Scout 44's and SOA

[78304CJ-7]

It may work for you and the type of wheeling you do. I do alot of off camber stuff. I didn't want full width but didn'y want to be too tall either. Just IMO that is really tall for < 60" WMS axles. I guess you could adjust with less Back spacing on your wheels.


-RJ

[78304CJ-7]

I am working on 1.5" lift springs SOA with a 1" BL. Those are 37 MTR's. I think a 3" lift spring SOA is alot unless you are going full width. Here are some pics of mine. I Moved the front axle forward 1.5".

It is a bit much and I had an angle difference as in the front was 3" higher than the rear - so I cut it back down. If my original measurements were correct I'm right about 7" over all to the floor board.

I wish AI had as much room in my shop as you do

Mudrat

I see the problem. That is an old body shop that I am borrowing as it hasn't been used in about 10 years. It leaks and is about to be torn down in the spring. I wish I had that much room as well. I don't ecen have a garage at this point . I will hopefulyl have it rolling this weekend under her own power. I am working on the clutch now. After that weld the rear perched and plumb the brakes.

-RJ

[tufcj]

My CJ with 1.5" lift springs, SOA and shackle reverse, TJ flares. 37" MT/Rs.





I used a cut down (56") Dana 44HD, 1/2" wall axle tubes. It's fitted with Ford rotors for the stronger stub shafts, internal hubs, and 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern. 35 spline Dana 60-2 semi floater rear coming during the winter.

[78304CJ-7]

I like it. Very nice setup. From the looks of it you ommited the sway bar. How does it ride without it. Did you move that front forward or does the SR do that on it's own. I would like to see how you mounted your shocks I am looking for some good idea's thanks!

-RJ

[Mudrat]

I see the problem. That is an old body shop that I am borrowing as it hasn't been used in about 10 years. It leaks and is about to be torn down in the spring. I wish I had that much room as well. I don't ecen have a garage at this point . I will hopefulyl have it rolling this weekend under her own power. I am working on the clutch now. After that weld the rear perched and plumb the brakes.

-RJ

Yeah, I could use another week or two off from work, limit myself to one project Jeep (Daughters YJ is in process too - outside). Finally got her roll bar out (swaping in an 'H' stlye from a 93 YJ) and found the typical body rust I need to cut and replace - on both sides.



Hey, this is my baby girl so I want to make sure it's RIGHT!!!

And to get the dash back together I need those funcky little cable adjusters . . anybody have a couple they aren't using??

During ...



STILL diring - but furhter along ... notice the color change???



I've got the Tuffy 'glove box' ready to go in but wanted to get he cables adjusted first

Mudrat

[tufcj]

The upper shock towers are Wagoneer, the lower mount is the Chevy mount (relocated), but I cut the tabs for the bolt off, welded on a flat plate parallel with the axle, drilled a hole and bolted in a shock mount pin. I like the shock pins mounted in a front/rear alignment, that way the shock rotates on the pin when the axle twists, instead of fighting the bushing if mounted side/side.

I used the SRS kit from M.O.R.E (www.mountainoffroad.com), which moves the axle forward about 1.5". It also uses a 2.5" wide front spring instead of the CJs stock 2".

As far as the sway bar, it's been gone since the Jeep was almost new. I get a lot of body lean in corners with the soft suspension, but I drive it like a Jeep, not a sports car. I've driven it on 400+ mile road trips, at 75+ MPH, and it drives straight and true.

It works very well, I can ramp over 1000 on a 20 degree ramp.

Bob.
tufcj

[Mudrat]

My CJ with 1.5" lift springs, SOA and shackle reverse, TJ flares. 37" MT/Rs.

What distance do you have between your axle and the bump stop? Looks like you have more room than I do at 7"??

Mud

[tufcj]

I measured last nite. I have 7" between the top of the U-bolt plate and the frame. I use factory cast steel Chevy truck plates with the Chevy 5/8" u-bolts. The bumpstop (Rancho) is almost 3 1/2" tall. That gives me about 3 1/2" of un-buffered up travel, and another 1 1/2 - 2" as the bumpstop compresses. I get most of my travel in droop anyway, but the cushy bumpstops prevent any hard bangs, and prolong the life of the springs by preventing too much negative arch.

Bob
tufcj

[Mudrat]

I measured last nite. I have 7" between the top of the U-bolt plate and the frame. I use factory cast steel Chevy truck plates with the Chevy 5/8" u-bolts. The bumpstop (Rancho) is almost 3 1/2" tall. That gives me about 3 1/2" of un-buffered up travel, and another 1 1/2 - 2" as the bumpstop compresses. I get most of my travel in droop anyway, but the cushy bumpstops prevent any hard bangs, and prolong the life of the springs by preventing too much negative arch.

Bob
tufcj

Wheeewu I thought I was going to have a problem. Same distance - different stops, I have the 3" poly-blocks on there but they are kinda hard. I was thinking going softer, but will wait and see how it reacts. I fabbed up my spring plates from some 3/8 plate using the 5/8" U-bolts. I put'm in my shop press and bent some curve in them to match the springs 20 Tons works wonders

What brake lines did you use? I replaced all my stock stuff with stainless tubing and have braided lines for the front end. Yeah I know MC - U don't like the braided ones, but I got these before I heard about using the chebby stuff. What I'm finding is that since I bought the lines for a 3" spring under, I'm a bit short in the brake line area.

Mudrat

[tufcj]

I used braided steel too. I've never had a problem. I've never seen one break unless they are too short and stretched. They're made by a local stock cars shop. The neat thing on mine is that the frame and caliper adapters thread onto the lines themselves. If I break one (never have), I have a couple of spares in the toolbox. Quick and easy to thread off and on, add fluid, bleed, and go.

I have rear discs, so I modified the rear lines to run along the frame, then drop to the calipers like the front. Keeps the line off the rear axle and up out of harm's way. The rear lines are identical to the front, so the same spare piece works there too.