HYDRAULIC CLUTCH

[pyagid]

OK i put another motor in my 1990 YJ that I have forsale b/c the kid that is buying it asked if while the motor is out i replace the clutch as well....so i said fine. I replace the clutch and hydraulic throw out bearing and not the clutch grans almost on the floor. And it is very difficult to get into first or reverse, acting like there is still air in the system., After bleeding it then driving it then bleeding it for close to 2 hours I am pretty positive there is no air in the system. Well i cant get anything but a solid stream of fluid to come out. Could there still be air in the system, any tricks to bleeding this? or could it be the wrong pressure plate or something that is on there and the throw out bearing is not depressing it all the way?


Any help will be appreciated

Paul

[mrtazwrench]

:-| DOES IT WORK ANY BETTER IF YOU PUMP THE CLUTCH A FEW TIMES? TRYING TO REMEMBER IF I HAD ANY TROUBLE WHEN I PUT THE TRANS IN MY COMANCHE, BUT THATS BEEN ALMOST 10 YEARS AGO, CHECK MOVEMENT OF THE SLAVE IF POSSABLE. DOES IT FEEL NORMAL?
AND I HATE TO ASK THE OBVIOUS, IS THE PILOT BEARING OK, DISC IN RIGHT? GOOD LUCK SORTING IT OUT! :t:

[Rocky]

Did you have the flywheel machined, and repalce the pilot bearing? Did you lubricate the input shaft splines? Any of these things, if not done, could also cause the problems you describe.

[pyagid]

yes i did all of the above. It has a hydraulic throw out bearing. SO there is not really a slave. And when bleeding we tried pumping a few times holding and also opeaning slamming to the floor and closing.

on my club board we have a Jeep specialty offroadshop/ mechanic. He said that the flywheels on those motors could really only be cut 1 time before they are to thin and will not allow enough movement of the pressure plate. He also suggest i jack up the rear of the vehicle and try to bleed it.


My other concern is the correct flywheel was not in the motor I took out. WHich i reused b/c the motor i was putting in did not have one on it.

I have not seen a flywheel in a 258 that looks like this
http://paulyagid.brinkster.net/pic/Tech/flywheelface.jpg
http://paulyagid.brinkster.net/pic/Tech/flywheelside.jpg

[mrtazwrench]

I WOULD GUESS THAT'S A 4.0 FLYWHEEL, LOOKS LIKE IT HAS THE NOTCHES FOR THE CRANK SENSOR. ON BLEEDING YOU COULD TRY PRESSING THE PEDAL DOWN ONE TIME WHILE OPENING THE BLEEDER UNTIL IT FEELS MORE FIRM, THAT IS IF IT FEELS ABNORMAL NOW, I USED TO DO THIS ON VW VANS THAT WERE HARD TO BLEED OUT.

[pyagid]

same guy in my club confirmed it was the correct flywheel that they used when the switchedc to the mitsubishi starter which was the same flywheel as used on the 4.0 I was thinking it may be a 4.0 flywheel as well b/c of the notches. Thanks for the tips hopefully all that the problem is, is air still stuck in there.

Paul

[Rocky]

Is the clutch disc facing the right direction?

[Holeshot]

What you need is a "pressure" bleeder. They should call it a vacuum bleeder because you hook it to your air compressor line and pull its trigger. As the air blows out, it creates a vacuum on the brake/clutch bleeder. We usually hook it to the highest bleeder and suck the new fluid up, but it will work either way. Another thing that needs to be done is to have a helper pumping the peddle, hold the pressure, then crack loose and tighten every fitting, one by one. Chances are you're gonna find air and then get a pedal.....Dave

[pyagid]

I will have to look into that. They guy buying the vehicle already picked it up. I will let him know about checking at all the fittings. He did not want to wait any longer for it. and the Clutch was working Just grabbing very low to the floor. But i will keep this in mind for next time i come across this problem

Paul