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jamscal
02-13-2013, 11:12 PM
Hello all,

My 'check is in the mail' and I should have a 5x10 Gantry in a few weeks.

I own a welding/fab shop (RLC Welding & Fabrication LLC) and mainly make winch bumpers for a variety of vehicles.

The reviews on Pirate are what led me to Bulltear.

I get a lot of parts laser cut currently. I love the quality but I've been spending more per year on cutting than a table would cost.


Anyway, got a quote on the steel and I can have the large pan formed in one piece.

Pics will come when the build starts.

-James

jeepsr4ever
02-15-2013, 02:35 AM
Welcome aboard James! We get alot of customers that have dealt with the same long lead times when they are outsourcing laser parts. Having the tool in house to make the part can most often times be the best solution. Looking forward to your build here. Were you able to access the instructional and find the 5x10 table blue prints. Just so you know some places can make the water pan from one single piece so their is no welding a seam in the middle.

jamscal
02-17-2013, 01:18 PM
I've found the prints.

My steel supplier can make the pan from one piece.

3" deep pan...

Do I need 3" slats and how many?

-James

jeepsr4ever
02-17-2013, 02:46 PM
54 slats

go green
02-18-2013, 03:48 AM
I built my 5X10 table this weekend , whats the going rate to form a one piece pan in your area ?

jamscal
02-18-2013, 11:26 AM
$340 out of 11 ga.

My supplier is 'local' but they have a few locations in Michigan as well, and sometimes stuff has to come from there.

-James

Edit, I'm in Louisville, KY.

jamscal
02-25-2013, 11:08 PM
Looking to buy a computer.

Do I need an XP computer or what exactly will I need.

How about this one. (Refurbished Dell running XP cheap on ebay):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REFURBISHED-DELL-P4-3-0-GHZ-SMALL-DESKTOP-PC-COMPUTER-2GB-80GB-WIN-XP-17-LCD-/330786091517?pt=Desktop_PCs&hash=item4d046331fd

jeepsr4ever
02-26-2013, 02:36 AM
XP 32bit intel pentium 4. If that is a 32 bit operating system it will work flawlessly.

jamscal
03-02-2013, 05:08 AM
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1004_zps0dd3630b.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1005_zpscf38a6b3.jpg

Table and computer... the latter is from the link above on ebay.

Just flipped the table, haven't welded the top joints yet.

jeepsr4ever
03-04-2013, 03:27 AM
Good work!

jamscal
03-20-2013, 02:03 PM
Water table should be here Friday. Gantry soon hopefully.

Does any one coat the inside of the water table with paint or anything?

Or is it a lost cause being constantly submerged?

-James

jeepsr4ever
03-21-2013, 01:34 AM
We use some sodium nitrite maybe 2 cups worth for the whole water pan. That keeps the pan and water rust free.

jamscal
03-26-2013, 09:20 AM
Water table arrived today... they didn't break the ends per the drawing but included the end caps I'll have to weld on. Got a start on it.

They knocked $60 off the price. Said they couldn't bend it.

Found some pipe couplers and turned them down on the lathe to fit into holes I've yet to drill. I'm going with two drains at opposite corners.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1031_zps848637a3.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1032_zps6c51196c.jpg

Capped the lower tube ends with more of a fish plate. A little overkill but better looking than a square. I want to cap the uppers but think I may need access inside the tube???

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1030_zpsf78ef50a.jpg

The gantry should be on its way down the road and I hope to have it Friday.

In other news, the $25 auction score. :)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1033_zpseb3f7a7e.jpg

yes it has no jack.

-James

jamscal
03-29-2013, 09:05 AM
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1040_zps8dd3e11b.jpg

Gantry made it safely!!! I now have enough 2x4s to build my office wall :)



http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1041_zps4037e99e.jpg


Pic of welded drain and some pan hold downs. (Stole this idea from another build.)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1038_zps17736d5a.jpg


Started unpacking, looking around and getting the table ready to bolt the rails on.


-James

jamscal
04-01-2013, 10:48 AM
My dad came out today and drill and tapped the holes while we worked, then we quit an hour early to do some more work on it.

Rails and sides are on. Set some other stuff too:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1045_zpsfef55eef.jpg

Everything seems to run up and down smoothly.

jeepsr4ever
04-02-2013, 01:35 AM
Great start!

jamscal
04-02-2013, 08:25 AM
Thanks.

Got the motors on today, all the brackets and energy chain. Will probably mount the box tomorrow.

Slats are coming tomorrow too and hopefully the machine torch.



Question:

Got the bobcad and Mach 3 installed.

Didn't see sheetcam (my employee loaded everything so I didn't see him do it)

Is there sheetcam that I'm missing or is the Bobcam what I should use? There was no listing for Bulltear under the Bobcam when we went to install.


Thanks,

James

jeepsr4ever
04-02-2013, 08:39 AM
Sheetcam/mach3 are on your blue support disk. Bobcad has your customer # and password on the actual case. It is best to quickly hook your PC to the internet and do the registration online with bobcad...takes 25 seconds to send the data when you go to help/register online in bobcad.

jamscal
04-03-2013, 08:09 AM
Thanks for the help today, software is up and going (for now...nothing is hooked to the controller.)

Various shots of some of the brackets that need made. Also, the control box mount (mounting on an angle)

Feel free to point out if anything looks off :)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1048_zpsc9ed346c.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1050_zps5b2a5746.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1046_zps33be13de.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1047_zps17a45c75.jpg

hooded employee playing with the bobcad:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1051_zps78dd0d6d.jpg

jeepsr4ever
04-03-2013, 09:06 AM
Thats right! Looking good!...very good!

jamscal
04-04-2013, 11:22 AM
Questions:

Does the z axis limit wire going into the box go to these spade terminals? (my box isn't exactly the same as the pic in the instructions...)

Do I shove the wire thru the vent in the top?


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1054_zps97cccd48.jpg

This other cable I got has two male ends, as does the control box. No way to plug it from the computer to the control box. Did I get a wrong cable or am i missing something? Adapter?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1055_zps6929b270.jpg

Thanks

jeepsr4ever
04-04-2013, 11:25 AM
Z axis wires connect there however you want a crimp on female spade end. We dont supply those but its a hardware store item. Depending on the PC you have it iwll either be male or female. You may need a gender change adaptor.

jamscal
04-04-2013, 12:46 PM
Thanks.

---

Today I though it would be a good idea to caulk the tube to rail seam with silicone.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1056_zps797ccf20.jpg

The machine torch made it today and I got everything moved to it's final location.

jamscal
04-05-2013, 08:25 AM
Depending on the PC you have it iwll either be male or female. You may need a gender change adaptor.

My pc side is female, but the cord you supplied won't fit your control box, so there may be an issue with your supply there.

Is it called a 25 pin connector? or something else? I'll have to order online and need to know I'm getting the right thing.

Local computer store, Staples and Best buy have nothing that will work.

___________

-Other question:

I slaved the a axis. Do I have to tune it as well (it still shows different parameters) or will it just do what it's told?

jeepsr4ever
04-05-2013, 09:33 AM
Hmm that one came from CandCNC. I will get them to ship you a cord. It is a DB25 cable.

go green
04-07-2013, 03:06 AM
Check in my crate before you send it out it , they might have shipped you the same cord with my electronics .

jamscal
04-07-2013, 12:40 PM
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1063_zpsac998fe9.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1066_zpsd006a08c.jpg


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1064_zps6485e033.jpg


current progress pics^^^

jamscal
04-10-2013, 11:25 AM
First cut(s)!!!

Started cutting and the height on the z-axis went up for some reason so had to stop. Second cut over the first did a bit better. Last pic was with the height control off and looks nice.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1068_zpsdbb78449.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1069_zpsfc1b1e78.jpg

jeepsr4ever
04-10-2013, 11:28 AM
You need to verify tip volts division. Your plasma cutter comes stock with 50-1 and the PWM box at 7-1 so you will need to set the CPC card in the plasma to a "all down" to get the 20-1 and take the black box's backplate off (4 screws) and set it to 20-1.

jamscal
04-10-2013, 11:45 AM
Current issues:

1.

X home is enabled 1,11 active low

Limit overload is also on 1,11 (not active low)

Instructions say to make sure no two things are on the same pin...what should be where?

2.

THC On/Off blinking green and apparently not working.

3.

Z axis loses zero. Something to do with THC?

4.

Long delay after pierce and before start (running .3 or .5 sec pierce delay...it's much longer).


5.

The few parts I've run are 1/8" undersized, i.e. 6" circle is 5 7/8. I have the offset right and the kerf right too.


That's it for now. I'm sure in my excitement I've done something wrong and I'll be reading more to try to solve my own problems, but any help on the above will be helpful.

Thanks,

James

jamscal
04-10-2013, 11:47 AM
You need to verify tip volts division. Your plasma cutter comes stock with 50-1 and the PWM box at 7-1 so you will need to set the CPC card in the plasma to a "all down" to get the 20-1 and take the black box's backplate off (4 screws) and set it to 20-1.

