rust bombs

aww man i came across this great scrambler and the frame was just rotted out, bumms me out completely, well maybe not..HE HE HEEEEEEEEE now i have another project

You can get brand new frames.

Jesse

aww man thats like swearing, buy a new frame, maybe im too cheap, I dont mind repairing a frame, I bet i could make myself a new frame and pay myself 50per hour and still get it for half price............HEHE its fun being a mcguyver.............LOL



MC

I hate it when a jeep rusts out. My last one is falling apart under me.

I just bought an '86 cj7 w/ 61k miles. The body is just starting to show signs of rust. No undercoating, just what seems like regular paint underneath. I want to stop the rust as much as possible. From what I have read, I am thinking about some type of rust conversion treatment ( phosphoric acid type stuff) and then Rustoleum. I am in NY with the snow and the salt.

I am hearing good and bad about Por-15. The good being that it is tough stuff, but the bad is that it tends to peel off over time.

I was wondering what type of rust treatment you recommend, especially since you appear to have your share of snow and salt.

Thanks

yeah rust is a problem , did you know that amc actually stopped using the good metal and engineered rust pockets?????? i would do nothing less than a rhino type coating, all others are just temporary and i have been through them .........:(

Thanks,

I haven't heard too much about rhino-type coatings. Can they be installed by one's self or do they need to be commerically installed? Also does the body need to come off the frame?

It sounds like this project might be a little larger than I had planned.

Enjoy

I like POR-15 alot but if you want the other kind of textured coating, LINE-X is by far the best, way stronger then rhinoliner. Plus you can get it in many colors.

My friend used Por-15 last year and so far it looks pretty good. I have noticed some people worry about it peeling.

I took a look at line-x and rhino coatings on the internet. It seems those coating are good if the body comes off the frame, and then commerically sprayed. I really don't have the tools, or funds, for that. I think I will try the por15 or something similar.

Thanks

the toughest thing about rustproofing is getting the oil off the bottom of the body, and it needs to ALL come off completely. I wouldnt hesitate to remove your tub, its only a hand full of bolts a steering culumn and some wires away from coming off, that way your rustproofing can be done with great care, also make sure you take off your brake distribution box and rustproof behind it, thats the spot where jeeps crack and also behind the rear springs, take care of it my man and it will take care of you.....LOL GOOD LUCK ok let me know how it goes

LONG -post. I'm in the process of doing a ground up refurb on an 85 CJ. I blasted the frame to bright metal and then POR'd the inside and out. POR is hard for the average shade-tree guy to spray. Getting consistency right is tough. I did my axles too, but I haven’t had it on the road to see how well it holds up yet. The body on this thing was pretty bad so I cut and replaced all the rusted 18ga stuff with 16ga galvanized. And I found a lot more rust than what I first thought the deeper I got into it. But when I finished sand blasting the body (both sides were easy since it was off the frame and stripped out) I used the Eastwood rust prevention paint and undercoat (http://www.eastwoodco.com), and put Huculiner on the floor and the Dupli-color stuff on the sides and tail gate since it’s smooth. The Huculiner is way too rough for a barefoot so I may take it down some and recoat with the Dupli-color. It’s about 8 bucks a can here, and if you have a good base it should hold up. I’m using my tailgate as a workbench in my small shop and it’s holding up well to “abuse” above and beyond me clamping and cutting on it. Eastwood also has some stuff that you can tint to match your exterior – or USE an exterior coating.

Well I finally got my cj7 and I'm just waiting for the snow to melt so that I can start working out in the driveway.

Mudrat, you say you used POR on the frame and Eastwood on the body. I was wondering why and which you like better.

I picked up the POR to prime and topcoat the frame and axles because what I had read about being more chip proof than the others. But mixing and spraying it and having to use their solvent was a REAL PAIN. The Eastwood stuff coats well - especially their rust preventive primer, and uses regular lacquer solvent. Cleaning up the spray gun was easier with the Eastwood primer.
Now I'm reading articles that say the POR stuff peels after a couple years?!? I really don't want to do another frame resto because of that..

But, the POR paint stripper is awesome stuff, but again it's more expensive, but then I haven't tried the Eastwood stripper.
http://www.eastwoodcompany.com
http://www.por15.com/

Pat