminate the passage in the filter pad;reports indicated it would open unnecessarily.

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