Mav68erick
12-30-2012, 09:04 AM
Ya really frustrated, Im to the point I dont ever wanna cut anything thinner then 11 gauge on this table. Basic shapes are ok anything with detail close lines or alot of pierces forget it. Seems like I can cut 1/4" without a working thc perfect.
So I try to cut some stainless today, about .055 thick cut it before without THC never warps, always slow the Speed down by half and cut the amps by half because another issue I notice is I cant see how anyone cuts over 200 IPM!!!!!!!! The books show 350 for 16gauage stainles, really how? When I first got the table set up I followed book specs and lowered the cut to 300 and it would not cut an inside corner at all, no radius it would cut the corner and leave a huge radius im talking like .500" on a corner that was at roughly 90* It didnt seem like it wanted to travel to the node then change direction, so whatever cut feed and amps in half problem solved cuts look nice little dross no big deal.
Well heres the big problem and I think all these people blabbling about HC forget about this on thin stuff, I read about people cutting 20 22 and even 24 g material.? and I ASK HOW!? These tables have touch and go to zero, every time I watch my torch touch to zero it self and its inbetween slats ( even worse when pieces around it are cut out ) you watch it push the material below what the table set height would be, so boom now its say .060 below table raises up pierces and the torch is touching, boom consider that nozzle toast the THC isnt fast enough to save that im afraid.
Not to mention Ive read the 3-4 latest posts about people having THC issues and today I turned it on and was playing with it, I think I seen it move once! basically the torch was dragging the entire time then I finally seen it move .030 as I seen the volts vary 30-40 the preset value of 130. The preset profiles in mach for hyertherm arent anywheres close for a Powermax65 model the volt values are way high so I changed it accordily to the manual.
So in all reality what good is the THC for other then keeping correct Torch height on a long continuous cut? once the sheets warped your screwed for the next pierce or touch off ( which I have set to every 10" ) or to comensate for an unlevel water table to gantry or slag on slats causing height difference in the material over an xAmount of distance.
I just seen in apocolypses thread a jumper wire? I think I seen that in an old thread to but I dont recall anywhere in my pdfs of reading it telling me to do it to my table.
Im just bummed out I guess tired of everytime I go to do something I have to deal with issues and working 6 days a week I dont get much free time, Finally got an actual Machine torch because the hand torch hanging I thought was giving me angular cut issues and never even tried to square it up, was working pretty good when I first mounted it, which I think was a little ghetto took the top clamp off and it seemed to fit against it fine so Its just zip tied and clamped at the bottom til I can machine a new mount.
I just want to get this straigtened out so even if I cut thick stuff I can use it thus knowing the Torch height is as close to the called out cut height as possible so I can rule that out of cut quality issues, Heck the difference in my Z offset from my hand torch to Machine torch was almost .020 because it torqued the gantry down with the handle and cable hanging so far out from it. So I know that was causing touch of zeroing issues, although whenever I stopped it and through a shim under the shield it seemed to always be close to the .060 mark.
I dont want this post to seem like a bitch fest Im just venting out some frustration
So I try to cut some stainless today, about .055 thick cut it before without THC never warps, always slow the Speed down by half and cut the amps by half because another issue I notice is I cant see how anyone cuts over 200 IPM!!!!!!!! The books show 350 for 16gauage stainles, really how? When I first got the table set up I followed book specs and lowered the cut to 300 and it would not cut an inside corner at all, no radius it would cut the corner and leave a huge radius im talking like .500" on a corner that was at roughly 90* It didnt seem like it wanted to travel to the node then change direction, so whatever cut feed and amps in half problem solved cuts look nice little dross no big deal.
Well heres the big problem and I think all these people blabbling about HC forget about this on thin stuff, I read about people cutting 20 22 and even 24 g material.? and I ASK HOW!? These tables have touch and go to zero, every time I watch my torch touch to zero it self and its inbetween slats ( even worse when pieces around it are cut out ) you watch it push the material below what the table set height would be, so boom now its say .060 below table raises up pierces and the torch is touching, boom consider that nozzle toast the THC isnt fast enough to save that im afraid.
Not to mention Ive read the 3-4 latest posts about people having THC issues and today I turned it on and was playing with it, I think I seen it move once! basically the torch was dragging the entire time then I finally seen it move .030 as I seen the volts vary 30-40 the preset value of 130. The preset profiles in mach for hyertherm arent anywheres close for a Powermax65 model the volt values are way high so I changed it accordily to the manual.
So in all reality what good is the THC for other then keeping correct Torch height on a long continuous cut? once the sheets warped your screwed for the next pierce or touch off ( which I have set to every 10" ) or to comensate for an unlevel water table to gantry or slag on slats causing height difference in the material over an xAmount of distance.
I just seen in apocolypses thread a jumper wire? I think I seen that in an old thread to but I dont recall anywhere in my pdfs of reading it telling me to do it to my table.
Im just bummed out I guess tired of everytime I go to do something I have to deal with issues and working 6 days a week I dont get much free time, Finally got an actual Machine torch because the hand torch hanging I thought was giving me angular cut issues and never even tried to square it up, was working pretty good when I first mounted it, which I think was a little ghetto took the top clamp off and it seemed to fit against it fine so Its just zip tied and clamped at the bottom til I can machine a new mount.
I just want to get this straigtened out so even if I cut thick stuff I can use it thus knowing the Torch height is as close to the called out cut height as possible so I can rule that out of cut quality issues, Heck the difference in my Z offset from my hand torch to Machine torch was almost .020 because it torqued the gantry down with the handle and cable hanging so far out from it. So I know that was causing touch of zeroing issues, although whenever I stopped it and through a shim under the shield it seemed to always be close to the .060 mark.
I dont want this post to seem like a bitch fest Im just venting out some frustration