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View Full Version : Shortening A REAR axle at home here is how


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jeepsr4ever
10-19-2003, 12:54 PM
Because of the tons of emails and questions about this I am posting how to do this at home, keep in mind it is just for the tube and housing, but you can get your stock axle shortened for less than 100 bucks from moser and other manufacturers, I am not setup right now for the resplining but ive done it dozens of times.you can use this simple tech and apply it to dana 60's 70's or any other standard light duty rear axel
Here i start with a waggie 44 from a quadra-trac Jeep with the brakes,carrier and axles out
http://www.imgbay.com/sites/mpcrescenzo///axleshort.jpg
http://www.imgbay.com/sites/mpcrescenzo///axleshort2.jpg
http://www.imgbay.com/sites/mpcrescenzo///alxeshort3.jpghttp://www.imgbay.com/sites/mpcrescenzo///axleshort4.jpg

jeepsr4ever
10-19-2003, 04:02 PM
most people have heard or are telling others that you need a huge press to press the tubes in and out, although i will clarify by saying they are a press fit, they are easily taken in and out it you apply heat to the pumpkin, this causes thermal expansion of the casting

scramblr
10-20-2003, 10:28 PM
Not to step on your toes MC but I just wanted to add one thing, make sure your tubes are straight when they go back in before you weld. A tube slightly off can cause your seals to leak. Just my .02

Mike :D

jeepsr4ever
10-21-2003, 07:54 AM
True in some cases however when a dana 44 tube is pushed into the pumkin their is 21.68 square inches of surface contact and with the tube being the same diameter all teh way down a little rust is allowable, how much is too much.......not sure but larger axle modifiers use the same tech...LOL even if it seems a little crazy.

This type of axle shortening is BEST used on a full floating axle in my opinion, but i have never had a seal or bearing problem when ive done this

motorcycle
01-15-2005, 11:02 PM
I just wanted to thank you for providing the info and how to get the axles out and help those that follow doing this crap for themselves.I know I couldnt afford spending big dollars to have some jerk with the right tools do it.LOL.
I wanted to add that when doing my Dana 60 I cut all teh weld out like mentioned above and then I took a rotary file and cleaned the slag off the side, I heated the housing like it says and proceeded to beat the @hit out of the spring perch hoping this would cause the axle to pop out. I finally realized this was pointless and thought hell I'll convert my big 50 ton wood splitter into an axle press and teach this damn thing who's boss!!!! :(: Well before I did all that work I went down and bought the shortest bottle jack I could find and cut a 2.75" round piece of half inch plate and I positioned the jack inside the housing and placed the round piece of steel between the jack and the axle tube and took up the slack.applying a small amount of pressure to the axle tube from inside. I then heated the case and started jacking the little 6 ton hydraulic bottle jack. The axle tube came out with ease!!!!!!! I did the same on the other side and it was a snap!!! It took about 30 mins. to do both sides once the welds were cut and ground.the most time was getting everything positioned, you have to have the jack/axle upright (verticle)so the damn thing will have fluid to press. I hope that I have helped someone out there by sharing this priceless knowledge........best of luck! :sa:

jeepsr4ever
01-16-2005, 10:53 AM
Wow nice....Should have documented your progress with pictures. :t:

motorcycle
01-16-2005, 12:57 PM
Well I might do that , I am now forced to have the tube turned (otherwise I don't think it will go into the housing again. The tube is 3.12 " and it was turned down to 3.06" on the last 4.5 inches! Have you had this problem before?

jeepsr4ever
01-16-2005, 01:33 PM
yes lots....but we have a machine shop here :-|

motorcycle
01-16-2005, 03:35 PM
I'm jealous, that's gonna be my next toy is a Bend lathe. I was wondering something about the axles......there is a 10th of an inch difference in the diameter of the 30 spline axle (bigger where the splines are). I am wondering if the material is pushed out when it's splined causing a bigger O.D. or am I going to need new axles or material added? I was told that the axles could be used when shortening a Dana 60. Also I was wondering with all the talk of running 35 spline axles if these are going to be strong enough....it's just a lil flatfender with a Vortech V6, 5.38 gears.....Detroit in the rear. This isn't going into competition.just a driver that I can take on trails in the summer.

jeepsr4ever
01-16-2005, 03:55 PM
Depends on if the pslines are rolled or cut. Rolled splines actually raise the material where cut plsines simply cut the existing. You will probly be alright with cut splines

canuck
04-20-2005, 11:08 AM
Nobody mentioned when you put in back in do you weld in the burn out spots?

jeepsr4ever
04-20-2005, 11:21 AM
Absolutely...we use a Jig when we do it here

canuck
04-20-2005, 11:31 AM
I have a couple of questions.
What type of weld process did you use being it's cast to steel?
Is there any how to shorten the axle info?

jeepsr4ever
04-20-2005, 11:36 AM
You can send your shaft to Moser or and of the axle companies and have it cut down. You can use industry std. mild steel wire on the tube to housing as the materials are VERY close to each other.

bushwackertn
01-22-2006, 03:44 PM
I would love to have that Info., it is all red "x"'s though.

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