Got my steel saturday, they sell drops and end pieces from there big warehouse so stuffs cheaper since it doesnt have papers. Didnt have any 1/8 wall longer then 3ft. So i got 3/16. I coulda got new sticks but it was still cheaper to get the 3/16 so I figured heavyier duty and less chance for warpage when welding.
I started sunday but it was so dam hot I stopped after cutting the 2 62" pieces, got bored got some 90* framing clamps and got to tacking the 2 side peices together to see physically how much space I was going to take up. I need to cut my 2 other 44" and grind or trim down my other 2 56", I hate abrasive cutoff saws I had 2 exactly 56 and the other 2 were a little over 56 1/32.
I really liked using these clamps, But I still double checked with a square before I tacked it.
In case anyone wonders, the oven is for powder coating, its my Uncles.
07-18-2011, 07:15 PM
wickedinhere
NIce, i started to go with the 2 inch tubing for my whole table but used the plans for 3x3 tubing instead. I hope to have my table done this week, are you gonna put castor wheels on yours?
07-19-2011, 01:39 PM
Mav68erick
casters maybe maybe not, gonna make leveling feet but its going in a corner so dont see moving it much can always add later. heres 2 more pics I tried to load this morning but the pc locked up.
The reason i am gonna do casters on mine is so i can roll it outside to paint it.LOL
07-21-2011, 08:21 PM
wickedinhere
Did you ever decide which plasma cutter you were gonna go with?
07-22-2011, 06:52 AM
Mav68erick
I got my powermax 65. Last week used it by hand looked pretty good on 1/4"
07-24-2011, 10:41 AM
Mav68erick
Ok heres what I was talking about in wickeds post Matt.
1. Its lever on both sides and on the same plane
2. the water table supports measure 6" in all 4 spots, so both planes are parallel
3. Is a drawing of what I mean, the 2x2 bars have slight twist in them. at one end they will be perpindicualr to the water table
or be .4 - .5* off measured with my digipass digital level. This off course will make the support rail either higher or lower, Over the 2" length of the bar its only .011 difference in height So I guess if the bar is level with the other side bar it shouldnt be to bad of an issue, maybe Ill tap and bolt the support rails to the gear rack prior to welding, or grind 90% of my tack welds down to help synch it up with the hardened rail.
I was just concerned that if one was .4 off one way, the other side off the other if you drew a straight line from them to the center of the table here would be 1* total which in reality 1* off over a 31" span because thats the apex point of the 62" width shouldnt be to bad now that I think about it. Its just that Ive machined dies and stuff manually and know if things are perfect it really bites you in the ass in the end, and was just a concern. OCD for the lose = )
You can have one rail lower or higher but not unequal along the rail (as best you can fab it to be). We allow up to .200 max in our built tables here.
07-28-2011, 02:01 PM
Mav68erick
whens our stuff getting shipped = )
07-28-2011, 04:49 PM
wickedinhere
Hows your table looking? Have you started on the water tray?
08-01-2011, 01:49 PM
Mav68erick
Heres what is thus far, everythings still only tacked together. The feet on it are just temporary that I tacked on that had the nuts welded on to adjust it so I could level it out when I put it together, because I made the 2 main rail sides as 1 piece with my 4 90* framing clamps. I got some plates I may use to use casters but I wanna see If I can fit a leveling foot on the same plate, I see no need for me to move it but It would be nice I just dont wanna spend the money for good casters, I spent 100 bucks on 4 for my car jig because I bought some cheep HF ones before and they didnt hold up, and the ones I got at Tractor supply were steel and had grease fittings, So I knew theyd last.
