Any body welded up spider gears before?

[Trusty258]

Ive never done it, Heard that using 7018 or NiRod is the way to go.

any input?

Jesse

[jeepsr4ever]

i wouldnt use rod, anytime i do it i use mig wire, less spatter, but if your insistant then a 7018 will work great even a 7013 because it will flex a little, make sure its what you want first though and bead it up good to the differential (spider to diff).......good luck jess

[Trusty258]

I dont have acess to MIG Guns For use on automobiles. School Expressly Forbids welding on automobiles in the shop. So, I expect to be using stick at my friends house.

Im a little leary of the Mig process, THe last time I used it I filled my work full of porosity, because I ran out of Shielding gas. For me, there is less to screw up with stick, Thats not to say that I dont like the process, I do. Im just not comfortable with it right now.

Jesse

[thigh19]

Do you have to weld the spiders to the carrier? Can't you just weld the spiders to eash other and spare the carrier?

[Trusty258]

Ive heard both or either.

Personally, i wouel prefer to just weld the spidergears to eachother so its not totally destroyed, but I could go nuts and weld the hell out of it as I Do have a few extra eagle rears lying around, Near as I can tell, I have 2.73 or 2.35 in all of them, so I dont really thing that Getting a hold of another carrier will be too hard, considering that people usually pithc the 2.73s as fast and as hard as they can.

Jesse

[jeepsr4ever]

weld the gears to each other and to the carrier, all 4. Thats the noly way i know of to get posi with a welder

[Trusty258]

Yeah, thats the way i see it going, any other way it seems to lead to inevitable destruction.

Jesse

[Toy Maker]

On a 14 bolt FF or a rockwell, you can get by with welding the spyder gears to the axle gears only, but on the little stuff, you need to weld the side gears to the carrier. If doing it in the car, you will hardly get a good weld because you can not get the parts clean and oil free. For best results, remove the carrier, remove the ring gear, carrier bearings, clean thuroughly with solvent, then flush with carb cleaner or de-natured alcohol. Do not use Brake parts cleaners, as they normally contain chemicals that leave a residue which is corrosive when heated. After air drying, preheat carrier throughout to about 400 degrees, weld the axle gears to the carrier with "Super Missle Weld" rod made by Welco with the least amperage possible to minimize inevitable warpage. If you want, 7018 will work. Weld in short beads ballanced across from each other. Maintain preheat temp. When fully welded, post heat at 400 degrees till temp stabilizes throughout, then allow to cool slowly (overnite), as in a box or can full of floor dry or cat litter. After cool, have face of carrier where ring gear bolts up trued up on a lathe, clean slag and spatter out, then reassemble rear axle. Backlash will need to be adjusted.
Standard MIG wire is for mild steel, not properly compatable with the steel used for the gears or the carrier, although many a rear has been welded with MIG. If you must weld in the car, be sure to ground directly to the carrier itself, so the current doesn't pass through the bearings.
For more discussion of this topis you can see Welding Teck at
www.florida4x4.com/phpBB/

[Trusty258]

What is the number on the Super missile welding rod? most rods have a number of some sort- Is it a carbon steel rod stainless or a nickel/iron rod?
Thanks

Jesse

[jeepsr4ever]

are you seriously going ro weld a rear with a arc welder? I cant imagine tracing all that slag and getting it all out of the pumpkim, but then again i have never welded a rear with a stick

[Toy Maker]

Supermissle Weld rod does not go by a number like normal rods- and is byno means a "normal" rod. Check out Super Missle and Ultra Super Missle Weld at
www.jwharris.com/welref/techguide/steel_cover/#1
Also available as wire- see
www.jwharris.com/images/pdf/3-smw.pdf
Properly done, the welds with SMW or 7018 will self de-slag, requiring minimal cleaning by bead blast or ultrasonic if the carrier is removed and stripped. I do not weld gears in the housing except in the field for emergency use, although I have wilded more than I care to remember laying on a sheet of plastic in the mud beside a pond. Under these conditions, cleanliness is not usually the customers priority, it is getting back into the frey after breaking the spyder gears, if the axle gears are intact. Choices of rod are usually slim to none, sometimes bare wire. Yee-haa.
"Take It Out And Stick It" :twisted:

[jeepsr4ever]

YEHAAWW :lol:

[Trusty258]

looks like good stuff, but i cant justify spending money on rods, when I can get a hold of fistfulls of 7018 for free at school and have a 50 lb box of 11018-M -Milspec, Subwire, low alloy low hydrogen- So I think that I could do a decent Job with that.

anyways, this is all a ways a head of me yet. I may end up going for a ride tomorrow after a freebie SJ. That and the Cars not legal, and I cant get the welder to it, excuses excuses. at worst i go after it with some 6010 for the root passes and a couple covers of a Lo-hy rod.

Jesse

[FrankNB]

Just to add to this topic.. we welded mine with a stick, spiders only, from inside the housing... It broke like 3 times, I finally gave it to my friend who build armor for tanks, he mig welded it solid to the case.. When your weld lets go from the spiders, chances are you're gonna ruin something in there... So it's more cost effective to do it the right way first..