Thanks...I was typing when you wrote this :)

jeepsr4ever
04-10-2013, 01:02 PM
Current issues:

1.

X home is enabled 1,11 active low

Limit overload is also on 1,11 (not active low)

Instructions say to make sure no two things are on the same pin...what should be where? Disable X home that is an option you can add later for the torch breakaway

2.

THC On/Off blinking green and apparently not working. Check to make sure ccc_comcandcnc plug in is enabled. Go to config/plugins in Mach.

3.

Z axis loses zero. Something to do with THC? See #2

4.

Long delay after pierce and before start (running .3 or .5 sec pierce delay...it's much longer). See #2


5.

The few parts I've run are 1/8" undersized, i.e. 6" circle is 5 7/8. I have the offset right and the kerf right too. PM sent about tuning


That's it for now. I'm sure in my excitement I've done something wrong and I'll be reading more to try to solve my own problems, but any help on the above will be helpful.

Thanks,

James

OK, check the quote

jamscal
04-10-2013, 01:34 PM
Thanks a bunch!


To confirm, I'm going to open the cover on the hypertherm 45 to get to the cpc card?

jeepsr4ever
04-10-2013, 01:41 PM
Oh its a 45 well then its preset to 50. Make sure the black box is set to 50 and your golden.

jamscal
04-11-2013, 10:36 AM
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1077_zps5f454a82.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1077_zps5f454a82.jpg.html)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1076_zpse0693140.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1076_zpse0693140.jpg.html)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1073_zpse29ee1d9.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1073_zpse29ee1d9.jpg.html)


Made a part and played around with the machine.

I'm sure there will be a learning curve and unexpected things come up, but I can draw and cut a bumper part easily.

Waiting for some slat holders and slats for the table and then I'll filler up. Have about a half inch of water in it right now.

-James

jamscal
04-11-2013, 11:14 AM
Issue #1 for today:

The torch volts and amps show zero in Mach. I expected they would show values while cutting...am I wrong?

Can't really tell if the torch height control is working since I'm cutting 7 ga and 1/4" currently.

Issue #2

Tried to click "points for drilling" but it still cut holes. Do I need to use a rotary tool for that?

Issue #3

Bobart apparently requires another code to register online...do you have a code for me to use or will I have to call them?


Thanks,

James

jeepsr4ever
04-11-2013, 11:26 AM
Issue #1 is the plugin I talked about earlier, or you have your yellow cord not going from black box to controller
Issue #2 I am not sure on sheetcam we had another customer pickup a table and we couldnt get it to work either. I dont believe its a point drawing issue but I will let the engineer behind sheetcam know of the issue.
Issue #3 we dont give any Bobcad out for free but the drawing and CAM portion which we dont use. Any extra like Bobart or Bobnest must be purchased from them.

jamscal
04-11-2013, 11:35 AM
Thanks, I did the plug in but I'll double check that and make sure the yellow cord is fully engaged.

jeepsr4ever
04-11-2013, 01:30 PM
Also did someone here ever email you keys to Mach3 and sheetcam? Without them you wont get THC

jamscal
04-11-2013, 01:56 PM
Also did someone here ever email you keys to Mach3 and sheetcam? Without them you wont get THC

The licences? yes.

jamscal
04-11-2013, 11:16 PM
Still no dthc.

Under config. It says no power supply detected under Power Supply and last error history was Current over limit.

Everything is plugged in and on.

Thanks,

James

jeepsr4ever
04-12-2013, 01:01 AM
Verify the black box is set to 50-1 division. Also verify the yellow cable is plugged in from black box to controller not PC. Also verify the 9 pin cable from PC to control box.

jamscal
04-12-2013, 09:50 AM
Thanks! I had the 9 pin plugged into the back of the computer but that was loose in the case for some reason

....used the other 9 pin and it came online.

Says dthc online.

Green light is blinking. Torch Volts reads now.

Seems to work but torch amps reads zero???

jeepsr4ever
04-12-2013, 10:04 AM
Verify MIC01 cable plugged into the back of the plasma cutter and two end in the correct place in the PWM box.

jamscal
04-13-2013, 03:04 AM
Verify MIC01 cable plugged into the back of the plasma cutter and two end in the correct place in the PWM box.

I'll double (triple?) check or take pics Monday.

Today's problem:

Went to the shop to fill up the water table and mess around with it.

went to zero x and y to cut a part.

Hit reference x by mistake and one motor took off and the other didn't! Hit stop but tweaked it based on measurement.

