PDA

View Full Version : crank trigger bracket


Bulltear Ad
Bulltear Ad

kirkwood
12-04-2003, 08:20 PM
How about a crank trigger set up for amc? A little out of the realm of you jeepers, but I don't think it would be hard to make a mount the MSD flying magnet trigger, maybe use the fuel pump bolts? You may be able to redrill a SBC wheel, too.

jeepsr4ever
12-04-2003, 11:51 PM
Not exactly out of the realm of jeepers but a good idea, I have done port injection on AMC R4B's and we are going to offer these with manifolds soon..............and less than edelbrock

diddycj5
12-05-2003, 09:54 AM
Not exactly out of the realm of jeepers but a good idea, I have done port injection on AMC R4B's and we are going to offer these with manifolds soon..............and less than edelbrock

I would definitely buy an EFI system for my 360 project. Let me know when you get this ready.

Tigger
12-05-2003, 10:15 AM
Not exactly out of the realm of jeepers but a good idea, I have done port injection on AMC R4B's and we are going to offer these with manifolds soon..............and less than edelbrock

I would definitely buy an EFI system for my 360 project. Let me know when you get this ready.

Ditto - just change 360 for 401

jeepsr4ever
12-05-2003, 10:18 AM
The real Bad A## stuff is on its way soon, I need to buy another TIG welder for the Port manifols though..maybe a month away or so

diddycj5
12-05-2003, 10:40 AM
I will start saving the bones for a manifold. It might be worth buying at least the fuel rails through you that match the manifold. Any ideas about a bulltear throttle body? I was looking at either the holly or Force fuel injection http://www.force-efi.com. But they are way too expensive. Force whats ~$3k to modify a manifold and supply the fuel rails and throttle body. The throttle bodies are $600 alone!

jeepsr4ever
12-05-2003, 10:45 AM
you know i never thought about making throttle bodies

Yeah fuel rails are easy to make, The harder part is putting a nice hole in the intake and tig welding it without any cracks. BUT ive done it and i want to offer the service soon as well as do it yourself kits.

diddycj5
12-05-2003, 11:04 AM
you know i never thought about making throttle bodies

Yeah fuel rails are easy to make, The harder part is putting a nice hole in the intake and tig welding it without any cracks. BUT ive done it and i want to offer the service soon as well as do it yourself kits.

The throttle body would need trottle position and air temp sensors. It is possble to buy off the shelf components but not sure what ones are available.

My scout buddy has a $4K Miller TIG so I could do it myself with a kit. How precise do the intake holes have to be located? Can this be done with a drill press or is a mill needed to get exact hole location? I have never TIGd cast aluminum myself, but I have heard that if you preheat it to about 400deg before welding and then post heat and slowly cool that it will be less likely to crack.

www.force-efi.com/parts.htm has a kit of fuel rails & injector bosses but they charge ~$100-150 for it. The injector bosses are probably a $1 part to make with a lathe.

jeepsr4ever
12-05-2003, 11:26 AM
Preheating the cast is not neccesary if it is over 70 degrees when you start welding, but after each spud is welded in oyu need to let it cool for 5-8mn

If you do it yourself you dont need precise hole because you can easily fill gaps and voids created by drilling or air tool, which maybe be a dremel in your case. But you dont need precise holes. I use a fuel rail Jig that simulates the actual rail, but you amy be alright if you use your usable rail

Lifted79CJ7
12-06-2003, 12:37 AM
Man, I can't wait to see this stuff! So thinking about giving Edelbrock a run for their money, eh?? :? You should give us a few sneak peeks... :idea:
Jack

jeepsr4ever
12-06-2003, 12:40 AM
Picture this Jack a sheet metal intake with rails on both sides and runners that go strait up from the port leaving the whole inside of the intake valley open for whatever, very elegant very potent, and i am making a 401 air cleaner one that i shaped like the original 401 emblem..........hope to work with K&N on that one

Lifted79CJ7
12-06-2003, 01:05 AM
OK, you have me more excited than Wiley Cyote about to catch the road runner........

Holeshot
01-30-2004, 07:22 PM
I don't see where anybody has posted any info as to what will be used for the brain box. Any ideas, there? (is it EFI or mechanical?)

As far as the butterfly(ies) go, it seems like that would depend on if your building an all-out screamer, or a throttle-responsive gas miser. The miser should have 4 butterflies with the secondaries opening only after the primaries are nearing WOT. Or how about an inline, progressive, one-barrel, two barrel, three barrel four?? That would be great for the rock climbers and misers. Not too hard to engineer, either.

For the race car, a single huge (4-inch, or so) hole would be best. Look at Ron's "Flying Toilet", from Ron's Racing Products.
http://www.ronsfuel.com/img4.gif

Here's a blurb I grabbed at http://www.ronsfuel.com/page10.html

Let me first WARN you that the negative health effects of alky (for fuel) are cumulative, and can cause insanity, blindness, and death!!! Be CAREFULL. I do believe that it will penetrate latex gloves - use thick rubber gloves when handling, and avoid breathing exhaust fumes.
************************************************** ***********
We are often asked, "Why should I switch to alcohol from gas and from a
Carburetor to fuel injection?" Here's why.

1. To alcohol from gas:
a. Alcohol burns more slowly so it doesn't build as much engine heat each run.
1. Thus it is easier to cool the engine between rounds, and;
2. Higher compression ratios allowed {up to 16:1 ok, 13.8:1 is our ideal} though not required; it works great on 10:1 motors too!
b. Alcohol is less flammable, it's safer and easier to handle.
1. Alcohol is colorless when it burns so take care.
c. It's cheaper; although you will use more, it costs less per gallon.
d. Engine lasts longer
e. The switching process requires:
1. Good fuel line fittings {preferably anodized aluminum}.
2. A plastic fuel cell or hard-anodized aluminum fuel tank.
3. Top lube for fuel helps prevent corrosion and lubes the valve stems.
4. One full day at home working on the change once all parts are in place.
a. install parts
b. Remove intake manifold, drill 8 holes and tap for 1/8" pipe-90 degree runner path for nozzle bodies - set them to spray at the valve.
c. run return line to fuel tank
d. remove the electric fuel pump
e. put turn - outs on the exhaust system
f. if you have a fuel cell, call the maker to determine if the "balast" sponges are alcohol compatible, if they are not, have the maker recommend what to do.
5. You should also buy a 6 oz. Bottle of concentrated "fuel fragrance"; add to a 55 gallon drum of fuel, it gives burnt fuel a more pleasant cherry or grape smell.

2. To a Flying Toilet, 4 - Shooter, or Terminator manifold fuel injector
from a carburetor.
a. No special manifold is required; if you're running a large four barrel {750, 850, or Dominator} now, our stuff bolts right on {see "4.b." above for slight alteration}.
b. Higher fuel pressure and cooler operation makes the engine much less subject to air pressure and humidity changes.
c. Typical gains are .25-seconds e.t. improvement and .05-seconds quicker in the first 60 feet.
d. Many fewer tuning changes are required throughout the weekend.
e. The car becomes a much more consistent performer.

Although it is not required, we recommend you install a surge tank in front of the engine on a door car. If gas will gravity feed to the point where the alcohol fuel pump will be mounted, this installation is not required.
************************************************** ***********
PS: This thread was started for a crank trigger bracket, why don't we move it over to it's own "F.I." thread, eh?

Bulltear Ad