Looks good! Gantry kit should be in your hand by the end of the week here.:blob2:
08-05-2011, 07:47 AM
Mav68erick
I hope I get a call for my stuff today or its gonna be a long weekend. :)
08-05-2011, 08:59 AM
wickedinhere
I hope we both get a call today. LOL
08-05-2011, 01:36 PM
Mav68erick
no call = ( I guess there's still 1 day in the week, doubt Ill get a call tomorrow. Was even asked If I wanted to work 6 hrs on saturday, but after working 8 hrs every day I didnt wanna waste my weekend especially if I was gonna get to work on my stuff, I basically declined an easy 180 bucks = /
08-05-2011, 07:43 PM
jeepsr4ever
I will check tracking for you on sunday. Nobody delivers freight on a saturday.
08-06-2011, 04:12 AM
Mav68erick
Poop, guess Im gonna just frame my water table in if the steel place has the right angle iron, maybe go to Harbor freight and buy one of there 20 ton presses that are on sale and get the Swag Press Brake kit, might as well get ready to bend some stuff.
But heres a question, How long does the water table need to be Obviously I can make it 56" to fit between the rails, was it 56 x 54? I was just gonna make it 56 x 56, Or make it the full length to lay bigger sheet down, except the slats wont be flush with the top of the angle iron so water levels would be lower.
08-06-2011, 07:01 AM
wickedinhere
I have the 20 ton press with the swag brake kit it works great, make sure to get his arbor plates the ones that come with the press are junk. I made my pan 54x54 that way with the 4x4 sheet metal and the 3 inch angle iron it came out perfect.
08-06-2011, 12:36 PM
Mav68erick
yeah I was thinking I messed up If I made it exactly as wide as my rails because.... I had my sheet steel cut to 4' Wide >.< 56 - 6 = 50!!!!! Doh.
I bought the 20 ton press today, then they had a 20ton air/hyrd. on sale so I got that to put in it. Good thing I did I tested it with the lever, lol maybe If I was gonna bend 1 thing it would be alright but, 5 pumps doesnt move it very far Id be wore out.
Ill prolly just get some 1" or bigger plate to lay across the whole thing when I use it for a press brake I dunno if they changed there arbor plates but the 2 I got look fairly decent I just gotta like you said in our post, let the wallet cool off = ) Figured I can make brakets now Might as well be ready to bendz them.
Oh yeah the table that sits on the pins of the press, wow, could they have welded it on anything less flat thing wobbles so bad, Im gonna cut the angle iron off they have on the C Channel and re do it, I cant complain to much 150 bucks isnt worth the time buying cutting steel and building 1. So spending some time and reinforcing and fixing something ready to go is just fun in my eyes
08-06-2011, 12:58 PM
wickedinhere
Yeah the arbor plates that come with the press are cast and have been known to shatter under stress and make you bleed. One inch plate will be plenty. YEah your wallet will warm up at times.LOL I have been trying to beat the heat down here in louisiana but its almost impossible to work in my shop in the afternoon.
08-06-2011, 01:27 PM
Mav68erick
yeah its humid in my area in Michigan, I cant imagine what its like down south. Im sick of being at work and my ass feeling like a slip and slide.
Wish I had this before, I made a little sheet metal brake to bend a piece of 16g to fix my a pillar that I Cut out on my camaro, it worked was less then 30 bucks, didnt work as well as I wanted, it mostly needs gusseted to strengthen the angle iron. Couple crescent wrenches for handles and wammo.
the clecos were just to line it up, it bolted together and shimmed for mat. thickness
Im bored its hot and raining so thought id share some stuff I did when I was laid off last year.
Heres a buildup of the jig I built to redo my basket case camaro. I dont even wanna remember how long I measured remeasured and remeasured all the pin locations for the factory locations and then re checked before I started to weld panels together. I was going crazy worrying how stuff was gonna line up in the end.
Im pretty much stuck on the build, the 1/4 panels fit like ass around the tail panel, I fudged my way this far, but its out of my comfort zone to cut tweak body panels on the outside, I may have someone do the 1/4s and roof so far most every thing has been plug welding and thats ez. Im no body guy and I dont wanna spend a lot of time screwing up this taiwanese panels. I may look into buying a better set they just get expensive between the panels and the shipping = /. Either way Ive saved my self alot of money taking it this far myself. Not bad for a 26yr old know it all = )
08-06-2011, 07:48 PM
wickedinhere
Man you got some work in that car, nice jig. I have a 68 ford f-100 i am working on and everytime i touch it i find more rust.
