T-18 Tranny

I'm looking for a T-18 tranny in or close to Ohio.

I am assuming that you want one that does not need to be rebuilt.

Otherwise, my dad is storing a ford T-18 at my grandma's house in Cinci that he probably never use. I believe that it would need to be rebuilt and have either a Novak or Advance adapter kit though....

I wouldn't mind a rebuilder. I was planning on going through whatever I ended up with anyhow.
Would I need the adapter for the bell housing,transfer case,or both.
How much would you want for it?
Thanks

I will have to check with my dad to make sure that he is willing to sell it and what he would want for price. I don't think he will use it but he is sometimes weird about letting go of parts.

As for adapters:

Depending upon your current jeep application will determine if you need a new bellhousing. The bellhousing that came in 76 and later jeeps with the T-176/170 trannies can be used directly with the T-18 with no adapters. on my '74 cj5 with the t-15, I had to get a 76+ bellhousing. You need to very carefully drill and tap new holes in the bellhousing to line up with the T-18, but the depth of the bellhousing is correct with no adapters.

You will defintely need an adapter for the T-18 to tcase (whatever tcase you plan on using) D20/D300/etc. I believe that both the Novak and AdvanceAdapters kits have an new shorted output shaft for the tranny along with the adpater plate itself - so you are in for tearing the T-18 partially apart anyway to install the new output shart. For a D20, these kits are about $450.

Issues to consider:
I would mention that if you have a cj5, a D300 may not fit. The D20 adapter kit plate is only about 1in thick, but the D300 is around 3-4in thick. My rear drive shaft for my cj5 is only 17inch long (running length), and the U-joint angles are higher than they are supposed to be. I probably should have spent the money for a double-cardon rear drive shaft to reduce u-joint angles, but I carefully matched the angles between the axle and tcase yokes so I don't have too bad of drive shaft vibrations.

Also, the ford T-18 input shaft is slightly shorter than the jeep T-18 where the tranny rides in the pilot bushing. Make sure to get and use the new bushing from Novak or AA. this bushing does not sit as deep in the back of the crank on the engine and allows for the shorter shaft to work.

When I did this swap I also had to have my driveshaft lengths reworked (typically front shaft lengthened, and rear shaft shortened).

I also had to install a 1" body lift after doing the tranny swap. The T-18 is taller than my old tranny, and the T-18 was hitting the body of the jeep. (may not be as much of a problem in later CJ's since I believe that the hump over the tranny is larger. A 1" body lift was enough to get the body up off the tranny and remove that clearance issue. I also lowered the tranny by about half an inch at the crossmember.

I will check with my dad to see if he will sell that T-18. Either way, let me know what your jeep specs are and I can help talk you through the swap. (By the way there is a lot of misleading information online about this swap so be careful reading some of the writeups.)

This is by far the best thing that I ever did to my jeep for wheelin. I love my T-18.

Thanks for all the info. I have a 79 CJ5 that is going to have a 360 with a D-300 t-case. I have a T-150 bellhousing,but can get one from a T-176 if needed. It is going to have a 4 inch suspension lift and I was thinking about converting some D-44's to stuff under it.

From Novak's webpage about T-18's they say that the bellhousing bolt pattern is the same as the T-150/176, so you are good for that. You already will have the 76-79 clutch disk that is needed (I had to get a new clutch as well).

However, since you have a cj5, mating the D300 to the T-18 will create rear driveshaft issues. I believe that you have a slight advantage since the first year or so the output of the D300 was shorter than in later years. I would plan on a double cardon rear drive shaft if going with a D300.

The Novak adapter plate is 3.2". http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_183.htm
The AdvAdp kit is 3.25" . http://www.advanceadapters.com/catalog/016.html.

Something I found online after I did my swap might help you out with a shorter adapter:
http://www.tmcom.com/~rockhard/rock1.htm This is from a scout parts place, so I don't know if this would work for a Ford T-18. (I know that the International T-18/T-19 had different input shaft lengths and the output might also be different).

If you've not found a T18 yet I have one, need rebuild (gears look good syncros don't), that I was thinking about selling. I also have a D20 that appears to be good as well as a PTO for same.

How much would you want for it? I don't need the D20 or PTO. Also where are you located?
Thanks

I am bringing home a 1972 J-4000 this week end, if you are still looking for a T-18 I will have a complete Fly Wheel, Clutch (new) with T-18 bolted to it, with spacer, along with a (if interested) D-20 T-case. They have some miles on them but I know for a fact the truck is a one owner vehicle, and was very well maintained.