Update on Double Cherry

[Blown7]

Well I went to a doctors appointment and after parking in the lot I noticed a puddle of oil under the engine. After careful deduction I found the crankshaft seal has given up the good fight.
Well after getting it home, (The Jeep oil systems capacity is 23 quarts) so I'm not worried about driving 6 miles home...
I have this wonderful fight with the ARP crankshaft bolt... it won..
Now to make a drill bushing fixture and redrill and retap or Helicoil

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Tractor007_zps905cd4ce.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Tractor007_zps905cd4ce.jpg.html)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Tractor004_zps90c35f80.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Tractor004_zps90c35f80.jpg.html)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Tractor005_zps80faf398.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Tractor005_zps80faf398.jpg.html)

and of course it's in a hell of a place now with all the custom coilover brackets and stuff

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Tractor008_zps2bf60262.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Tractor008_zps2bf60262.jpg.html)

[jeepsr4ever]

Looks like a hint of blue Loctite on there

[tufcj]

You might try the old trick of setting a nut over it and welding the nut to the stump of the bolt. The heat might help free it up. It's going to be mighty hard to drill out an ARP bolt.

Bob
tufcj

[Blown7]

Looks like a hint of blue Loctite on there

Nope no Loctite on there, I really never use it unless the manual calls it out. After years of "Pulling" the vibration damper off and on (I never had to in 5 years) I guess the threads in the crank let go the last time I installed the damper. I never knew nor did the install have any question of thread failure.
It would be nice to find a 1/2-20 threaded long rod that has the "hardness" of either a Allen cap screw, or a Grade 8 bolt to use a nut to install the damper. I ised 3 different lengths of bolts the last time and I'm sure the threads gave all they had.


You might try the old trick of setting a nut over it and welding the nut to the stump of the bolt. The heat might help free it up. It's going to be mighty hard to drill out an ARP bolt.

Bob
tufcj

Well the bolt felt stripped aftrer 3 turns out.. then it didn't move. Eventually I broke the bolt with the help of a 4 foot breaker bar.

So given that I doubt the rest of the bolt won't go.. I'll just have to drill and see if any good threads remain and if not get a Heli coil kit for 1/2-20

Keep ya all posted.. other than that this setup has been flawless.....!!!!!



http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Bathroomandoilfilter052_zps0d200672.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Bathroomandoilfilter052_zps0d200672.jpg.html)

[Blown7]

So I got the rest of the bolt out by step drilling with a drill fixture I made. The multiple drill bushings are different sizes for step drilling... from center drill thru 7/16" drill size.
Worked well....maybe if it was a seller Bulltear could offer a set someday.

Now the reason the seal started leaking is the oil slinger ring gave up the ghost being 37 years old.. my guess is it cracked form vibration and then got caught in the timing chain/gear and ripped the seal inner spring off..

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Tractor009_zpsa3e6c04c.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Tractor009_zpsa3e6c04c.jpg.html)


So how many people have run a engine without the slinger ring and had good results on the seal not being overwhelmed with oil??

I don't feel like removing everything to install a new slinger ring (getting lazy in my old age)..so I plan on making a new slinger ring ..but it won't be the same diameter as the original ( it will be the same diameter as the seal) so I can install it thru the seal hole and have the same preload measurement for the vibration damper.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Tractor010_zps47dfc85c.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Tractor010_zps47dfc85c.jpg.html)

Does Bulltear or anyone sell a brand new slinger????


.

[tufcj]

It's held in place between the lower cam gear and the harmonic. If you run without, the harmonic will be the thickness of the slinger deeper. It might affect the alignment of the pulleys.

As for running without, I forgot to put one in my Jeep once, the seal leaked pretty bad without it.

Bob
tufcj

[Blown7]

So the job is complete and the engines back up and doing the daily driver thing.



I turned another slinger ring I found in one of the old parts bins.... Fortunately the ring diameter from the factory is around 2.940" in diameter and the seal outside diameter is 2.750 ish so I only had to remove .200" thousandths from the diameter. I'm glad MC made Double Cherry with the ability to install/remove the seal externally. I noticed that the factory timing cover does not have that option.. you gotta take everything off the engine, that would be a lot longer time wise.


http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Tractor012_zpsb281053e.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Tractor012_zpsb281053e.jpg.html)



I also had to purchase a Heli Coil kit in 1/2-20 size ..damn .... MSC sells them for $105 dollars! Well I needed it..

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Tractor014_zps7100c0f6.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Tractor014_zps7100c0f6.jpg.html)


For anyone that cares the bolt I use to install the damper is the ARP BB Chevy bolt. Just removing it and snapping the bolt but not stripping the head days alot to the quality.
Torque it to 110 foot pounds.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/Tractor013_zps9fc6dd8f.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/Blown7/media/Tractor013_zps9fc6dd8f.jpg.html)