08-07-2011, 02:59 PM
Mav68erick
I made my leveling legs / Feet. And drilled mounted my casters and welding them to the 4 legs original to the table. You can really tell how uneven the floor is with casters on, it was real noticeable with my car since the casters were 4ft and 7 ft apart. Now I gotta get a dam 3/4 tap to run through the 3/4 nuts I welded on the inside of a plate that got welded to some 2x2 that comes off the bottom of the 44" long bars. when I welded them I left the bolt in them cooled em off and threaded them in and out, I think I cross threaded the first thread because now 2 of them dont go in smoothly, or its just because the hole before the nut doesnt have alot of clearance. it was the last one I went to put in that was bad, so I checked it in another one and think I messes that one up with the bolt I screwed up in the last nut. Dee da dee.
08-07-2011, 06:08 PM
Mav68erick
well tractor supply had 3/4 taps but closed at 6... and no one opened had anything bigger then 1/2. Oh well Ill get one tomorrow and go to the machining store and get a couple good 1/4 20 machine taps, gotta go to that end of town to get some o rings for my filters one of them is leaking air after I checked it a few weeks ago and the rings bad.
I may cut out the 2 44" rails that support the water table and move them farther out, so I can add 2 more back vertical supports under them like the middle. then mirror that to the front minus the middle. then you could add angel and make shelving to lay 4' wide sheets. atm its exactly 48" think I need to move them 1/2 farther out just for wiggle room.
Already had these round cutouts, laser slugs from old job, didnt wanna bother cutting any 2" wide stock. Even drilled a hole in one and plug welded the head of a 3/4 bolt to it, but didnt bother doing the other 3 it was getting hot.
Looks good the only thing i would do is add some rubber or non skid material to the bottom of your leveling legs. I did that to mine because when level one of my castors are off the concrete and i was scared that when the gantry moves the table would move around.
08-08-2011, 11:21 AM
wickedinhere
Got my call today how about you?
08-08-2011, 12:13 PM
Mav68erick
Not unless they called at home cant remember if I left home number when I ordered. Bummed. People get my angle for the water tray to start on
08-08-2011, 01:30 PM
Mav68erick
deleted deleted deleted
08-08-2011, 01:38 PM
jeepsr4ever
Yours says out for delivery. You wanted this shipped to a terminal correct? They will be calling you before days end. There are also UPS boxes coming your way with hardware, slats and cable carrier.
08-08-2011, 02:57 PM
Mav68erick
Just got the call, hope I wasnt to offensive I get mad easily and had a crappy day. Im just to impatient, getting a call so late wasnt something I expected. OMW to pick it up now
08-08-2011, 04:23 PM
Mav68erick
did the z axis torch carrier change? it looks like the one in the picture, but is different from creepys build. It has a switch already mounted in it, and an anodized black part with 45* out of the corners that rides on the z threaded rod. is that the Torch height switch after it touches off? or is there more parts for the z Axis in the ups shipment.
And did anyone notice the gear rack is double sided taped to the aluminum? seems kinda scary specially here since its so humid id be worried it will move or start to side to side when the motor turns on it, or does no one have issues with this? I seen creepys style was welded on I wiggled the edge alittle, maybe it will help since it gives a little no real lash issues but I dunno
08-08-2011, 04:47 PM
jeepsr4ever
That is the finer action Z axis. The two bottom poles on the limit switch are the ones you solder to and wire for torch height touch off. The tape will actually help with backlash and cushion the gear. We have been using it for more than a year now with zero failures even when using a 1/2" wide rack and routing heavily. Fear not :D We even had a machine get flipped over by the trucking company...bent the motor shaft and destroyed the gear but didnt budge the gear rack.
