360 stroker?

[Jeepoholic_Jake]

know the topic has been talked about but can't find much straight forward information about, anyways my buddy and I recently started a Mopar 360 into a Jeep XJ project, however me being diehard AMC (304 CJ, 87 YJ/87 MJ Jeeps currently and a build 99 XJ) I plan to pick up a Cj5 and swap A 360 in to compete with him and its been something I've always wanted to do. That being said, I was wondering what's the "easier" route to building a stroked 360, heard 401 crank can be used many deferent ways (anyone wanna chime in on that?) Forged pistons/rods, intake, headers, bored .030-.045 over, cam, light head work and a few other things prior to trying to stroke it will be added. Any help is greatly appreciated.... Will be used mainly for street/strip

[tufcj]

For street/strip, you'd be better off starting with a complete 401. 401 crank and rods are forged from the factory and the 401 block has stouter webbing inside. There is no replacement for displacement. You can drop a 401 crank in a 360 block, but the block is internally weaker. you'd need to notch the bottom of the bore to clear the crank throw. The 401 main journals are the same as 360, but the rod journals are bigger. You could use the 401 rods with a custom compression height piston ($$$$), or have the 401 rod journals cut and go with an aftermarket rod and piston. There is no way to mix/match using all factory replacement parts. Be very careful, and understand all the dimensions before ordering parts or you could end up with expensive un-usable parts. Have all the block machining done and measure before ordering rods and pistons. In the long run, cost is going to be about equal in stroking a 360 and ending up with around 400" and starting with a more expensive 401 block and rebuilding it for performance.

I just built another 68/69 AMC 390. I used parts that I had collected over several years. It still cost me over $1500 just in machine work on the block, heads, crank, and rods. I did the assembly work.
That said, I had a rock crawler CJ7, AMC 360 powered. Bone stock bottom end that had been balanced (about 8.5 compression). Mild cam, Performer intake, EFI conversion, and lots of head work (port, polish, gasket match, 3 angle valve cuts, good springs/retainers) Geared at 72:1 in low/low, it would pull stumps and idle up hills. I have a 60K mile 401 sitting in the shed, and could never justify swapping it into the Jeep because the 360 ran so good. With the right research, you can build any engine to do what you want it to do, just how much do you want to spend?

Bob
tufcj

[Jeepoholic_Jake]

I'd love a 401 to begin with but that won't happen.... I know its significantly weaker but being bored .45 over won't make much of a difference In strength... Oh and also was already planing for forged pistons and rods, can spend the little extra for custom cut. Tis also why im wanting all information possinle before I order.