360 power adding

[orange sunkiss]

hello i am new here and would like to know some stuff about my next install on my 360
wich are your recomendation while i install my part and wath should i watch for,
do i really need the oil bypass or it fine since i dont rev my engine very much as i let the jeep crawl most of the time,
i run 10w 40 amsoil in it and my oil pressure is just like a new engine

[orange sunkiss]

here are the parts that myb62 year old mecanic is going to install on thursday
headman fenderwell header
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/tj015.jpg
muffler kit
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/tj012.jpg
double timing chain
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/tj014.jpg
camshaft
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/tj006.jpg
valve spring to match cam
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/tj013.jpg
dome
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/tj007.jpg
carb to match dome 650 cfm
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/tj009.jpg
mallory hei ignition
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/tj008.jpg
msd wire
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/tj010.jpg

[orange sunkiss]

and here is my junk
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e60/zugujo87/summer08004.jpg

[tufcj]

Welcome to Bulltear.

Same setup as my CJ used to have. The only difference is I have the 1970 hi compression heads. With 4.27 gears and 35" tires, detroits in both ends, I could spin all 4 at idle while crawling. I had to go back to stock exhaust due to smog checks, and added EFI (Howell) a while back. Didn't change much except that it even runs upside down now (don't ask :shock: ).

Looks like the start of a great setup to me, but those Purple Hornies will get real old if you do any road trips.

Bob
tufcj

[orange sunkiss]

thank for the welcome , fortunatly for me there is no smog as of yet here, i run 42 tsl , 5.13 gear and two dana 61, lockrigth front and rear, and a tf 727 with a dana 300

any idea wath kind of hp this set up should crank out?

[Ibby]

...those Purple Hornies will get real old if you do any road trips.

I second that. I have a pair of Cherry Bombs on my 304 that I put in about a year ago. It's not so bad with the hardtop on, but when I took it off I had to add an amp and sub to the stereo ;)

[tufcj]

Stock compression and no port work to the heads, somewhere around 275-300, maybe a little more if the carb jetting and ignition curve are spot on.

Bob
tufcj

[orange sunkiss]

thanks , so 275 to 300 that should be plenty with my 5.13 jeez

[tufcj]

What trans and t-case are you running?

For crawling, you're not really after HP, you're looking for torque. You could do the job with a 4 cylinder if you're geared right. HP makes top speed, torque gets you off the line.

My CJ has a T-18, dana 300 and 4.27 gears. That gives me about a 70:1 crawl ratio. I have 4.88s on the shelf to go with my 37s, which will move me to about 80:1.

Bob
tufcj

[orange sunkiss]

running a tf 727 and a dana 300, axle are dana 61 with 5.13 gears and the tire are 42, dont know my crawl ratio , she is fairly slow and she rev high on the higway

[dan58]

For rockcrawling, I'd really consider going with a 4:1 kit. I run 5.38s, a 4:1 in the D300, TF999, 360, and 39s. It's just about dead perfect for hardcore rockcrawling.

[AMX69PHATTY]

"do i really need the oil bypass or it fine since i dont rev my engine very much
as i let the jeep crawl most of the time, i run 10w 40 amsoil in it
and my oil pressure is just like a new engine"

Guess no one has answered this original question.

Opinions seem to be no need to do it for low rpms.
Opinions seem to be an increased capacity oil pan is ""better" or
just run an additonal quart of oil, "overfilled", in the stock pan.
More options are cam bearings with smaller holes,
pushrods with smaller oil holes, check them thouroughly before use,
some even modify and drill the blocks to oil cam after the mains
and I think install cam bearings so they block off the original oil feed holes.
But for low rpm operation, probably just run 1 quart extra in the stock pan would be "enough".
Understanding is oil problems stem from pumping the pan dry due to poor drainback.
Believe it was the first SS/AMX bulletin from AMC that advised
that the stock pan be deepened and the pick-up extended.
But this was for drag racing and higher rpm usage.
There are a number of mods that can be done to improve oil drain-back.
Deburr all oil drain-back openings in the lifter valley,
some kind of mod to the inside of the lower area of the timing cover,
maybe slightly enlarge the drain-back holes in the heads,
healthy chamfering of the 2 large holes in the block's front face,
even drilling a number of small holes between the lifters in the valley.
Many here are much more experienced and knowledgable than I.

http://home.fuse.net/ckthomas/AMC-Oil-Valley-Drill-Holes.jpg

:idea:

[orange sunkiss]

thanks