Steering Problems

[Rojo540]

Hey guys. I just put my new lift and 35's on about a month ago. Only problem is that now I can't take my car on the highway. It starts zig-zagging all over the road at about 40 mph :shock: . I rebuilt my steering box, and I put in a flaming-river steering shaft but it still hasn't fixed my problem. Any ideas of what I should try next? Thanks

James

[jeepsr4ever]

Rojo, have someone turn your wheel back and forth and you look at the steering parts, that is the best way of diagnosis

[Tigger]

Yep sounds like the larger tires have made worn steering components more noticable.

[fuzz401]

ck all the tie rod ends ball joints and look at the frame were the box bolts on to make sure it is not moving a lot the get a front end aliment to make sure the axel is not bent on one side or the other

[Dave Tickenoff]

Many times when you install a lift kit the caster can change and if you shim or otherwise tilt your front pumkin to provide a better drive shaft angle it will add positive caster. This will cause the problem that you are discribing.

Dave

[Rocky]

Ditto on checking the caster... However, positive caster is what you want. Shimming the axle to rotate the pinion up, or using longer shackles will both reduce positive caster (or induce negative caster).
Caster is what makes your wheels want to track in a straight line.
Check your steering and suspension for any play, then take the vehicle to an alignment shop to check the alignment.

[Dave Tickenoff]

Rocky is right positive is what you want shiming will give you negative.

Dave

[junkyard jim]

I didn't see what kind of vehicle?

[pitjeep]

i,m having a similar problem with my 79cj7 i changed the bushings to poly helped some couldn,t get out the main eyes out though any ideas all the steer stuff looks tight put Hd tie rod & Hd drag link also still wanders worse on rural rds could steer wheel contribute its only 10"

[Mudrat]

Hi PIT... did you try all of the above already? Especially the steering box wobble under load (dry tires turning side to side) , tie rod ends, etc? Shake the tires and see if the wheel berings are warn (you'll feel a slight 'bump' when you shacke the top of the tire) - next would be alignment $$$
Mudrat


i,m having a similar problem with my 79cj7 i changed the bushings to poly helped some couldn,t get out the main eyes out though any ideas all the steer stuff looks tight put Hd tie rod & Hd drag link also still wanders worse on rural rds could steer wheel contribute its only 10"

[GetrDone]

Rojo540,

What kind of a suspension lift did you get & how big? I had the exact same problem zig-zaggin all over the place. I just completed a 74 CJ5 resto. I replaced all steering and suspension components except for leafs. Thought they were still good. I upgraded tires from 30x9.5 to 33x12.5 and wow, was I wrong. The leafs were shot and my wheel bearings were worn. I replaced my wheel bearings and old 3" leafs w/ SkyJacker's 4" lift kit and and that got rid of 90% of the problem. I also replaced the stock steering wheel w/ a 14" dia. Grant. The smaller steering wheel does have a small impact on steering, not much though. Check your body spacers. If one side is worn, it'll cause you to lean to one side, affecting your steering when you break. By the way, I'm curious if you have front and rear sway bars. I don't and my CJ still feels a little sloppy. I'm bolting on a set in a couple of weeks. I'll let you know if it helps eliminate the extra play.

[Goose]

Two Things here.. one from a similar post we had a while back.. Chaeck the air pressure in your new bigger tires..If you are much over 30 psi it's gonna act way squirrely..That solved the last guys trouble seems he was running 45 or more psi..

Second.. GETRDONE where did you find sway bars for your CJ? I need a set and cant find them complete anywhere..

[bulletproofcj7]

Hi all, im new to the forum. lots of great info!

Something that gets over looked alot is the front axle u-joints. Even if the hubs are disengaged the u-joints still pivot when you turn the steering wheel, if they are frozen or not lubed properly they will stick, your steering wheel will have a difficult time returning to center as you drive down the road and you'll over compensate while steering causing the jeep to wonder back and forth down the road.
check that the shackle mounts to the frame are tight, the stock mounts also tend to flex alot with the bigger tires.

To get the main eye bushings out is a real pain! the best way i found to remove them is to drill and cut or melt the rubber with a propane or acetaline torch (messy and smelly) and pull out the center sleeve that the bolt fits through, then cut the outer sleeve from the inside out with a sawsall or hacksaw (carefull not to cut the spring) collapse the outer sleeve inside the spring and pull it out.

-Jason

[Mudrat]

Hi Steve - welcome to the board. Good thought on the u-joints, but that would create other problems and lead to joint failure as well.

Besides, we haven't heard from RoJo since he posted :-|

Drop into the General Chat thread and tell us about you and your rig.
OH! and don't forget to vote :lo1l:

Mudrat

[shawn]

Well said on the u-joints! I've said the same thing many times on the web, it happened to me.

But, it would be nice to know what kind of vehicle this fella is talking about. On my CJ with 4" springs, I have no sway bars and no track bars, and I can drive 80 mph with 35's and have absolutely now steering issues, drives great down the road (if only I could stop breaking things on the trail). I used Scout axles, so when I raised my pinion angle my caster went to poop. I took the "C's" off and welded them back on at about 78 positive caster. Caster is huge on lifted vehicles. Get the max caster and the minumun toe in.

If this is a vehicle with a coil set up, like a 5 link on TJ's, trckbars are a big issue. Make sure it's good, and set up correclty, may have to get an adjustable one. ANd with that setup, a drop pitman arm isn't the answer.