What headers for the CJ7 ( Pic's addded )

[LanceM]

What headers are you guys using on your 360 for your CJ7's, was looking for something short and cheap. Found some for a Wagoneer but not sure if they'll clear everthing, any thoughts?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/99250/10002/-1?parentProductId=744779

thanks

[jeepsr4ever]

Hedman are fine but you will need to take a die grinder and match the ports if you want performance.

[msalaba]

Depends if you have a manual transmission. When I swapped a 360 from a waggy in my CJ5 the exhaust port ran into my trans linkage. I had to buy a CJ manifold.

Edelbrock is the only one I know that makes a CJ shorty header. The outlets are in the factory manifold locations.

Edelbrock CJ Shorty Headers @ Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-65913/?rtype=10)

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/edl-65913_w.jpg

I had a set of hedman fenderwell exits on it and a couple of primaries rusted through at the collector. They also liked to leak at the head flange.

My $0.02

[tufcj]

Short and cheap just isn't going to happen. :smile: :smile:

If you aren't building a mud bogger or something that needs to rev sky-high, stick with the factory manifolds and a good 2.5" or 3" exhaust system. I'm running a 3" single system with a high flow cat and magnaflow muffler on my CJ. It actually has a bit more low end torque than headers, I do see a little drop over 5000 RPM, but I seldom run at that RPM. Mine was custom made so the only place it drops below the frame rail is at the rear tip.

Like said above, I think Edelbrock is the only company making shorties, and they run around $350. I've found in frame headers for the CJ hang too low, and tend to catch the collectors when 'wheeling. Fenderwell headers catch all the water and road grime from the front tires and tend to rot collectors. They also crack at the head if the mufflers aren't properly supported. The only good set of fenderwell headers I've had were "alumacoat" (can't remember the brand), but they were at least double the cost of a set of painted ones.

Bob
tufcj

[LanceM]

Thanks, the edelbrock shorties are out of the budget for my little toy. Ran Hookers fenderwell headers on the old 304 and was always catching and bending them over rocks, there cheap but don't want to go there again.

i have the factory manifolds and thought about running them but the driver side exhaust emptys right in to my clutch linkage, did some research and found the the 304 drivers side manifold will fix that but then found the jegs Wagoneer hedman headers for $150 . There not shorties but they don't look full lenth ether? Wounder if they'll clear everthing?

Thanks again

[LanceM]

Still not sure if there going to work,

Here's the headers for the cj7, way to long!


http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4388/cj7e.jpg (http://img215.imageshack.us/i/cj7e.jpg/)


Here's the headers for the wagoneer


http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/4967/j20x.jpg (http://img11.imageshack.us/i/j20x.jpg/)



Can't really see anything thats going to get in the way, woundering if the CJ frame might be too narrower? Anyone here with a waggy or know if the header would hug the engine enough that they might work for me.


Pic of the pass side old header


http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4995/1001521w.jpg (http://img195.imageshack.us/i/1001521w.jpg/)



Pic of the driver side


http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/7861/1001523i.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/i/1001523i.jpg/)

[msalaba]

Using my calibrated eyeball on your pics... I'd guess the collectors on the waggy headers would drop on the framerail. It also looks like primarys on #1 and #2 would rub you engine mounts.

The Edelbrock is the only thing I've ever found (outside of full custom) for block hugging headers.

This is not a chebby engine. There are no "cheap" solutions.

Unless your building a dragracer, the stock manifolds will flow fine.

[tufcj]

i have the factory manifolds and thought about running them but the driver side exhaust emptys right in to my clutch linkage, did some research and found the the 304 drivers side manifold will fix that but then found the jegs Wagoneer hedman headers for $150 . There not shorties but they don't look full lenth ether? Wounder if they'll clear everthing?

Thanks again

That driver side manifold is a late (87-90?) Wagoneer model. The earlier driver manifold is different (71-86, AMC car, CJ, Wagoneer, Truck), it dumps further forward and will clear clutch linkages.

Bob
tufcj

[LanceM]

Thanks alot guys, might try to save up for the Edelbrock shorties.

Will keep you posted :mrgreen:

[msalaba]

That driver side manifold is a late (87-90?) Wagoneer model. The earlier driver manifold is different (71-86, AMC car, CJ, Wagoneer, Truck), it dumps further forward and will clear clutch linkages.

Bob
tufcj[/quote]

Not quite. I've pulled parts off a 76 & 78 J-truck and both had autos and the drivers manifold dropped @ #7. Same with a 85 Waggy that donated me an engine. (had TF 727)

From what I learned, they only used the manifold that dropped @ #5 on CJ's, cars and trucks used the other style. I could be wrong, but this is what I've seen looking for my own manifold.

LanceM - You can find these on e-bay quite often. Just make sure you get the right one. It would be a PITA to get the wrong one.

[LanceM]

Well i went with the Hocker headers (PN9403) mostly do to the cost :mrgreen: and already ran into a problem ](*,) nothing major just had to grind my M.o.r.e motor mount on the passenger side a little, i'll weld in a peice later to fill the hole.

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1069/1001598q.jpg (http://img210.imageshack.us/i/1001598q.jpg/)

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/170/1001599p.jpg (http://img717.imageshack.us/i/1001599p.jpg/)

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/3076/1001602s.jpg (http://img517.imageshack.us/i/1001602s.jpg/)

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/3121/1001592i.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/i/1001592i.jpg/)



Drivers sides good

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/3391/1001593um.jpg (http://img97.imageshack.us/i/1001593um.jpg/)

[pro2]

You may need to grind more from the mount to allow for heat expansion and flex... looks a bit tight?