Heat and Heater Box

[XtremeOverKill]

I'm not sure if this belongs in product ideas, or the fabrication section.

MC move this to your discretion as you see fit.

I’m looking for a way to get more heat out of the heater box, while maintaining a 185 degree T-stat.

So here’s my idea, find a way to feed the heater box from the line coming out of the engine, instead of having it to be fed by the line going into the engine from the radiator.

Do you think the heater box could handle the extra temps, and BTW what kind of exit and entry water temps are we talking about, coming out of the engine?

Perhaps this could be as simple as tapping into the bottom line of the radiator, and matching this up with the supply line no the Heater Box.

Respectful comments appreciated:
Mike

[jeepsr4ever]

Mike i like your comments and your way of thinking

a couple of things here

1. you can retrofit a early wagoneer heating duct system into a CJ (pics soon)
2. The heater rout goes from water pump to heater element back to the back of the intake of AMC V8's.

Abetter way would be to route some steam from the exhaust maniflods to a element that could have a steam release when the other heater kicked in warm air.

[XtremeOverKill]

Heres a hot idea....

How about finding a way to get a heater feed through the tapped holes in the rear portion of the engine.... The drain screws I beleive they are referd to. How about taking the screws out, and inserting a NPT pipe on either or both sides of the block, that would feed the heater box, and then instead of returning to the intake manifold, go to the radiator.

does anyone have a flow diagram of the water that runs through the block? I would be interested in looking further into this. I'm tired of being warmed up by the heater thats only marginally warmer than the air outside.

Or ok here's another ?... how much is a new heater box... Is it possible that I'm not pushing as much water through my heater core as I used to ? Being that it's stoped up or whatever?

[Rocky]

Your heater core may be partially clogged. A flush, or repalcement will cure that. Or, the blend air door in your heater box may not be functioning properly. Its job is to blend warm air from the heater core w/ fresh outside air to give the desired temperature. If it isn't closing the outside air off completely at the highest temperature setting, it won't give you the highest available heat.

[Rocky]

BTW... I don't think I'd want to tap into the block drain holes. It's not a good idea to mess w/ the coolant flow in a block... You don't want to cause big temperature variations within adjacent areas of the block, nor possibly inhibit the flow patterns.

[Rocky]

Here's another idea... do what the long-haulers do in cold weather... Use external flaps to restrict airflow to the radiator. This might not be such a wild idea.. If it's cold enough outside, and your cooling system is efficient enough, you may be barely getting coolant temperatures high enough to keep the thermostat open.
Many years ago when I used to run vehicles known for their cold bloodedness (they would balk at acceleration, no matter how much choke they were given) I'd let 'em warm w/ the grill covered. It got the engine up to running temp in a reasonably quick time, and the beasts would run fine from the moment I set out.
If all else is ok w/ your cooling and heating systems, then restricting the intake of air over the radiator while driving would give you a better heat source, yet (as long as it was cold enough outside.. and why else would you be using the heater) there would be no detrimental effect on engine cooling.

[jeepsr4ever]

Rocky has a point

Another way is to run a electric fan that only operates when the temp is up this will give you great initial warm up and free up a couple of horses

[Mudrat]

I've used cardboard in the past when it's been snowing and stuff. I also just did the heater fan conversion to both Jeeps. Installing a Chevy blower in place of the Jeep fan motor. It's not a hard mod to do and the basics are here http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/heater.html. I had to turn down the shaft to fit the squirrel cage, but with a battery charger providing the 12VDC and some good files, it made the motor into it’s own lathe :?
The result is about 30% more air thru the heater box and the defrost.

Mudrat

[Rocky]

Yeah- I've done the Chevy blower motor conversion, too. Yours is the first I've heard that had to have the shaft turned down. I've heard of some people having trouble w/ the shaft being too long. Mine was a straight bolt-in.. just had to enlarge the opening on the CJ's firewall.
'Course, if you're not gettin' enough heat to it, it doesn't matter how hard the blower blows!

[Mudrat]

Yeah- I've done the Chevy blower motor conversion, too. Yours is the first I've heard that had to have the shaft turned down. I've heard of some people having trouble w/ the shaft being too long. Mine was a straight bolt-in.. just had to enlarge the opening on the CJ's firewall.
'Course, if you're not gettin' enough heat to it, it doesn't matter how hard the blower blows!

Well, um....yeah. I haven't had either of these on the road in the cold yet :smile:
Both motors had the same problem - when I mounted the fan it was too deep and bound up inside the heater box. I had to turn 3/8 in off the shaft and file the flat back just as far to slide the fan closer to the motor. They also have the 'drain hole' in the motor body that I covered with a piece of 301 stainless bent to fit and sealed with some rubber gasket. Wonder why the difference :?: ??
'Rat

[Rocky]

I should have made a note of which motor I used. I did special order a higher end motor (Modine?) than the "offshore" generic model.
Some mfrs. show different #s for various applications (AC/no AC, HD/non HD, etc.) Other mfrs. supply one # for all applications.. Maybe the difference isn't so critical for the Chev applications, but of course is for the Jeep transplant.
My motor came w/ the drain hole.. I've heard that there are some out there that don't, but I haven't come across one. I plugged it w/ a plastic plug (the hole's a common size) and a little sealer.

[Rocky]

Oh... Yeah... I see from your last post that by "turning down" the shaft, you removed length from it (am I right?) If so, that's the same prob I've heard that others have had. (I originally thought you meant you had to turn down the diameter of the shaft.)

[Mudrat]

Oh... Yeah... I see from your last post that by "turning down" the shaft, you removed length from it (am I right?)
Well, no. Not really. The new motor had a larger diameter shoulder on the shaft that acted as a stop when you pressed on the fan. I had to turn that down to match the diam of the standing part that fits into the fan, and then file the flat keyway to slide the fan down. Shaft length really isn't the problem since there are several inches between the motor and the box.
I should have taken pics of the process - didn't think it was that important, but the "How To" didn't mention it either. Didn't take long and was a faily simple deal - mic the shaft make sure you've got the same diameter when you turn it down, file the flat and then polish it up some and you're done. I got both motors from Pep Boys ($18 new) and I think they are Sieman's or something like that.

Mudrat

[Rocky]

Siemens is good quality stuff (always a surprise to see good stuff from Pep Boys!). They are one of the Mfrs. who list several different #s for the motors (depending on whether they're for AC/not, HD/not, etc.) It'd be nice to find out which one of their #s (if any) is the direct fit.