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ggeh
01-06-2017, 04:04 PM
Z home stopped working. No light in mach diagnostics for Z home. checked switch on torch good, checked wires from Z home switch to control box good. no light on circuit board where the Z home wires are connected in the control box. Have lights on the on the other three. tried to send pics dont know if they went. let me know what to do next. Thanks Gary






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jeepsr4ever
01-07-2017, 08:10 AM
Gary did the wire snap where it comes out of the Z slide. There is a machined hole for the Z axis wire. There must be a short in the wire or you have a bad switch. Do you heat the building you have your machine in? We had a customer yesterday cutting at -20 below zero and he had a servo unit and smoked a motor cutting in the cold.

ggeh
01-07-2017, 01:57 PM
I bench tested the Z home switch and the wire from the control box to the Z home switch and also checked the wires and the Y home switch which is working. The Z and the Y switch and wires tested the same. In the closed position I had .6 ohms, open I had infinite. No broken wires. So to me that eliminates the switch and the wire as being the problem. The plasma table is in a heated garage that is a constant 60 degrees so that eliminates temperature question. Looking at the circuit board where the Z wires terminate the led is lit but very dim when compared to the other three lites. no lite when open , dim lite when closed. Could there be a problem in that circuit board where the homing wires terminate? and last I have not changed any settings since I received the PC back from you. let me know what your thoughts are. Thanks Gary

jeepsr4ever
01-08-2017, 02:48 PM
Gary try putting a wire across the two Z input terminals. Or a wrench to short it (Very low DC output). It is possible that the wire going to your switch has an ALMOST dead short. If you jumper the two terminals and get a STRONG Z axis LED then we know its the wiring or switch. We can send you out a replacement switch for free that or any wiring. The Proton Z axis eliminates the float switch and uses an OHMIC sensor to find the sheet top which is now a standard on our new tables. But you should be able to use that switch for years and years and years

ggeh
01-08-2017, 08:26 PM
I shorted across the Z home terminals on the circuit board in the control box and the lite comes on very dim, the same as it does when I operate the Z-home switch at the torch slide.

jeepsr4ever
01-09-2017, 09:46 AM
Noted... We should be able to remap Z home. If you look on the Table I/O you will see from top to bottom X home, Y home, Z home, A home and then Limits. We can move the spade terminals from Z home to the 'Limits' terminal and remap the Z home in Ports and Pins. That could get you going right away. Do you have your table to earth ground? You might want to tie the frame to an earth ground (Rod in the earth) when the weather warms up. If you don't need to get running right away we can RMA that control box. Either way call in so we can get things moving for you. 1-855-433-3689

ggeh
01-09-2017, 03:07 PM
Matt I ordered a new Table I/O card from CandCNC. After talking with them about the difference in brightness of LED's and it didn't change when I shorted across, they seemed pretty sure the card is bad. I don't want to go the route of sending my control box back unless I absolutely have to, if I have a simpler option. The card suppose to be here Thursday I let you know if it works.

Thanks for all your help, Gary

jeepsr4ever
01-10-2017, 11:39 AM
Well that is an option. We could have taken good care of you Gary. Please don't hesitate to ask.

ggeh
01-11-2017, 04:25 PM
Matt, you always take good care of me and I appreciate that. I also know you run a 1st class business and Your a very busy man with the plasma, the jeep stuff and all the forums. You already told me what to look for and check with the Z-home. So If I can fix something that's not beyond my skill level that will free you up to help some one else.

Thanks for all your help, Gary

jeepsr4ever
01-11-2017, 06:43 PM
Gary your a very generous guy! Let me know if you need help in any way. I am not alone here. :)

ggeh
01-18-2017, 03:44 PM
I installed the new I/O card and turned on the control box and then mach3 and I get (wakeup client board does not respond) So I don't have any lights on the green cat5 that plugs into the PC Ethernet and no lights where it plugs into the control box either. I pinged 10.9.9.9 and it failed. What I found was on the ESS card what I think is the power supplied to the card -5 volts and +5 volts a red and black wire in a green connector. Both screws on the connector were tight. The black wire was in the jaw of the connector. The red wire was not in the jaw and was laying in the bottom of the green plastic connector. I was always having momentary connection problems (wakeup client board does not respond). I would then wiggly the cat5 cables and some times that seemed to work, other times not. I think it was just through pure luck that maybe vibration from my compressor or the table cutting that the red wire would make contact or not. So all is good for now and thanks for all your help. Maybe this could help some one else that is having momentary connection problems (wakeup client board does not respond). Just one more non related question. I was wondering what the advantage of the ohmic sensor is on the torch. I have the float switch on my torch now. What could I do having the ohmic sensor that I cannot do now?

Thanks again for all your help, Gary

jeepsr4ever
01-19-2017, 11:33 AM
Not sure what would cause that other than assembly Gary. Ohmic does not put ANY pressure down on the material you are cutting when the speed of the ohmic touch off is correct. It is an awesome feature for thinner materials but it doesn't like rusty or painted material.

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