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Trusty258
06-07-2003, 07:09 AM
I recently aquired a T-150 (in a box) and Am having trouble with the Snaps that Hold the 3rd gear selector collar in place. Its hard to describe, But the 3rd gear shift collar captures thes snaps and the snaps help to locate the shift collar.
I have assembled the gearbox on the bench and have shifted it through the gears, and inevitably about the fourth or fifth shift into 3rd it will balk and refuse to go into 3rd. upon removing the shift cover, I find two of the snaps in the bottom of the gearbox.
Do i need thes things or is there something Im doing wrong? Im putting the outer tension ring in like it shows in the Chiltons manual I have.

My other question is about the snap rings this thing uses, I cant get the rings back on! Especialy the little ones. I got the bigger ones on but the little one that holds the input shaft into the front bearing is being very stubborn. These rings have no eyelets and are very stiff. Can I substitute 'regular' snap rings for these?

Thanks In advance
Jesse

Trusty258
06-08-2003, 06:40 PM
I figured it out. I was missing the front syncro ring.

Now I just gotta figgure out those Damn snap rings, and get a reverse idler Shaft.

Jesse

jeepsr4ever
06-09-2003, 04:00 PM
dang i dont know about the 150........sorry never liked the 3 speed but people who visit here and dont post might know, or fuzz might, hes a knowledgable guy

Trusty258
06-09-2003, 09:18 PM
I like it because its free, and I bethca that i could rock the Jeep like a crazy man with the pattern its got R-1-2-3. Ive got the gearbox. Now I just need to find a jeep. :roll: a CJ 5 or 7 with no motor and No gearboxes is exactly what i need. I'll call a Junkyard, or rebuild one of the other frames. Hmmm. CJ From the ground up with Scout 44s welded/locked. SOA, and a beat steel body.

This I could do. I jsut need someone that wants to get rid of this stuff for next to free.

Hmmmmmm.

Jesse

fuzz401
06-09-2003, 10:45 PM
the 2 rings go on the inside of the of the synch- the 3 little clips there is a lip on these and the spring goes there on each side under the lip to keep them from moving when you go fro gear to gear you might want to look at the smal teeth on the gears 1-2-3 if they are chiped or rounded out it might start to jump out of gear same with the brass blocking rings to

fuzz401
06-09-2003, 10:50 PM
the rings with the points on them use a special pliers flat on the end with a dot in the flat to put the point of the snap ring - in i think i got mine at sears a long time ago other wise they can be a real pain to get back on

fuzz401
06-09-2003, 10:54 PM
when you put the needle bearings in use vasoilen and not grease and the last roller will snap into place kind of hard might have to use a pliers to pop it in place and keep the rest there to

fuzz401
06-09-2003, 11:00 PM
not that i have ever done any of this well mabe 2 or 3 times :D they will take a fairly good beating did with my 304 and 360 1 st to rev you can rock real good to it took a lot of 2500 to 3000 netural drops with 36 swampers on black top rear did not do to good or drive shaft 2 1/2 twist snaped the output shaft on the model 20 tc - split the carrier in a md 20 in half

Trusty258
06-10-2003, 01:28 PM
the previous owner said that it took 4 hi cluthc dumps on pavement witha 350 and 31s all day long.

Jesse

Trusty258
06-11-2003, 05:11 PM
why vasoline?

Thanks
Jesse

fuzz401
06-11-2003, 05:23 PM
it will melt down in the gear oil and let the oil lube it a standard thing with trannys when rebuilding them hope this info helped you any other ques ask or drop me a line

Trusty258
06-12-2003, 06:05 AM
Ive been using Chevron grease. Its an industrial stuff, but its kinda runny for grease.

Jesse

fuzz401
06-12-2003, 06:30 AM
if it dont clog the oil holes in cluster gears it might work if it does could whipe out the needles

Trusty258
06-12-2003, 04:16 PM
its pretty slippery runny stuff for grease (its prolly broken down over the dozen years or so weve had it) the needles will run out quite easily if the input shaft is tiped up. I think what I'll do is just do a short hop with a mix of 10-40 and ATF and then fill it up with whatever's supposed to be in it. BTW what is supposed to be init? 10-40 or Gear lube?

Thanks

Jesse

fuzz401
06-12-2003, 05:01 PM
same as a rear 80-140

Trusty258
06-12-2003, 08:38 PM
That stuff gets pretty greasy when its cold, I think I'll be Ok. Its not together yet (Im waiting for my Idler gar shaft to come in from 4WD hardware) So, when I do my final assembly I may scrape out the Grease and slap in the Vaselene.

Jesse

Toy Maker
06-13-2003, 05:21 AM
It's a chemical thing...
Vaseline is chemically compatable with all petroleum based lubes, as it has no additives. It is relatively pure petroleum jelly, where as grease is a base stock of thickeners meant to hold oil in position (suspension) with additives to acheive the proper lubricating characteristics. That is how they get the different grades of grease, with different formulas. The additives of petroleum based grease are not chemically compatible with the additives in engine, compressor, ATF, gear lube, or pretty much anything else but grease of the same grade. There are sometimes chemical incompatability issues with certin metals as well. There are exceptions, like Auto Trans Assembily lube, and Amsoil Multipurpose Grease, which have broad spectrum compatability, however it is safest to use Vaseline if you are not sure. Just don't try to use it for engine assembily lube.

fuzz401
06-13-2003, 05:52 AM
nice detailed reply I just could not put it that way :)

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