08-08-2011, 07:10 PM
Mav68erick
I like the look and the switch on my z axis pretty nice set up.I think creepy said it in his post the roller bearings that guide in the v rail already being half assembled is bad, some of the hardware fell off, and since mine gantry wasnt boxed fully just framed with 2 x 4s there gone, its no big deal shit happens. I opened up one box and seen the xbox controler pretty sweet you tossed that in. I was looking at amazon at the wireless set up but pretty cool you send a pendent with it. I was even looking at the original Nintendo NES usb controllers online and though that would be funny to use = )
So glad I watched the torchmate video on the 2 x 2 and seen they had a link to pirate and then was browsing through the tool shop forum = P plus I think someone name dropped bulltear on there to. ( This is subject to change If It works like poo, but Im sure it wont, im just excited atm. )
It does look like Ill have some time invested in square up the X rails to later on, but no sense in thinking about that til I finish welding table, the biggest decsion atm is what color to paint it!
I made my water tray as wide and the distance between my rails so its 55" distance on the inside, and there 56" long, I figured id leave it longer in case I had a big sheet it would help support it, hold more water. I guess if it looks bigger it has to run better somehow in the theory I was thinking at the time I decided to leave it long, but I could be wrong I was sweating really bad at the time.
So now I gotta go back to the steel store and have them take 5' sheet and hopin the cut it square, my inside dimensions 50" x 52" or if they make it 52" x 54" ill just lay it on top of the angle or the angle on top of that and lap seam weld it. and If I do the bottom I can do x % of it and just seam seal the bajesus outta it.
And never having a plasma when I was thinking about notching the angle, I though this is gonna suck if I use the 3" cut off wheels being 3/16 so I notched it with the chop saw first, then fired up the plasma and cut it in the gullet to cut the rest out and then ground what was left flat prolly coulda did better if I flipped it over and straight edged I could cut most the radius out to but it was still faster then the first idea.
08-09-2011, 07:24 PM
Mav68erick
bum bum bum bum.... So did some welding, no matter what you do welding vertical is a pita. Welded my water table frame top and bottom and ground it flush and blended the corners in. Being paraniod as Iam and worrying about things shifting during welded I leveled my table out, both rails 0.0 and the table supports 0.0 Then I laid a bar across both rails 0.0 both ends and the middle. Measured it corner to corner both ways 0.0 and 0.0. So then I decided to brace it as seen in the pictures. dont let the clamps fool you I tack welded it to my gear rack support rails and to the shorter pieces at the center. After I tacked it went back and checked it mostly all 0.0 and some 0.1s. So I labeled where I checked them and wrote it down. I then began to weld and skippng one side to the other not welding more then one spot and letting it cool, every 2-4 welds id go back and check all my points, dam thing never moved at all. I think it was a combination of the X brace and the fact it was 3/16 thick.
Now I dont think im gonna bother welding the bottom the water table support rails are welded on 3 sides and I added an extra I just cant see doing it, not that I cant I guess I could flip it with my brace still on there but Ive welded everything except the bottoms and my top rails to the legs do that tomorrow.
The levels only measures in tenths of a degree, should spent 10 dollars more when I bought it and got the .5 a tenth one. Id prolly drive my self crazy using that one. If it says .1 and I tap it and it bounces to 0, I usually assume its around .05* and to be honest the bubble in the level looks centerd, but .1 degree off over a 12 foot span is .2513 so a quarter of an inch, when I made my car jig it was all 0.0 except 1 half of the 11ft rail twisted down .1 and was about 3/32 lower then the other 3 corners so I made sure to compensate when I made my raiser support rails. Maybe Im just thinking to much into it = ) I just dont want a headache later trying to square and true up the rails and have binding issues, I know the guys making the torchmate tables have alot of problems even worse the bigger the table the more chance its off
08-09-2011, 07:43 PM
wickedinhere
Man you better weld the bottom of the water table supports cause if you dont the table will never really be finished. LOL