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mike4089
09-27-2007, 06:48 PM
well my intake gasket was leaking so i pulled the intke today to replace it...didnt find anything very unusual but i want to replace it and know it wont ever leak again....are there any tricks or something that i should make sure that i do other then silicone the hell out of the gasket around the coolant holes....


or should i be wating and buying the intake gasket they sell here in the e-store??? is it that much better then i gasket from Orielly's

ironman_gq
09-27-2007, 09:04 PM
put a very thin coat of silicone around all the ports outside the sealing ring so that it doesn't squeeze into the ports and make sure to torque to the right setting and in the right pattern. after going around once let it sit for a few minutes and retorque. also make sure your intake isn't warped

Rhinolined360
09-27-2007, 09:04 PM
Valley Gaskets sold at Napa or whatever store are fine, i lightly put it on with RTV, none on the end gaskets they always popped out, though i did the corners with rtv, I would prebend the new gasket, it might take a couple of trys, then a couple more, I put on a edelbrock performer intake, and It took almost 2 days of experimenting.

1980_Cj7
09-28-2007, 05:30 AM
Rhinolined360 makes a VERY good point. Make sure you bend and fit the valley pan BEFORE applying any sealants. If you did the valley oil by-pass mod, this is even more important. In that case actually put the intake on and make sure it seats.

I gunked up both sides of a valley pan once with sealants, only to find out the oil line was holding it up when I went to install the intake. I ended up chucking that gasket and having to shell out $30 for a new one due to the sealants setting up before I could straighten out the clearance issue.

I use Hylomar around the intake ports, and Permatex Right Stuff around the exhaust ports, bolt holes, and across the front and back ends of the block (instead of the rubber gaskets).

Rhinolined360
09-28-2007, 08:29 PM
I may of ditched the end rubber gaskets too

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