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Alright, just to be sure. What's the procedure to replace the oild dipstick? Take the pan off, tap the old one out.
But my question is, the new one has a curve at the bottom. Does the whole curve slide through the block all the way in to the point on the tube where there's a little shoulder and fat part.
I'm assuming the shoulder sits flush against the block and the fat part acts as a seal? Should I use RTV or something?
I couldnt tell you but I do know I had to JB my dipstick in when I rebuilt the motor. the PO must have replaced it with a parts store cheap one that didnt fit right
Make sure the pan is on when you install the dipstick tube. Put the dipstick in the tube when you slide it in. It has to go thru a smallish hole in the oil pan baffle and if you don't line it up right, you'll never get the dipstick in.
It should seal without sealant but a dab of RTV wouldn't hurt. The late repro sticks were too large where they press into the block, so you may need to file it down a bit, but it is a press fit. I've installed them by slipping a small box wrench around the tube then tapping the wrench to seat the tube.
Bob
tufcj
What a pita that dipstick issue was.
Anyway, we took the pan off and tapped the old one out, and sure enough there's a big gouge there probably from my last install in the driveway.
Anyway, my buddy is a very knowledgeable mecanic and the two off us just managed to destroy the new tube trying to put it in. So fragile. Then I get this idea.
That's when I looked over his shelf and saw the 3/8 thick wall fuel line. We drilled the block and gently tapped the fuel line in. There, homemade heavy duty oil dipstick and no more leaking. We put a hose clamp on the outside to prevent it from going deeper and we're going to secure it with a bracket.
This is much thicker and easy to replace if need be.
Next time you can slide a socket down over the tube that connects with the shoulder on teh new tube, then a larger socket over that to tap it in place - it'll take a while, but a lot less effort than drilling the block :wink:
Well, we thought about that but the problem is that the top part of the tube is fatter than ths rest of the tube. So, I don't see how a socket would work as you wouldn't be able to slide it down. Or maybe I'm just not seeing what you explained to me. I'm not that quick. I'll read it over a few times. We did mangle the shoulder all to shit by using a vise grip to hold it steady and tap with a hammer at the other end of a pry bar. Man, that sounds way worse than what it was. But anyway, I calculate that it's resolved for now.
Changed filters (wix all the way baby) and toilet paper roll(the nice and plumps stuff, I keep the cheap rough stuff for my butt #-o ), poured some 15w40 in there and no leaks so far. Crossing my fingers.
thanks for the input, I appreciate it.
Well, no leaks yet... bouhahahhaha... nice to have a non leaking motor..
now, if the rest of the drivetrain would do the same...