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I have a dana 20 transfer case mated to a T-18. Read somewhere that there is a shifter on the market that will allow you to shift 1/2 a notch "forward" of the 4-low position and disengage the front axle only. Does this ring a bell to any one?
My other choice is a twin stick which I would rather stay away from if possible.
Why? Twin sticking is cool! :t:Quote:
Originally Posted by juggernaught
2wd front or rear, 2WD Hi/Low, 4wd Hi/Low . . .
There are kits out there, just Google what your looking for.
+1 on the twin stick. Try it, You'll like it.
I've got my 300 twin sticked. It gives you 2 additional ranges over the single stick, 2WD low, and front wheel drive low. I use the 2WD low a lot on trails where 4WD isn't needed. With the hubs locked, a quick click of one stick, and you're in 4WD low even when moving.
Bob
tufcj
There is a little more to properly twin sticking a D20
Google for the shift rail modification. One of the shift rails require a minor modification or low range rear will like to pop into neutral under heavy load. (ask me how I know this :(: )
Other wise yes, twin sticking is way cool.
you can have two wheel low with the stock shifter if it is sufficiently sloppy. Mine you just push the stick till you feel it pop out of 4L but not quite to neutral the rear will still be engaged and you have 2L
can't imagine that you're getting full engagement on the gears... could create stress fractures and ultimately broken gear teeth. I could be wrong, just thinking out a little.
Full Dana 20 Manual
http://www.azbronco.com/dana20.htm
Pic of factory rail assembly
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...0be3671130.jpg
Pic of the D20 Shift Rail Mod
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...49dd7ec355.jpg
The grinding for the interlock pills is only required if you use the pills to keep you from shifting front low/rear high or vice versa.
If you leave the pills out, you can shift front and rear in opposite ranges for a redneck parking brake.
Most important is the long ramp on the rear shift rail. This needs to be built up with weld and then ground down to a nice U shape as seen opposite on the front shift rail. This prevents the t-case from walking out of rear low.
Thanks. Exactly what I needed to know.
And be sure all the notches line up right or they won't fit together on final assembly.
Don't ask :oops: Just trust me on this one. It'll save you from tearing the case back down to see WTF?! :oops: :oops: :oops: :razz: