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happyhoppy
01-20-2008, 09:48 PM
Building an AMC 401 from scratch and although I'm pretty sure what I'm doing is O.K. but there may be some other options and would appreciate any input.

So Far:

AMC 401 Block honed at standard, tanked, magnafluxed.

Forged crankshaft @ turned .010 under on rods and mains

Melling MTA-1 camshaft .478 lift (vs .448 stock)

Edelbrock Performer Intake (slightly used) and 1405 600 cfm carb, manual choke - brand new

New standard cast pistons, moly rings

Harmonic balancer sent to Damper Doctor for rebuild ($60.00) and balancing when it gets back.

Stock dogleg exhaust manifolds unless I find inframe headers at a good price

Where I'm at:
Going to purchase Bulltear Timing Cover

1979 AMC 360 cylinder heads being rebuilt at NAPA but I've come across some 6291-c heads.

With this setup is there anything I should investigate or do before going with the higher compression heads?


Project to be done by June 1st -

1979 CJ7, Used fiberglass tub, one piece front end, steel windshield. 1992 Dodge Dana 60 8 lug full float rear, 4.11:1 open carrier with disk brakes, 1976 Eldorado calipers. Shortened to AMC widetrack width (Need to fab some caliper brackets)
Dodge Dana 44 front 8 lug 4.11:1 disk brakes, Knuckles out. Planned using outers on Wagoneer front Dana 44 but seeing problems. I don't want to go spring over and I'm trying to figure out how to do it, differential is to far over for spring pads. Looking for the right length Chev front Dana 44's that can be shortened. (Can get this done cheap)

AMC TH400 Dana 20 with B&M shifter, 2000 rpm stall converter. Learning what can be done with this as far as a shift kit and other upgrades.


Like to hear any input on any problems or if there is a better way to build this.

One last question - is it illegal to paint engine Chrysler Blue instead of AMC Blue?

jeepsr4ever
01-20-2008, 10:58 PM
Your going to have a torque monster thats for sure! I would run the higher comp heads...you will gain a littel bit of compression which will help the low end considerably. I dont htink you neccesarily need a stall converter but at that low rpm it should handle well. Also ruff stuff products makes the dana 60 claipers for running 15" brakes I believe. I would run the manifolds for the low end as well.

happyhoppy
01-21-2008, 04:08 AM
Thanks for the reply. I may worry to much but if my lift is .030 higher will I need different valve springs , especially with these heads?

dan58
01-21-2008, 07:15 AM
What is your desired tire size? I assume 35" range if you're staying spring under? Most axle swap kits are done via SOA.
With the cost of cutting something down, and doing all that work, it's not really worth it.

A better option is to leave both axles full width. Get yourself a set of H2 aluminium wheels. They're cheap, 17", clear your brakes, and have 5.5" backspacing. It's not much wider than the stock waggy with ~3.5" backspacing. It sure will save you a lot of coin and frustration.

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