Performance American Style (page 25) drain-back lines....

I got this book from AMC published in 1972... In the section Mode 3 (7,500 RPM Capability) they have this picture of an Oil drain-back lines for road racing..

I'll try and put a scan later but the basic idea is to install oil lines from the two oustide corners of the valve cover, close to the base and route them down to the oil pan... I figure it could have potential for fourwheeling when you're at angles most of the time and allow oil hanging around to drain...

Anybody did this before? Any thoughts? :-|

Here's the scan:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4286069943&idx=1

That book has alot of mods that arent ever neccesary, my favorite one is the line behind the block =D>


Hal fof the problem with these motors as far as oiling is concerned is that the oil doesnt get back down fast enough. Alot of high RPM racers and us included make the cam holes smaller - pushrod holes - and drill out the drain holes. The lines were a neato idea :wink:

Yea, I love to read... I got this other book in the mail right now from this site.

http://www.hobbyobsession.com/bjsbook.html

http://www.hobbyobsession.com/Web_Unsaved_Project.jpg

http://www.hobbyobsession.com/DCP_5643a.jpg


I'm hoping to see some cool ideas in there too..

My friends are all telling me, "Why don't you just get a SBC for your Jeep?".. They just don't understand... I tell them owning an AMC is just more "cool" factor than dime a dozen SBCs.. But I'll show them what an AMC can do with those 35x14.5 boggers... :lo1l:

Bj's book looks very interesting. Bought it this morning

Hmmm, very interesting! When I get my deposit back fromn my old place this week, I am gonna send MC some moo-la and maybe pick this little sucker up as well. Looks interesting! :-|
Jack

Well, the book came in yesterday. It's very nice, pictures are all in color and of lazer quality. He explained alot of things that a newbie mechanic hobbyist like myself can grasp some concepts.. Stuff that all you pros out there understand, like porting, and points out the differences between available parts... My next engine will be alot better, since I kinda lost control over this rebuild, for warranty purposes.. I'll need to find a 401 block and soop it up over the years, get a 14 bolt and dana 60 to take the abuse...

This book in combination with Performance American Style are great references.. It's nice to have everything in one spot instead of printing everything out of the internet and later try to sort it out..

yeah some great stuff in there...all of it has been known since the early 70's but its a decent book to have around to bruch up on.

a couple of things I wouldnt consider

1. Idler gear lube hole (this can cause a cavitation of oil pressure in the pump itself releasing small hp pockets on deceleration and opening the oil filter bypass)
2.Packing the pump with petrolium jelly (this is a old way of priing the AMC oilpump but our research found that before your engine heats up the high viscosity (or thicker substance) bleeds under and over the gears and acutally causes particles to swirl around under and over the gears when the oil in cavitating around being fed through the pump)

It takes alot of time and fixtures to realize these small but significant problems.. I really enjoyed BJ's book and except for a few items I would reccommend it to anyone who builds AMC's or wants to learn. I appreciate BJ and his work


Hats off to BJ :t:

when you use the priming tool, do you still pack the pump with something? What role does the jelly really do? lube the gears or create somekind of succion to draw the oil in the pump?

We use a light oil that has a neutral PH (starret EDP53216). The petrolium jelly just lets you have suction

1. petrolium jelly allows suction right away (which isnt required with priming)
a. to start and engine without priming it is very dangerous
b. priming the pump doesnt require petrolium jelly to start suction
c. using a light oil lubricates the pump before the oil gets to it
d. thier are no wonders to using petrolium jelly or grease they are bad news for your pump and the soaping agents act like friction modifiers and can stay in your oil untill you change it.

The bad news is that all oil pump mfg's still list using petrolium jelly as a pump packing material.

prelubing the pump with motor oil, then using the priming tool.. then start the engine? Does that sound good??? Cause I looked for that neutral PH oil and I can't find it on the net.. Could I use my girlfriends neutral PH hair conditionner.. 8) :roll: