The shop at the new work has A/C, this will be the first summer working there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudrat
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The shop at the new work has A/C, this will be the first summer working there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudrat
Well I finally saved the scratch for a new Miller 211 welder and a (cheapie) plasma cutter.. Ramsond 50 amp.
Now that Im done with most of the projects except the javelin. I am however thinking about a tubing bender/notcher and maybe building a tube chassis for a track T using the C4 corvette running gear.
It's amazing how many buddies I had that i didnt know about until i got these two pieces of equipment.
RIPPLES BELIEVE IT OR NOT
This post is about how to use an old tool in a new way.
Have you ever had trouble cutting sheet metal without bending it up while using snips? I think we all have. Here's how I cut my sheet metal. I use my table saw or hand skill saw. When I first was instructed in this I was told to reverse the saw blade, which I initially did. Then I decided to try it with the normal blade installation and I couldn't find it made much difference. The only thing I would say is that you might need to feed the material to the saw blade a little slower.
If you are going to try this I fully recommend using all safety precautions--eye protection and arm and face protection as it tends to spit hot bits of steal. Also a slow feed is needed or you will overtake the blades capability and jamb it. When done properly it works beautifully. You get nice straight cuts and your sheet metal does not get wrinkled up.
I have even cut .120 square tubing and angle. I use a carbide steal blade and believe it or not it really does not affect it. A plywood blade works best for sheet metal. However, I have used ripping blades with success.
http://http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/a...000_0001-1.jpg
The roof... since it fell in just before new years...
Swapped in a 2.64 1st gear t10 just in time to put the car in storage before winter.
You need a blade like this:
Attachment 58
It is safer, made for metal, and will last a very long time.
I'll never use an abrasive blade in a chop saw again.
make sure to check the RPM reading for those blades before you put them in any saw. A lot of metal cutting blades are purpose built to use in a metal cutting saw. For sure I know the chop saw blades are 1800rpm and not the 5400 that an abrasive saw is. Too fast and the teeth can come off like a bullet or the whole blade can come apart.
I actually have a DeWalt Saw with this blade:
Attachment 60
SPECIFICATIONS
BLADE:
- Diameter: 14"
- Arbor: 1"
- Teeth: 70
- Grind: M-ATB
- Hook: 0º
- Plate: 0.071" (1.8 mm)
- Kerf: 0.087" (2.2 mm)
MAX RPM:
APPLICATION:
- 1800 RPM
- Heavy Gauge Metal
I bought the saw at a local tool supply shop. They are available through online vendors as well. The one previously mentioned is the first thing that popped up on a google search.
I have this saw:
Attachment 61
SPECIFICATIONS
MOTOR:
- 15.0 AC/DC Amps
- 4.0 HP
NO LOAD SPEED:
WHEEL:
- 1300 RPM
MAX CAPACITY:
- Arbor: 1"
- Diameter: 14" (355 mm)
TOOL SIZE:
- Round: 5-3/16"
- Rectangular: 6-1/2" x 4-1/2"
- Length: 21"
- Weight: 47.0 lbs
Found here: http://www.mikestools.com/DW872-DeWa...utter-Saw.aspx
ironman_gq:
Good call, CRS prevented me from thinking about the RPM difference. It would be wise to check RPM of both the tool and blade in any application!