Midplate Bolt Torque Spec

I've ordered a midplate for the 1988 AMC 360 I plan to install in my 1982 J10 pickup.

A good and close friend of mine installed a midplate in the recent past and followed the torque specs according to TSM.
He broke all of the bolts off in the timing chain chain cover.
Luckily, when the midplate was removed, its thickness left enough meat on the bolts that he was able to remove the bolts.

When I go to install my midplate, what should I torque the bolts to?
What other tips, tricks or other recommendation could you provide that would make this an easy install?
For Example, do I install the gasket dry or use a tiny bit of RTV
or other sticky stuff to tack the gasket in place as I put all the piece back together?
...do I need to place the oil pump gear with grease or petroleum jelly?

4-6lbs of force and always install dry

I installed my Midplate this weekend.
After removing the oil filter adapter, I cleaned the oil pump mating service and then blew the cavity clean with compressed air.
I installed one gasket to the oil pump, dry, then the midplate and the other gasket dry and then oil filter adapter.
I did not pack the oil pump with grease or petroleum jelly.

As my hardware was nasty and I am painting my engine, I replaced all the hardware with new grade 8 1/2-20 x 1" bolts.
I know grade 8 is overkill, but they were outta grade 5 and I did not wanna drive all over town looking for them.
I discovered my fancy torque wrench only goes down to 20 foot pounds, so I tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern until they were all uniformly tight.
I dunno what 4-6 ft/lbs feels like, but I'll bet I have more than that on those bolts.
I know the timing chain cover is aluminum and can be stripped out very easily, so I was careful.

Before I start my engine, I will use Tad's Oil Pump Priming tool to circulate the oil.
This engine has been sitting for a while, and I will operate the priming tool, tool the engine over slightly, prime it some more, turn the engine, prime it...to get all the oil the all the surfaces.

I was thinking of using some break-in oil and then before I fire up the engine, drain the oil and change it.
...or maybe I will let it run for 30 minutes or so, then change the oil and filter.
Have not decided that yet.

Brian,
Unless you've replaced parts inside, you really shouldn't need to do the break-in procedure again, unless you want to. If it's been sitt'n a while then an oil change may be a good thing.
And when you use the priming tool, that pretty much forces the oil through the whole engine - just be sure to hang on to the drill motor and make sure its a strong one!! I have a 1/2 mongo drill and if I'm not careful it'll twist right out of my hands :shock:

I need to find mine again too, haven't seen it in a while :-|

'Rat