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The Summit K8600 is a good cam, but may be a little too much for a 304. By a fair idle, they mean that lopey race car sound, with the long duration, it would have a lope to it. That's a better cam for 360-401. The other two look pretty good. Measure the pushrods, you'll want stock length with a simple rebuild.
This is the one I like: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2132
Valve springs need to be matched to your cam. Get springs that the cam manufacturer recommends or you void the warranty on your cam and risk rounding cam lobes. Get the roller timing chain, it's much better than a stock one. Pushrods and gasket kits can be sourced locally for about the same price. You'll need the intake valley gasket.
Bob
tufcj
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We are also taking the block to the machine shop for a hot tank and Cam bearing install. I don't want her to use old Cam bearings.
Now to remove the pistons and crank-then check the crank bearings.
If the crank bearings are bad (just say 1), can we just replace the one bearing or does the crank have to be turned.
Thanks
Jim
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On the suggestion of Break-in Oil.
Is that One quart added to the other four quarts, or is that six quarts total of break-in oil?
Thanks,
Jim
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Bob, with the install of the Cam on the post here. Should she degree her Cam or ?
Not even sure it can be done.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...de=A8CAMSHFTXE
Thanks,
Jim
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Cam and lifters look right. The rocker arms WON'T work on bridged rocker heads unless you have some machine work done and use guide plates. If there's nothing wrong with the bridged rockers, use them.
The stud holes have to be drilled/tapped to 7/16, and Chevy style studs installed. The pedestals need to be milled about .250" + the thickness of the guide plate you chose (generally about .375" total). Then you'll usually need a custom length pushrod. You generally get into it for about $400 in machine work and parts. The only rockers that will work without machining are Harland-Sharp. http://www.harlandsharp.com/amc_jeep_olds.htm
Break-in oil, just replace one quart of regular oil with the break in lube (5 quarts total), or use 5 quarts and this additive for the first couple of oil changes. http://zddplus.com/
Have the crank measured and see if it's still within spec, and check that the journals are still round. They tend to oval slightly with wear. When you're that far into it, a new set of main and rod bearings isn't a huge additional investment. You can replace just 1 bearing, but chances are if a bearing is that bad, the crank will need turning.
I wouldn't worry about degreeing a cam for a daily driver. Slap it in at the "0" setting (not advanced or retarded) and run it. Every aftermarket cam I've degreed has been within 2 degrees, that won't hurt a street motor.
Bob
tufcj
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Wow thanks, Didn't realize that about the heads-guess she will just get new push rods and leave the rockers.
I will let her know.
Thank you Bob,
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Bob, are these any good and can she use her old bridges w/these rockers 0.08" - Then we need to order push rods but first we are buying a push rod checker to make sure we have the right one.
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/prod...r1ve2agqgvhvf3
She is going to run this cam set up - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k10-214-5
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Those are good. Looks like you picked a good cam. You can use the factory bridges as long as there's not a lot of wear.
Bob
tufcj