Fuel/Temp Gauge Not Working

http://home.roadrunner.com/~john.str...au.htm#Warning

http://home.roadrunner.com/~john.str...eQuickTest.htm

I have power to the RED lead "I" terminal. NO power to "S" or "A".

Quote:

---

If it doesn't light at all then you probably have a problem with the points on the current regulator or a broken connection.

---

Question, what are the Points & current regulator, where are they and what do they look like?

Where can I buy a set?

Thanks,
Jim


One more question.

What if I installed a after market fuel gauge and new tank sender set up. Would it be hard to hook up? Would I use the power from the fuel gauge now (red) and then I would have to run a wire from the sender or use existing. I'm thinking existing.

The points/current regulator are inside the fuel gauge. It regulates the internal voltage to the fuel and temp gauge to something like +5 volts by turning on/off very quickly. There's no way to replace them, just the gauge. The new gauges are around $30-35 each and are made in China, available online anywhere that sells jeep parts. Originals were made by Stewart-Warner. I bought a clean used cluster off eBay for about the same money, and the gauges worked, so I swapped them into my original cluster.

You can go aftermarket, you just have to make sure the OHM values, both full and empty match on the gauge and sender. They make about 3 different "flavors". If the wire between the tank and dash is OK, you could re-use it.

One question for you. Is the sending unit grounded? For the gauge to see the right values, you need a good ground at the sender. There's usually a ground wire from the sending unit to the frame.

Bob
tufcj

Thanks Bob, I'm going out in a few and check the sender, if not I will have to replace it. I do have a ground to the frame from the sender and I will test from the - side of the battery w/a long jumper lead.

I'll have to find some black faced gauges w/a white needle/white numbers to match my oil pressure gauge (mechanical). Next Thursday I am going to Summit and check on gauges, hopefully they will carry the right OHM gauge.

I'll repost on the sender.

I did check the instrument fuse (15amp) and it is good.

OK. I did the sender test by grounding the sender=no worky.

I checked voltage @ the plug in on the harness=no voltage.

I checked the RED/wire side of the fuel gauge on the speedo = test light lights.

I checked the other side = no test light.

I am assuming the pink wire on the harness @ the gas tank/drivers side rear goes directly to the fuel gauge side so when the red wire feeds it through the gauge it becomes hot. Thus if the gauge is bad the sender won't work BUT, shouldn't I have the gauge read full when I did the sender test, BUT NO, if the gauge is not working.


Therefore, I guess I should buy a gauge and test, if not, then replace the sender, then I should be good to go, I think.

Question(s):

1. Where should I buy a sender that will last?

2. I'm going to Summit next Thursday so I would need, like Bob mentioned, a gauge that would be regulated to the proper OHMs.

3. I love Jeeps

4. I love Jeeps

Double tested everything today and still the same results.

I guess I'll buy a fuel gauge and a sender. Now to figure out where, I really don't want to buy a china made sender.

Question: when I wire up the sender (Pink Wire) do I hook that to one side of the gauge and the RED Wire to the other side?

I'm going to OHM out the pink and see if it is a straight shot to the gauge from the rear.

I guess I could get a old school speedo as well, can't remember if the speed cut out is 5" or 5.5".

Thanks,
Jim

OK, since I can't get the sender to test I am going to buy a new one.

Not sure which one to get and I'll have to specify the OHMs for sure w/AZone.

What would be your recomendation(s).

Thanks,
Jim

I looked in the 4wd catalog and they have one for a 20gal tank (of which I have).

Part number: Crown CR05362090
http://www.4wd.com/aux_incl/images.a...RO&w=200&h=200


AZone: Spectra
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...FG71A/image/2/

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par..._127542_11219_

Factory gauges work from these settings (or very close):

Resistance Reading
73 ohms Empty
23 ohms 1/2 tank
10 ohms Full

If you're changing the gauge with something aftermarket, you need a sender compatible with the gauge.

Bob
tufcj

Oh so I can just get a sender to fit the tank and a gauge to fit the sender, cool. More options. It would be nice to have a sender for a 20 gal tank but not to sure about the one in 4wdh catalog/MFG. So many decisions and trying to finish the build.

I checked the fuel gauge in the cluster and I could not get a test light on the one side, have power though.

Also, since I can't get a test light on the sender I need to replace it as well.

Question: If I replace the sender and the fuel gauge doesn't work, will it burn up the sender?