Headbolt question.

[CJim7]

Just got my 401 back from the shop (shortblocked) and it's been well over a year since I worked on this thing. :roll:

Do I need to use thread sealer or equivelant on any of the head bolts? I cant remember from when i dissasembled it whether or not water jackets are involved under any of the bolts. :-|

Also, everytime I've had it apart, I always replaced the valley pan with a new one when I reinstall the intake manifold. Question is, is it neccesarily required? One of the locals here at the shop (who knows AMC) says he skips the valley pan and uses a formed gasket (which I hadnt heard of) between the ports on the manifold and heads. any thoughts on this?

[ironman_gq]

Im not sure about the headbolts but I didnt use any on mine and havent had any problems. I cant see how using it anyway would hurt. as for the intake I would keep the valleypan unless you are using an intake without an exhaust crossover and a baffle or no pcv port. without the the pan oil will find its way out of your pcv port and make a mess. if you plug the port and move it to the valve cover than you might get away with no valleypan

[tufcj]

All of the head bolt holes are blind, so no sealer needed.

The valley pan keeps oil off the bottom of the manifold (exhaust crossover) and out of the PCV system. Unless you block the crossover or re-route the PCV, I'd use the valley pan.

Some people re-use the pans successfully. For the $20 that the pan costs, is it really worth the aggravation to redo if it leaks? I coat around the intake ports with copper spray, around the water ports with gray or black RTV. A dab of RTV where the block meets the heads. I've always had good luck with the rubber end gaskets, some people delete them and just use RTV, but the block needs to be spotlessly clean.

Bob
tufcj

[CJim7]

Thanks for the feedback guys. :!:
I'll get me a valleypan and do what I've always done. I've never re-used one, and I dont think i want to risk it with an used one.

[AMX69PHATTY]

Agree the rubber end seals are OK, as long as the gap between the Intake Manifold and block surfaces is "correct" and not too small or too large from milling the block deck and/or heads or an aftermarket Intake that may not produce the correct gaps.

I always use the Valley Pan Gasket, as mentioned, to keep oil off the intake and prevent sucking oil out the PCV, and always also install the sheet metal PCV baffle on the bottom of the intake. MC has mentioned using the fiber type intake gaskets for a "better seal" along with a modified Valley Pan Gasket, but the thickness of the fiber gaskets does affect installed height and port alignment.

On the head bolts, have heard on some blocks in some years there may be a thru hole or two. Maybe use a flashlight and a piece of wire or something to try and determine if any of the head bolt holes go through into a water jacket or not to be sure. Isn't there some mention of using sealer on some head bolts on the paper insert that comes with the FelPro AMC Head Gaskets ? Just don't over do it on the sealer and create a hydrauic lock that would give incorrect torque reading.

Glad to hear the 401 short block is back "in-house" :t:

Merry Christmas huh ? :!:

[CJim7]

Checked them all with a flashlight, no thru holes.
And yes.....Merry Christmas! :!: