A simple question I'm sure, the front spring centering bolt is too long,bottoms in the springplate. The pin, where it goes into the spring perch appears to be two pieces but try as I might, I cannot split the two? Grinder time? Thanks for any ideas.
J
Not sure if I am following you completely here. So the bolt is too long? By what means, the spring won't seat fully on the axle due to the head being too big? Or is there too much thread sticking out of the bottom of the spring?
Jack (SOA on RE 4.5" Extreme Duty leaves, used to be spring under)
Sorry for the confusion...SUA top of the centering pin seems to be about an 1/8th too long and will not let the spring plate sit flush on spring pack. The destructions mention a "spacer" that can be removed if not using a floating shim(a shim on hte front axle??????)
J
Tin man - the 'spacer' is probably an angled shim to rotate the pumpkin up to meet the drive shaft. When you put a lift in it is usually necessary to either rotate the diff with an angled shim or break the knuckels (torch'm and rotate just the ends) and rotate the whole assy. This is the bewt way because you can then keep all your original caster/camber settings. Rotation by a shim will distrub those angles and it's a trade off between steering and tire wear.
From the way you described your problem the thread end of the bolt is too long. If you can't flip the bolt (use some heavy duty 'C'-clamps to hold the spring pack together when you flip the bolt), just grind down what's in the way. Make sure you leave enough nut/bolt to ensure the springs stay under the axle.
If you can't do it without leaving enough, clamp the springs, cut the bolt out and replace it putting the head of the bolt on top. Make sure it fits your spring pads first
Mudrat
" “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
"'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
-Ronald Reagan
VOTE
Hi Mudrat,
I know what the angled shims are for, I was questioning their use on a steering axle. The way I read the destructions(I know I should have just thrown them away to begin with)is "that the pins have a "spacer" in case you are using a shim, if no shim is used and the pin is too long, remove the spacer"...the top of the pins appear to be scored or two pieces but I cannot figure out how to "shorten them"...I'll just break out the grinder tonight and make everything all better. Thanks for the input guys...sorry I was so confusing.
J
Ok, I've never done an RE kit so it was a shot in the dark. I just did a spring over with a Rancho and just swaped the bolts upside down.
Mudrat
" “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
"'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
-Ronald Reagan
VOTE
The "spacer" is usually run up from the bottom. You would need to clamp the spring pack with a large C clamp and remove the centering pin. The spacer will then slide or screw off, and you can replace the centering pin without it.
If it's just 1/8", I vote for the grinder.
Bob
tufcj
1969 AMX
1967 Rambler Rogue
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you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
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every time I do a SOA I need to grind a little off the pins
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First off RE's instructions can bite the big one. They are absolutely horrible. They have (at least when I did mine) wrong part numbers in there compared to what I recieved, etc. Anywho, yes use the shims on the front AND rear axles. They have done their homework and it really is a good kit - just really crappy instructions. Anywho, the pins are a little ling to compensate for the shims. They will keep your caster in check and help you steer straight (makes a big difference on the interstate). I didn't put mine on initially and it sucked, put the shims in and no more driveshaft vibes and the steering improved as well. If you decide to not use the shims, look at the bolts and you will notice that RE put little spacers (like little washers) in there just for this reason. Like Mudrat said, just C-clamp the cprings, get a pair of vise grips and a wrench and take the spacer out. If you don't have spacers, then yup, grind away baby!!
Hope this helps,
Jack
Thanks guys! I figured it out on my own last night...Just had to LOOK at the pin. The kit didn't come with front shims...I'll try it without first. The last lift on this Jeep was SUA over 4"(don't ask Central 4WD SUCKS) and had nary a steering problem. Lifted, overall, what do you think of your RE lift? Thanks again guys for all your input!
J
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