Need help picking parts for my 401

[Ghinmi]

Hi guys, I'm looking for a little help choosing the parts for my 401 build. It's going into a 100% street driven '76 Wagoneer that I'd like to have some fun with. I don't use it for transportation, I just drive it for fun and hotrodding around (well, at least I try with the 360). I don't do any towing or anything like that either. I'd like to build a motor so I can bring it out to the track and have a some fun out on the streets. I've been playing around with different engine setups in desktop dyno but I honestly really don't know what kind of curves I need. I can select a combination that is constant at 450 lb/ft from 2000 to 4000 but then drops off and gets me 375hp at 5000 rpm, or I can make setups that start out lower at like 350 lb/ft but develop 400hp at 5500 rpm. Which end of the spectrum should I be looking at for this heavy wagon? Any suggestions for a good cam? I am having some mild porting done on the heads and have 3.54 gears and 28" tires if that makes any difference. Also, should I run a performer or an air gap on this thing? How does the offy q-jet intake compare? I'm looking for 9.5:1 compression if I can find a decent set of forged pistons in .020 over. Does anyone know who makes them and where I can get a set? Thanks in advance for any help!

Greg

[AMX69PHATTY]

2000 Badger Piston Catalog shows cast 401 Pistons in +.020
Part Number P894, .300 deep dish top, 1.495 Comp Ht, 8.5 CR

[Ghinmi]

Thanks man, but I'd really like to find a forged set with a little higher compression.

[Ghinmi]

How about these Speed Pro's? What compression will I get and are they any good? I'm using later model heads by the way.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRW%2DL2380F30&N=700+4294925232+115&autoview=sku

Where can you get Ross pistons anymore? No one seems to have them.

[AMX69PHATTY]

With the 27.50cc dish in the Speed-Pro's and 58cc heads it looks like about 9.5:1 CR.

They may have Ross Pistons at http://performanceamstyle.com/

Before, Ross was made to order and took about 3 months to get.

[Ghinmi]

Just got off the phone with the engine builder. He was thinking that those pistons would be the way to go. He also recommended the Comp Cams XE256. Does this sound like a good setup? Final question: He said it was going to cost $3300 to build the motor which includes pretty much everything except the intake and carb. Does this sound like a decent price to you guys?

[1980_Cj7]

We just built our first 401 so let me share some of our experiences with you. We had some big time problems due to the machine shop installing the timing gear wrong on the cam, and as a result have to completely redo the engine. The shop admitted responsibility and is picking up the tab, but we are doing a couple things different this time around due to some things we learned here since the first build. We are far from experts, there are much more knowledgeable folks in here, but here's what we found:

1. Be careful with going too high on the compression ratio if you intend to use pump gas. Learn about static and dynamic compression ratios. You want no higher than 8:1 dynamic if you want it to work on pump gas. The combination of piston AND cam choices determine dynamic CR.
2. Forged pistons have some down sides. They expand and contract more than cast or hypereutectic pistons, and as a result require larger piston to bore clearances, and the engine must be warmed up good before putting any load on it. We've been told the hypereutectics are the best of both worlds for other than all out racing, and are using Keith Black Silvolite hypereutectics this time around.
3. Make sure you have the proper piston to head clearance to guarantee good quench. Ours was off the first time due to the pistons (Ross 9.8:1 forged) not having the proper compression height, and the machine shop not decking the block to make up for it. By the way, we got Ross pistons from Fast Engine Parts/Maddog Racing. Don't know if they are still available or not. AMC 401 pistons don't show up on Ross' web page.
4. The rod bearings available these days no longer have holes to let oil to the squirter holes in the rods. Some say they aren't needed, but we are going to make our own holes this time around to play it safe.
5. Make sure your oil pump cavity on the timing cover isn't worn. If it is, you need a whole new timing cover.
6. Make sure your cam has oil relief holes in the rear journal, and a groove the whole way around the front journal, or if not, that the front cam bearing does.
7. Make sure the oil route from the front cam journal thru the timing gear, fuel pump eccentric, and distributor drive gear, is clear and open.
8. Always replace the distributor gears as a pair, never just one half.
9. Consider doing the lifter valley oil line mod. There are mixed feelings and lots of debate on whether it is needed or not, but I don't think it can hurt anything.

Best of luck on your build. That price looks right in line with what ours cost. Hope yours goes better than our first one did though.

That's the main things I can think of. How'd I do guys? Am I learnin'???

[Blown7]

We just built our first 401 so let me share some of our experiences with you. We had some big time problems due to the machine shop installing the timing gear wrong on the cam, and as a result have to completely redo the engine. The shop admitted responsibility and is picking up the tab, but we are doing a couple things different this time around due to some things we learned here since the first build. We are far from experts, there are much more knowledgeable folks in here, but here's what we found:

1. Be careful with going too high on the compression ratio if you intend to use pump gas. Learn about static and dynamic compression ratios. You want no higher than 8:1 dynamic if you want it to work on pump gas. The combination of piston AND cam choices determine dynamic CR.
2. Forged pistons have some down sides. They expand and contract more than cast or hypereutectic pistons, and as a result require larger piston to bore clearances, and the engine must be warmed up good before putting any load on it. We've been told the hypereutectics are the best of both worlds for other than all out racing, and are using Keith Black Silvolite hypereutectics this time around.
3. Make sure you have the proper piston to head clearance to guarantee good quench. Ours was off the first time due to the pistons (Ross 9.8:1 forged) not having the proper compression height, and the machine shop not decking the block to make up for it. By the way, we got Ross pistons from Fast Engine Parts/Maddog Racing. Don't know if they are still available or not. AMC 401 pistons don't show up on Ross' web page.
4. The rod bearings available these days no longer have holes to let oil to the squirter holes in the rods. Some say they aren't needed, but we are going to make our own holes this time around to play it safe.
5. Make sure your oil pump cavity on the timing cover isn't worn. If it is, you need a whole new timing cover.
6. Make sure your cam has oil relief holes in the rear journal, and a groove the whole way around the front journal, or if not, that the front cam bearing does.
7. Make sure the oil route from the front cam journal thru the timing gear, fuel pump eccentric, and distributor drive gear, is clear and open.
8. Always replace the distributor gears as a pair, never just one half.
9. Consider doing the lifter valley oil line mod. There are mixed feelings and lots of debate on whether it is needed or not, but I don't think it can hurt anything.

Best of luck on your build. That price looks right in line with what ours cost. Hope yours goes better than our first one did though.

That's the main things I can think of. How'd I do guys? Am I learnin'???

Yep :t:

Jeff

[Goose]

Ahhh Grasshopper! You perform excellently!!
as a reward, You may have Saki with riceball tonight.. :t: :!:






(Some days I am just so stinkin funny!!..other days just stinkin.)

[1980_Cj7]

I've been told I'm a quick learner, but then I had good teachers too, Master Po!

Here's to all of you [raising bottle of sake]. BANZAI!