360 rebuild advice

[diddycj5]

I am still investigating parts for my 360 rebuild/swap and am trying to determine how exotic I am wanting to go. I will be swapping out the 360 for a tired 304. All of this is going into a '74 cj5 that only is my wheelin toy. (not a daily driver - but I do have to drive it to trails). I definitely want to be 300-350+hp but dont need to get over 400hp - it would be nice though.

Currently I have already bought a Mallory Unilite/coil/hyfire system (all new in box). I already have Hedman in-frame headers & dual 2.5in exhaust with dynomax mufflers with my 304.

I actually have 2 different 360 blocks - so hopefully I should have enough parts for one engine (after that, I will be giving away extra pieces) Both engines came out of wagoneers.

1st 360: Not sure what year - told that it smoked but ran ok. 2V stock maifold (Is there a difference between 2V and 4V heads?). The bad thing is that this engine sat outside for a couple of years and water got in the intake/heads/& couple of cylinders. I have torn this engine apart and the #4/5 cylinders have some rust but don't look overly pitted.
2nd 360: 75 engine with stock 4V manifold. The iffy part of this engine was that the last time it ran - the carb leaked fuel and caught fire. I dont think the engine fire was too bad since the coolant and oil still were fluid.

In picking between blocks/heads/cranks/etc what should I look for with each engine - since they both had some tradegy before I got them?

Here is the setup I am debating:
Intake: Edlebrock performer manifold & ~600cfm Eldebrock carb BUT I really want Edelbrock EFI - MC price $$?
Valvetrain: probably RV type cam for 1500-5000rpm,hydralic lifters, roller timing chain, new valves, springs, etc. I am thinking about 1.6:1 roller rockers just for fun. Is there any advantage with hardened pushrods - I dont recall ever seeing pushrod guides available for amcs. I am planning on getting all head work done/3angle valve grind & polishing the valves. Is it necessary to have hardened valve seats pressed in on 360 heads - I had them done on a ford302 I once rebuilt.
Block: bore .030 or .040 over, decked, honed, hottanked - the works. Thinking about the oil valley bypass kit.
Crank: probably have the journals re-machined.
Rods: probably keep stock & regrind journals & magiflux.
Pistons: Here is where I am pretty clueless. It seems like there isnt too much selection for 360s (comp/forged/etc). I probably am looking at 8.5-9.5 compression and cast pistons/rings - since I haven't found forged 360 pistons anywhere or moly rings (plus the co$t). What are decent brands or distributors for pistons?
Oil pump: Bulltear gears & possibly nickle plated timing cover if my 2 covers are shot.
Cooling: flowkooler water pump & possibly get either a new aluminum or 4core radiator.

I am planning on having the engine balanced & am wondering if there is any need to go for the $300 performance harmonic balancer. Since I am swaping out the eninge instead of pulling it to rebuild, I can take my time to save for the parts and spend a bit more. I would like to spend $1-2K unless I go for the EFI - damn I wish we knew how much those are going to be...

[fuzz401]

2v or 4v heads there is no diff the only diff is weather it has screw in studes or not for the rockers
rv cam i would look at a comp. 268 cam 500 or 650 cfm carb performer or airgap intake
all amc v-8 are 1.6:1 rockers guide plates depends on the heads with screw in studes not needed till .550 lift bridged rockers some say yes some say no would be extra machine to instale them and screw in studes

go .30 over stay under 9.5 cr

lifter vally oil lin kit a must !

have it balanced stock balancer is ok as long as the rubber is ok pistons out there could be a bit pricey due to being a amc

[jeepsr4ever]

The 360 with the water in it might have a good core on the crank and block and heads and the rods are probly good but if you are serious and ready look for forged pistons for that 360 you will not be let down.

you can get 350hp without too much trouble with a good cam but its torque that we are searching for on this one, Like Fuzz said a good rv camshaft is a great way to go, Look to 9 or mid 9's for the compression ratio, your heads are common like fuzz said no diff between the 2barrel and 4 barrel heads. Get your rods at least look at and checked for straitness. Also make sure to get the block prepped right for the rebuild.

You might want to look into upgrading that rear end after you do this as the 360 will ablsolutely knock that 304 out ....

[fuzz401]

oil line mod to do http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v11/fuzz401/dcbbb7f1.jpg

less friction http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v11/fuzz401/288c33c7.jpg
[/url]

[redneckjeeper]

diddycj5--you are talking about doing your 360 up just as i have just finished my 73cj5 and i bored it .030 over , i had to order my pistons and stainless valves,hardened pushrods and guides from www.jegs.com and i also used sum-8601 camshaft sum-ht2011 lifters crn-99957 springs crn-99042 valve locks and crn-11746 roller rockers, i also used and older offenhauser dual port 4v intake that i had laying around and put and eldebrock850 carb on it and boy does it scream. yes i had to have the heads machined to accept the 7/16 studs for the roller rockers but they were in there for the 3 angle valve job and new valves and all and yes if i remember right the machine shop hit me $350.00 for all the machining and installing all parts to the heads. I feel you are on the right track and if you are going to rebuild it do it right or dont do it. i think i have about 1800.00 in parts and machine work in this 360 but i get all my parts at a discount since i own my own shop.. But heck it is a play toy and built to have fun with.. :!: :?

