360 torque questions

New member here, new to the amc 8"s I have had a few 6"s I searched and read some but could not find exactly what I was looking for.

My 140k mile 86 grand wagoneer amc 360 is going into my cj7.

It will turn 2400 rpm at highway speeds, (69 mph) I don't plan on being at that high a speed for more than 10 minutes at a time.

I will check the compresion and report numbers but I'm sure they are acceptable, i will also start the engine on the stand and make sure I don't here any knocking or rattling around.

If all seems well, I'd like to give this engine some love on a budget, I want a long lasting healthy motor.

Torque is my number one want, I want to have excellent off idle performance as well as cruising at 2500 rpm comfortably for short distances.

Parts that I think I need, or worth the upgrade is

Elderbrock performer intake,
New carb, I think (right now it has a two barrel motor craft)
Timing chain cover,
Timing chain double roller
Distributer
Cam
Maybe a head job
New valve springs if necessary.
Should I also change the lifters if I change the cam?
I understand that factory manafolds are great for low end performance.

Tell me what parts mate well together to make this engine right.
I don't understand cam talk so, more lift less duration is all kinda over my head but I'll go google it right now just incase I NEED to understand it.

Thanks allot for the help just tell me what parts work well and are proven to be good quality.

Also I hear about distributer gear issues and I'd like make sure I don't mess up any new parts I get.

And I'm super excited to finally have a v8 jeep

The timing cover isn't cheap. And you DO NOT want to go with a cheap one because they will cause a lot of problems if you dont get an OEM or Bulltear cover.
Id recommend this recipe for torque

9.5:1 pistons, 291 heads, or Edelbrock aluminum heads. (porting, 3-5 angle job optional)
Comp 260H cam lifters (I used stock springs with no issues)
Double roller
MSD, DUI, TFI, or HEI ignition upgrade.
Edelbrock Performer intake
Factory Manifolds to a 3" single from the manifolds back
4-BBL carb of your choosing. (opinions are endless about this)
Matched dizzy gears
High flow water pump
Aluminum radiator
Bigger tranny cooler

Rockers would be pointless for you

or drop a healthy 401 in with those mods :wink:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Revelc

The timing cover isn't cheap. And you DO NOT want to go with a cheap one because they will cause a lot of problems if you dont get an OEM or Bulltear cover.
Id recommend this recipe for torque

9.5:1 pistons, 291 heads, or Edelbrock aluminum heads. (porting, 3-5 angle job optional)
Comp 260H cam lifters (I used stock springs with no issues)
Double roller
MSD, DUI, TFI, or HEI ignition upgrade.
Edelbrock Performer intake
Factory Manifolds to a 3" single from the manifolds back
4-BBL carb of your choosing. (opinions are endless about this)
Matched dizzy gears
High flow water pump
Aluminum radiator
Bigger tranny cooler

Rockers would be pointless for you

or drop a healthy 401 in with those mods :wink:

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Well I didn't plan on a rebuild, just work the heads over and reuse the rotating assembly as is (new cam and lifters)

So do you still recommend the comp 260 cam?

All other parts on your list seems like a good idea and will be done. HEI or DUI sounds good but I understand it gets in the way of the power steering pump, and I don't know how to deal with that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nixer600

Well I didn't plan on a rebuild, just work the heads over and reuse the rotating assembly as is (new cam and lifters)

So do you still recommend the comp 260 cam?

All other parts on your list seems like a good idea and will be done. HEI or DUI sounds good but I understand it gets in the way of the power steering pump, and I don't know how to deal with that.

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Well from what everyone says compression will net you torque. Thats why I recommended pistons or high comp heads. If you want to reuse your rotating assembly you can bump it up with the 291 casting heads or the Edelbrocks.

You will be limiting yourself with the stock compression ratio but you can still perform the other mods and net marginal gains in torque and HP but not enough in my opinion to make a big seat of the pants feeling or stump pulling power.

The 260H cam is a slight bump in performance and noticeable over stock but I wasnt impressed with it. Then again I am young and I have a bad itch for speed.
A 270 cam is about as big as you can go while reusing the stock TC and gives it a little lump at idle.

If your reworking your heads get a high lift cam at or around .500 and have the springs matched to your new cam.

Here are some options to add to the confusion.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2391&gid=297
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2392&gid=297
http://www.crower.com/camshafts/amc-...cam-258-h.html
http://www.crower.com/camshafts/amc-...m-270-hdp.html
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=14&sb=2
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=21&sb=2


As far as Dizzy's go, my MSD clears my pump just fine. :wink:

I built my 304 for torque, did a 3 angle valve job, an Engle racing cam (they have a couple AMC specific grinds that have VERY good low end torque) a lot of cams for AMC's tend to be small block chevy grinds on a different blank. Edelbrock performer intake and 600cfm carb (smaller carb will help with throttle response and low end power, 600 is plenty for a 360) Stock heads flow pretty well the way they are and actually have pretty good ports, so if you do anything other than a valve job, maybe gasket match them and look for some undercut valves. Stock manifolds or shorty headers and a single exhaust work best for low end torque, long tube headers work well but routing the exhaust can be a pain and you don't gain anything. A single exhaust is actually better here.
Definately upgrade the ignition, the HEI setup works very well and making it fit with the power steering pump is as simple as getting a slightly longer belt so you can swing the pump to the side a little more.

http://www.englecams.com/downloads/2...le_catalog.pdf
I used a cam similar to their 5014H, It had lift numbers closer to the 5052H but without the longer duration. 112* LSA also helps give these motors a fairly large and flat torque curve. I started with a performer grind when I did my rebuild with a 110* LSA and never did really like how it ran for me. Going to the 112* with a little more lift made a night and day difference in my engine. (kinda backwards from normal thinking) I ended up with a much better idle which helped with trail riding and tip-in throttle response a lot.