CJ7 Rebuild...engine,axles,tires/rims,lockers,etc.

Okay folks here is another rebuild for '80 CJ7...what I will be doing: Replace 6-cyl with AMC 360 (from '85 Wagoneer), will keep T-18 trans, D300 transfer, AMC 20 rear axle has one-piece shafts but will get either Ox-locker or ARB Locker, Dana 30 in front will get same locker with 4340 shafts and u-bolt kit for Yoke, tub will be '95 Wrangler, brake upgrade to hydro-boost, I will go to 35" MT tires. The rear frame rails are rusted through and will need support plates welded on and a replacement rear crossmember. I intend to use a one-inch body lift and already have a 4 inch Rough Country "spring under" lift.

With this said, I have to explain why I am not going to Dana 44s or 60s, I'm in Pa. and most of my off-roading has only a minimal amount of climbing, but does involve muddy trails. I believe that since I've already invested in the one-piece shafts and I can control power and speed from the V8 I will be successful with the axle upgrades and 35" tires. Assembled new axles would be great but are costly for me so I am thinking of delivering the existing axles to a shop that will install 4.56 gears and a on-off locker. Comments Please. :-|

Welcome to Bulltear! :? :?

Sounds like a plan. The Dana 30 will still be marginal with 35" tires. Although you're upgrading the axles, you still have 2 weak points, that being the ring/pinion itself (7.20" ring gear), and the external lockout hubs.

Check to see if your lockouts have 5 or 6 bolts holding them on. I believe 1980 was a transition year. If it has 5, consider upgrading to the 76-79 6 bolt units.

I had a Dana 30 with power-lock under my CJ with 360/T-18/Dana 300 and 35" tires for years. I got really good at swapping axles on the trail (under 30 minutes). I also broke hubs, a carrier (stock open), and 2 ring/pinions. Be particularly careful when applying power with the wheels turned, that tends to make them spit out u-joints.

I built a Dana 44HD front a few years ago, using a mix of GM/Ford/Jeep parts to keep the 5 on 5.5" lug pattern and 1/2 ton internal hubs. Haven't broken any parts yet, even with a Detroit Locker in there, so it's been worth it.

The build sounds good. Try it and see how it holds up. You can always upgrade in the future if it breaks. It's a never ending cycle.

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket


Bob
tufcj

I think the best approach here would be to use a set of Waggy 44s and ditch the rest underneath. A 360 will deliver a TON more torque, and the 30 shafts are like twigs. Waggy stuff isn't brining any money at all, so you could pick up a set already geared for practically nothing.
That said, you are wheeling the wrong spots if you don't see any rocks. You can't be more than 2 hours from Rausch Creek. :lo1l:

How about those Waggy 44s? Not exactly a clean swap are they? And yes Rausch Creek is about 90 minutes away. Never been there though. The AMC with the one-piece axles and the Dana 30 may be topped out with the 35s, but i think alot of this comes down to driving style. I always thought the guys who were in control and exhibited less "hammering" or "wheel hop" had the right idea...with that said, there will always be those instances when the combo of speed, torque and tire grabbing is a must!!! That is when i will be at risk.

Easy driving only gets you so far though. Most breaks aren't due to heavy throttle, but binding of components. This will be a nice upgrade over the 30.

http://www.hardrockcrawlers.org/foru...ed=1#post21727


If you were going harder trails, I'd say to go straight to 1-tons.

Depends alot on the tires as well.

My cousin runs a 79 CJ7 w/ 304 and 35" Buckshots. They are a little more narrow than most 35s. He's running D30 up front w/ Detroit and iirc 3.73 gears, factory shafts, Spicer joints and Warn lockouts and AMC 20 in the rear w/ Detroit and one-piece shafts.

His driving style is if full throttle does not make it, give it more!

He grenaded an Auburn up front launching a snow pile. He kept snapping lockouts untill he upgraded to Warn. The only time he blows u-joints is when he bends his steering linkage which causes the axle to oversteer.

These axles should hold 35s (not too wide) under a 360 no problem if the driver uses common sence.

Now a 360 above stock would be a different situation. These axles would not handle much increase in torque over a factory 360. Same holds true with massive gear reduction as this would increase torque loads the axle sees.

I would reccomend a stock 360 & stock gearing (allowing an axle re-gear for tires) with these axles all day long as long as the tires are not too agressive. Otherwise upgrade the front axle or reduce tire size.