[Mudrat]

oil line mod to do http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v11/fuzz401/dcbbb7f1.jpg
less friction http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v11/fuzz401/288c33c7.jpg
[/url]
fuzz
1978 jeep had since 1979
401 .030 flat tops full floating pistons
and it does rumble
th-400
30 front 44 rear 4:56 gears
Moderator
Geez Fuzz... define RUMBLE :? :lo1l:

'Rat

[diddycj5]

diddycj5--you are talking about doing your 360 up just as i have just finished my 73cj5 and i bored it .030 over , i had to order my pistons and stainless valves,hardened pushrods and guides from www.jegs.com and i also used sum-8601 camshaft sum-ht2011 lifters crn-99957 springs crn-99042 valve locks and crn-11746 roller rockers, i also used and older offenhauser dual port 4v intake that i had laying around and put and eldebrock850 carb on it and boy does it scream. yes i had to have the heads machined to accept the 7/16 studs for the roller rockers but they were in there for the 3 angle valve job and new valves and all and yes if i remember right the machine shop hit me $350.00 for all the machining and installing all parts to the heads. I feel you are on the right track and if you are going to rebuild it do it right or dont do it. i think i have about 1800.00 in parts and machine work in this 360 but i get all my parts at a discount since i own my own shop.. But heck it is a play toy and built to have fun with.. :!: :?

Are you sure about the roller rocker part number? jegs.com show that that is a 1.6 ratio 3/8" stud rocker. the 7/16" stud is p/n 11747. Also, is there really any difference between 3/8" and 7/16" studs when selecting. I was probably going to have new threaded studs installed anyway so I am looking at machining cost either way on the studs.

Also, what pistons did you go with? That seems to be one of the biggest problems with rebuilding 360's. The lack of piston availablity.

[diddycj5]

oil line mod to do http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v11/fuzz401/dcbbb7f1.jpg

less friction http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v11/fuzz401/288c33c7.jpg
[/url]

Fuzz, what roller rockers are those? I am pretty sure I will do the oiling mod, but am still trying to find decent/less cost rockers (under $250). Also, what is the difference - if any - between aluminum versus stainless roller rocker arms?

[fuzz401]

thouse are crower rockers not cheap 300.00 for the set i think they are made for amc some places use chevy or ford rockers when they say amc
alum lighter -- stainless heavyer but i think stronger in my opin

3/8 is stock on a lot of motors 7/16 is better for higher revs again in my opin

[diddycj5]

I was wondering if chevy or ford 1.6 ratio rockers would work...

What exactly is the difference between stud rockers and bridged? I don't recall ever seeing bridged roller rockers being made. Are the stock stamped steel rockers considered 'bridged':
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453890832

Probably a stupid question - but what are polylocks? It seems like most roller rocker sets come with them - are they a better kind of adjustable lock nut?

Also what do you think about:
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2454002692
I have never heard of that brand, but ~$200 might not be too bad for stainless steel roller rockers. - but I kinda prefer sticking to brand names I trust (crane/comp/eldebrock/crower/etc)

[redneckjeeper]

diddy you are right, the part number is cr11747 and i got them from summit racing which is only 23 miles from where i live and i just checked and they are $195 and they were 7/16 stud.. I cant remember the web site that i got my pistons from but i use to belong to and amc forum and i got the web site from there, I will do some checking and find out the website and post it later to nite.

[fuzz401]

what rockers in the e-bay are the bridged rockers used from 74 up
stud rockers are the rocker but has a 1/2 ball in the rocker and they can be adjusted bridged can not be adjusted

never heard of the cat brand eather I like to stay with name brands to

polylocks if you look at the link to my rockers they are on it a long nut with a set screw in the top to lock down the nut from turning


I was wondering if chevy or ford 1.6 ratio rockers would work = they are close but not there some have used them with no problems

[redneckjeeper]

if you check summit racing website and check out part number crn-11747 they are for amc chevrolet and ford, I have used these sameones on my chevy pick up and my ford thunderbird, i talked to the crane rep on these roller rockers before using them on my amc 360 and he assured me that there is no difference in them.

[diddycj5]

I am always surprised when manufactures dont list that their part for one type of car will fit another. Instead, you have to call a rep to ask. It seems like they would sell more of their product if they would list everything that it would fit on. Then the manufacture wouldn't have to worry about developing a different part specificially for another type of vehicle. Stupid.

I am sure that there are other chevy/ford aftermarket parts that would work for AMC but unless you took the risk of buying it and tring it out - you wont know.

[fuzz401]

Geez Fuzz... define RUMBLE

'Rat


do I still need to define RUMBLE :-|

[Mudrat]

Geez Fuzz... define RUMBLE

'Rat


do I still need to define RUMBLE :-|
Well, ya know - it sorta sounded kinda asthmatic. Like maybe it wasn't breathing right, or the timing was off 8) :razz:

j/k
Sounded good, but like I said, umm, I DO understand rumble ;-)
75 CJ-5 with a 327, 4-bolt, 30 over, flat top pistons, ported/polished, torker intake, can't remember the cam or size valves (I paid someone to do that, tuff to do that kind of stuff in a barracks parking lot) 650 Holley, thornly wheel well headers, and "hush thrush" mufflers. Hush my A$$!!! Wheelies in 3 gears, U-joints about once a month and 3 drive shafts in a year ;-) Fortunately they went before the R&P or axle shafts!! And I do secretly yearn for "more power" but I start talking dumping 3-4 grand into another motor now and my wife threatens to neuter me to get me past that 'change in life' syndrome real fast ;-) So what she doesn't know, well I won't say here she might just read it!!

Mud :t: