Rear main Main oil bypass mods (post member pics here!)

I was asked recently by a board member about this subject. This is a mod to supply additional oil volume to the rear main bearings and is usually only recommended for engines that will operate in the higher rpm range. I think MC can do a better job of describing the details of the mod than I can since it has been quite a while since I did this myself and he knows much more about AMC blocks than I do.
I wanted to use the the stock metal valley pan gasket with my engine so I used brass fittings and a 3/8" steel line to make a low profile version that cleared the stock valley pan intake gasket. If I recall correctly I believe the 2 holes are drilled and tapped to 1/4"npt. The photos below show the details of my setup for anyone interested:


http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/f...il_Bypass1.jpg

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/f...01_Spacer3.jpg

http://www.fullsizejeeps.com/jeeps/f...01_Spacer4.jpg

editied by jeepsr4ever :mrgreen:

On the second picture, there seems to be a line with a fittin on the other side of the block.. what is that?

Looks to me like it's something on the floor, not the engine. Like an intake manifold. Might just be me though.

Fill tube and water neck on an intake laying on the floor.

I just pulled a block out of a 81 Wagoneer and the PO had done this mod to the engine. What would be the problem with it being in a DD as well as a off-road machine?

You can run a daily driver with this mod

Here are some more pics.


http://www.4wheeler.ca/uploads//1100...1105459246.jpg






http://www.4wheeler.ca/uploads//1100...1105459581.jpg

and more pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7/IMG_0505.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7/IMG_0515.jpg

This is with the extra oiling for the indy race heads that need to oil through the rocker shafts
The oil line on the back is reading the oil pressure at the back of the block.


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...73_13_full.jpg

That shore is purty, looks mighty spendy too :t: :sa:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by radamx

This is with the extra oiling for the indy race heads that need to oil through the rocker shafts
The oil line on the back is reading the oil pressure at the back of the block.


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...73_13_full.jpg

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I see that you painted the inside of the block, is there an advantage to this, or is it just because it looks really cool with the intake removed? :-|

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fuzz401

and more pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7/IMG_0505.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7/IMG_0515.jpg

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some of those are real nice lookin. mine is almost identical to woody's except mine is a steel line. i cut the front of the valley pan gasket to fit around the line and had to slightly dimple the heat sheild on the bottom of the intake to clear the arch in the line.

brake line
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...1with72jav.jpg

im interested in doing this mod, but my engine is in the jeep, can I do it with it installed? I guess my main concern is the metal created from drilling.

Not a good idea

I would be a bit worried about all that SS wire waiting to saw through each other & anything else that it touches & stuff falling onto the cam before making it into the oiling system. It looks pretty, but I prefer to use copper hard lines whenever possible.

Just wondering on the oil mod. Is there a recommended diameter? I'm planning on doing the mod and am considering AN-8 fittings as well as
the -8 proflex line.

Also, I am going with a 90 degree swivel thread to hose end fitting. Any issues with the height being a problem with the manifold?

Thanks!

Steve

Steve anything over 1/4 but keep in mind that you will have VERY little room between the intake manifold baffle (if you have one) and the lifter adaptor (if you install the line). I know this is very critical on R4B's

Thanks for the info. I'm going with either an Air Gap or Torker, but plan on using the baffle to the oil splash down.

Steve

Painting the inside of valley is for quicker oil drainback and usually done with red crap....can't remember name of it(CRS).....have some at shop. It won't break down like paint might.

Believe the red paint used in the lifter valley is Rustoleum DAMP PROOF PRIMER. It contains fish oil and has high particulate content. Damp Proof is an industrial product available from Grainger. At the local harware store it's called Rusty Metal Primer, contains fewer particulates, but is otherwise the same. At least that's what Rustoleum told me on the phone.

Nope, what I'm talkin about I guess is OLD school now LOL :roll: :roll:



http://www.thundersigs.com/images/concours.swf

THE OLD CHEVY POWER MANUAL REFERRED TO SOMETHING CALLED GLYPTAL. IT WAS A THICK BLACK PAING

Yes glyptal is the name of the stuff. Available from eastwood $55.00 a qt.or 12.75 oz spray, seals porous castings, promotes fast oil drainback, seals in loose sand from casting process---Lonnie :t: been around forever......

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JERSEYJOE

THE OLD CHEVY POWER MANUAL REFERRED TO SOMETHING CALLED GLYPTAL. IT WAS A THICK BLACK PAING

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Now, now, there's no need to shout.