Turned everything off, pushed the gantry even (as possible) and restarted. It jogged fine but sure don't want to hit ref x again.

Also, the side that didn't take off had a set screw loose on the big gear. I tightened it. Didn't remember it being like that but could have overlooked it.

Tried to load a part that worked fine yesterday and there was an error, wouldn't run. Also the up light on the dthc was red (just twice during all this).

Not sure if any of the above is interrelated..

The 25 pin connector into the box was sagging when it happened (I had the adapter in there.) too. Replaced and tightened with replacement cord. Again not sure if related...


I'm going to loosen the bolts of the gantry, line it up and retighten.

-James

jeepsr4ever
04-13-2013, 11:26 AM
Try it with the new cord when it arrives.

jamscal
04-15-2013, 08:50 AM
Everything is back to normal today..don't know how exactly but it is. Cut parts throughout the day.

Still no torch amps. Not too worried.

Here is a pic of the box. We did make it 50-1 inside.

Another thought: the powermax45 didn't come with a machine torch originally. I think I read somewhere that that might make a difference.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1081_zpseaf5a985.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1081_zpseaf5a985.jpg.html)

Otherwise everything is tight and running right.

-James

jeepsr4ever
04-15-2013, 10:51 AM
It could be that the divided tip volts wire cable was never installed into that unit. Give Hypertherm's tech a quick call.

jamscal
04-16-2013, 12:20 PM
I'll call if necessary. Don't plan on needing to change amps on the fly, but who knows.

I need to know a little more about the dthc settings.

Torch is diving after the pierce...mostly recovering but sometimes not.

Should I set the delay time or tip saver and do I have to set it for every tool.

Cut some 3/8" today and it was nicer than I expected. This is fresh off the table with no grinding:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1082_zpsb3ba3225.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1082_zpsb3ba3225.jpg.html)

Getting a lot of splash when I cut near the side. I'm glad I went with the caulk. Now I'm going to make some sort of splash shield to ride on the gantry that prevents 'direct hits' to the trucks .

-James

jeepsr4ever
04-16-2013, 01:09 PM
THC delay needs to be longer than the pierce time plus the time it takes to egt to cut height plus the time it takes to actually move. Never initially go by the Hypertherm book for cut height. Always go at least .020 higher as tip volts will set cut height once THC delay is gone and THC takes over. I cannot stress that enough to folks

jamscal
04-17-2013, 08:45 AM
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1083_zpsf8aa28b1.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1083_zpsf8aa28b1.jpg.html)

Scuzzy area around the trucks^^

My solution (Cut on the table of course. Aluminum):

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1084_zps42ad38c2.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1084_zps42ad38c2.jpg.html)

In action:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1085_zpsad36663a.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1085_zpsad36663a.jpg.html)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1086_zps2b1cee4e.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1086_zps2b1cee4e.jpg.html)

jamscal
04-22-2013, 11:40 AM
Still going good:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1096_zpsa3f7565d.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1096_zpsa3f7565d.jpg.html)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1094_zps017af000.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1094_zps017af000.jpg.html)

jamscal
06-24-2013, 11:27 AM
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1215_zps4551663d.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1215_zps4551663d.jpg.html)

Things going fine still. Time to clean the table.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1218_zpsc3feb94d.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1218_zpsc3feb94d.jpg.html)

Wet dross in a cardboard box. Not my best idea today:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j118/jamscal/Cars/Tools/IMAG1219_zps09a174af.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/jamscal/media/Cars/Tools/IMAG1219_zps09a174af.jpg.html)

jeepsr4ever
06-27-2013, 01:20 AM
Your nice to your table. Most folks dont pull slag until it is holding the plate up..lol. A cardboard box works great with some of this spray

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hCdYOXDsy4

jamscal
11-02-2013, 05:05 PM
First problems this week.

intermittently one of the x axis motors will stop and everything else keeps going.

It happened once Thursday and I resquared everything, turned everything off and on and checked connections.

It was fine after that until today, when it happened multiple times...

Motor was locked, wouldn't move at all.

-once- I swapped a and x axis and it jogged after that, switched them back and it jogged then too. -don't know if that was a fluke or what.

Do I need a new motor?

Thanks,

James

jeepsr4ever
11-02-2013, 11:10 PM
Hard to say it could be a cable. For a motor you should contact CandCNC they will get one out for free.

jamscal
11-03-2013, 07:28 AM
Thanks.

Do I need a reference number for the new motor? Is there something on the control box or do I need to say I bought a Bulltear kit on a certain date...

Also, what is the best method of contact for them?

-James

jeepsr4ever
11-03-2013, 08:55 AM
Before we assume its a motor lets check all cabling like the DB25 form the PC. When these get loose they cause all kind of motion issues.

jamscal
11-03-2013, 11:01 AM
Good idea, when I said I checked the connections I meant only the motor connections....I'll check everything tomorrow, test and report back.

jeepsr4ever
11-03-2013, 03:37 PM
Stuttering usually means bad data stream. Motors not working then working means a lack of signal. If the motors continued to NOT work we would first look at drives then individual motors.

jamscal
11-04-2013, 04:45 PM
Did it all day again today.

The A would lock up, I'd swap X and A, and they would both work.

At the end of the day A locked up again, I swapped cables and it followed the cables (X was now locked and A moved).

Checked all the connections. It seems early today it was locked and after I checked and tightened everything in the back of the computer it worked...but I don't know if it's related

I was able to cut parts intermittently. I cut small ones and baby-sat until it happened again.

My thought is it's whatever drives the A axis

but don't know.


-James

jeepsr4ever
11-04-2013, 05:36 PM
Strange issue! Give CandCNC a shout and let them know what you found out. They may send you a new drive to install. On the replacement under warrantee they cover those parts.

903-364-2740
or
903-771-4824

jamscal
11-05-2013, 08:49 PM
Called them today after it happened again.

They said it's likely a connection problem and not a problem with the drive or motor and recommended replacing the db25 cable and tightening all connections, including some of the individual screws on the driver inside the box.

I did the tightening (though nothing seemed loose), scraped the pins on the connectors a bit and put it back together.

I then proceeded to cut some parts with no issues. Hopefully I'm good.

-James

jeepsr4ever
11-10-2013, 11:08 AM
Often times it is the most simple issue. Over the years we have found that an actual issue with the electronics has been rare and often operator, software install or PC requirements often cause issues.

jamscal
11-12-2013, 04:11 PM
Well after my last post it just went downhill, progressively acting up, to the point where the A motor is locked no matter what now. I'm going to post on their forum.

jamscal
11-12-2013, 08:12 PM
Often times it is the most simple issue. Over the years we have found that an actual issue with the electronics has been rare and often operator, software install or PC requirements often cause issues.

I hope it's simple but it's been the same computer and software from day one.

I found this maybe similar issue and it was a bad gecko drive. Don't know if this applies to me.

http://www.bulltear.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-18986.html?

-James

jamscal
03-12-2014, 05:27 PM
Everything is still going fine. Wanted to update since I didn't post how the last issue was resolved.

I swapped drives in the box and it cured the issue...the act of removing and retightening all the contacts probably did it.

Anyway coming up on one year with the table and am going to post a one year update soon.

jeepsr4ever
03-14-2014, 07:50 AM
Great! We barely ever get feedback because things are running smoothly.

jamscal
03-16-2014, 08:06 AM
Some things I've done, wish I'd done, and things I've learned, general thoughts (It won't be all in one post I'm sure):

I caulked between the rail and tube as pictured above. I should have also caulked between water table and tube. You can see that water has run under the water table and dripped down. (I'll probably do this the next time I clean the table)

I should have done a better job painting and also painted the water table inside and out.

I'm glad I got a machine torch and hand torch. Being a fab shop I of course need the hand torch and it's much easier to cut up the skeletons.

I use a cheap 18" bolt cutter to cut up skeletons where possible. On good nests I can cut up a lot without breaking out the torch.

Other low buck 'tool' is a 2' stick of wood, maybe 2x2". I use it to push the corner of the plates to line them up.

jamscal
06-05-2014, 08:24 PM
Other tips:

I have a horizontal and vertical cut off programs (single, no offset lines the length of my travels ) I can run to help cut up the left overs....helps sometimes.

I have a ton of drawings/folder now but sometimes I know I'll never use the gcode again for a nest so I put that in a folder I call NEVERAGAINNESTS and don't feel bad when I delete the contents. Still have a bunch to clean out from foolishly saving them.

Also if I make a quick oneoff part I just name it delete.dxf and save it over the previous delete.dxf (and .tap)

My table is full of dross again and it's past time for a cleanout....still cutting everyday.

-James

jeepsr4ever
06-05-2014, 10:01 PM
Did you replace the drives with new drives or was it just moving the drive boards around? You thought it was just a connection issue with the little screws on the drives?

jamscal
06-07-2014, 06:05 PM
Just moved the drives around.

It's been awhile but I think I loosed/retightened all the screws first and still had some issues, then moved them around and that was it.

Also replace the db25 cable but that apparently didn't matter.

-James

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