Maybe i'll just go with a 401, or maybe a Ford 302 or Chevy 350? I would have love to stay with the 304 but this has just set me back at least another $800. and i don't know if i want to risk that much again on something i cant solve........
Maybe i'll just go with a 401, or maybe a Ford 302 or Chevy 350? I would have love to stay with the 304 but this has just set me back at least another $800. and i don't know if i want to risk that much again on something i cant solve........
Everyone claimes its the cover... how can the cover cause this problem when it worked before? The cover was the original and it was in good shape and carried good oil pressure.
My first Jeep I bought, had the 304 rebuilt and the engine died due to the original cover within a day. Just consider it one of those wear pieces. Oil pressure might not have anything to do with it, but if the cam shaft gears are not lining up with the distributor gears correctly (new oil pump gears, etc), then they will wear fast - kind of like not setting up a ring and pinion correctly. At least thats what I get out of the whole topic. MC or Fuzz, you wanna pipe in here?
Jack
did you remember to install the alignment pins in the block for the timing cover?
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Yes, both pins were in.
What is supposed to hold the cam from going too far into the block? I checked on mine and the Timing Sprocket rubs on the block..... This can't be right. There has to be something set up so it doesn't wear into the block, it is already showing some signs of wear...
some time back there was a bad batch of cam shift billets and the lobes were not in the right spot with them being off a little it caused the lifters to push the cam forward on the top of the lobe at the base it would walk back
and I beleave there is only 1 or 2 people that make the billets for all cam makers
best ever 11.669 @ 112.33 mph in 1/4 mile on 33 x 10.50 slicks and 4" lift / 7.358 @ 93.03 mph in the 1/8 mile
There is a freeze plug looking little guy in the back of the block that should be set to keep the cam shaft from travelling. Check that.
Jack
How do you know if the freeze plug is right? the cam goes back 1/8" too far into the block past the bearings. The only thing keeping it in line with the bearings is the timing sprocket hitting the block.
pheonix
Its the lifters that keep the cam from bottoming back there
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Here is what Elliot from Froadin.com had to say.......
"I was just reading about cam walk in AMC motors and apparently the cam lobes on the stock AMC are designed with mmmm.... "slope" in them that actually keeps the cam from walking. That is something that some lame cam grinders do not incorporate. I think it was about every post I'd read, where there was walk and gear damage, that replacement of the cam solved the problem. Typically gear failure occured withing 1000 miles of rebuild or sooner.
Anti walk buttons can be obtained from Performance American Style, but those are really intended for use with roller cams.
If you find scoring on the inside of the timing cover or have endplay in the cam... you found the culprit. I think you are on the right track."
I think he is too, I have endplay in the cam and there are score marks on the inside of the timing cover. Also my engine failed at mile 750 and The cam came with a rebuild kit so it was likely a regrind. Thanks to Elliot at Froadin.com.........
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