looking for engine set up ideas

[jeepcj7304]

i have a 85 cj with 35's at the moment it has a 304 with a crane cam and bored 30 over it is a daily driver and beaten hard on the weekends. you know how the story goes it had plenty of power but now im used to it. the front and rear main seals are starting to leak a little so im getting new ideas dont need a ton of power but more is etter looking for best options on reliability and price on a budget the wifes idea ya know. anyway keep the 304 put some nice heads on it bore it out a little more build the bottom end up or swap it out for a 360 if the 360 what are the best mods to get power with an even reliabiltiy thanks for your opinions

[jeepsr4ever]

Where in PA are you? We have lots on members from PA :t:

I would look to the 360 just the bore alone will add more power. You will find that a simple RV cam and a performer intake and good carb will give you alot of low end grunt. You can even deck the heads .020 and get close to 9-1 compression. Some simple head work and you could have a real fun motor!

[gschuld]

I agree with the 360 direction. If you do intend to pull your current motor, I would do the 360 for several reasons.

1-You can likely find a good solid used 360(used from 1971 thru 1990) that would be a good base for a few basic cheap mods for better power for the high bang for the buck option. (A happy wife IS a good thing, trust me)
2-If you intend to do a complete rebuild regardless, a 360 will likely be cheaper(better parts availability) and the 55 extra cubic inches makes a significant difference. The big valve 360/401 heads have much better flow potential as well.
3-Best of all, whatever you choose to do motor wise, I'd suggest starting with another motor(regardless of size) for the simple reason of no down time. Motor projects always seem to take longer to get done than we want them to...do you really want to go months without your beloved CJ on the road? I wouldn't.

If you are really considering the engine rebuild route, I would seriously consider spending some time and tracking down a reasonably priced 401 rebuildable core. The cost of rebuild will be the same. A full rebuild will likely cost upwards of $2500. At that point a few extra hundred for a 401 core instead of the cheaper 360 will offer some good things. Forged crank and rods, another 41 cubic inches(free torque), and the fact that 401's tend to add a bit to both your jeeps' value and your pride in running/having one.

304s are great motors, I ran two different dead stock 304s in my 76' CJ5, Dana 44, T-18, 33 BFG, 4.10 geared toy and it ran great. It weighs a shade over 3100lbs. so it doesn't take much to get it movin'. I've been running a rebuilt 360 that I got cheap for the last 10yrs or so now, basic edelbrock performer cam, lifter, spring, intake, etc on an otherwise stock low comp cast piston rebuild. The 304 was plenty really but the 360 is a whole different experience...insert grin. I have a perfect early 390, and 2 401 motor cores and I am trying to resist the urge to build one of the 401s for the CJ. It's working so far, but the instant the 360 shows signs of getting tired....

Good luck either way

George

[jeepcj7304]

im in gettysburg pa by the way i think i will most likely go with the 360 im afraid with the 401 i will be putting to much torque to the ground and starting breaking axles. im sure the 360 will already test teh limits on some components. next question what year 360 are a dirrect bolt in for my 304 to the trans it is a tf999 any certain oiling system upgrades i shuld do also? i do plan on getting a 360 and build it slow and then put it in im in no hurry plus my wife wants me to do some engine work to her 95 mustang so we need to wrestle over the mon

[dbesade]

2-If you intend to do a complete rebuild regardless, a 360 will likely be cheaper(better parts availability) and the 55 extra cubic inches makes a significant difference. The big valve 360/401 heads have much better flow potential as well.


This is the only part of your comment that I disagree with. Parts availability is not an issue for the 304, no there is no aluminum heads, but the small bore prevents for the most part any 360/401 heads from being used and the stock 304 heads will flow well past what most 304's will ever use. A stock rebuild on a 304 will cost no more to rebuild than it would for a 360, especially if the bottom end is left stock.

Pretty sure some others could shed some light on rebuild pricing with some numbers.

-Dave

[jeepsr4ever]

Sure Dave $43,543,722,846.23 :?:

[dbesade]

Sure Dave $43,543,722,846.23 :?:

At this point in the day that wouldn't surprise me :razz:


-DaveIts been a long day already

[Goose]

Wow thats the new Hyper-tutonic atom smasher gold plated double bling rebuild...you know the one that makes eleventy thousand horsepower at 97000 rpm on two teaspoonfulls of fuel a week.. oh and it must include the torque sensitive g meter that keeps you from acheiving orbital velocity.. :!: :!: :roll:

[jeepsr4ever]

:?:

[ironman_gq]

I got one of them but my torque sensitive g-meter quit and it is currently in low orbit around the moon :(: :razz:

[Patf10]

well i just went from a 258 with a clifford performance 4.0 head concersion to a 360. The 360 is running .030 over, RV style cam, performer intake and a edelbrock carb. The power difference is amazing. I would think with having the 304 you will see smimilar results. id go to a 360, i dont think you will regret it, and its a bolt in deal

[jeepcj7304]

i am running a 304 bored 30 over and it has a crane rv cam edelbrock intake 4 barrel edelbrock carb carb spacer fenderwell headers with 12 inch glass packs with tips onthe end of them im also running it on the gm hei conversion wich is much more worry free than the old dist/icu/coil i almost bought a wagoneer 88 with 360 for 300 but thew vehicle sold before i got to it bummer