Those rocker studs are screwed in and don't need any guide plates for the push rods. I would drop in a 270 comp cam and lifters. 3/8 roller rockers and chevy studs. Replace the valve springs with some crane dual springs. New valve retainers and locks. Edelbrock shorty headers, and 2-2 1/2" exhaust. Should wake it right up!
In America, there is no natural, moral, or legal right, to obligate another person or persons, to your dept or desires.
How is this for a substitute for an 8601? It's from Engle:Originally Posted by John N
P/N 5054-H Grind # K-54HYD
Valve Lift .501" & .501"
Adv. Dur. 260¬? & 260¬?
Cam Lift .313" & .313"
Dur. at .050" 214¬? & 214¬?
Lobe Separation 112¬?
.904" Lifter profile for low & midrange torque for milage & towing power from 1200-5200 R.P.M.
well gents i have the summit 8601 cam installed in my 360 that is in my 73 cj5 for about a year now and have not had any trouble what so ever out of it, sounds to me that someone did not do a very good job of inspection before putting parts in motor, I have been working on these things since 1967 and in all those years i have learned to inspect everything before installation of any part. I am not knocking on anybodys door step but you must check every part first and then more than likely you will not run into trouble.. Just my 2 pennies worth..
73CJ5,AMC360w/stainless valves, ported and polished,Offhauser Aluim Dualport Intake w/850 edelbrock Carb,10 to 1 Pistons and much more
I agree. From what I can gather, the problems are flashing in the oiling holes, and unfinished lobes. Both can be easily inspected. And if both are fine, the cam should be fine. But summit's not known to make the best cams anyway, they're decent and cheap.
John, that cam sounds more like a substitute for a K8600. But I think it will work great for what you want. A K8601 really is a big cam, its got 224 on the intake. Not gonna run good real low in a 360.
Anyone ever looked at Lunati Cams ?
Building a 367 for my '69 AMX and used the Lunati #31702
.496 / .496 - 228 / 285 IN - 235 / 300 EX
but I have a 3000 stall 10 inch and 3.73 Gears and not after low end.
May I ask if you could elaborate on the Oil Relief holes in the back of the cam, how they should look, and what they do / how they work ?
--> Went and looked at the cam, are the 2 axial relief holes in the aft most journal there to allow any oil that may get behind the cam inbetween it and the freeze plug in the back of the block to run back into the block cavity and therefore not build up pressure and shift the cam forward ?
And about the Screw in Rocker Studs, I use the 7/16 size, Crane Roller rockers, and Poly Locks. I found that the Chevy Studs were too short and the Poly Locks were only on a couple threads at the top when the rockers were properly adjusted. Replaced them with slightly longer 7/16" studs from MOROSO that are for the 351 and Boss 302 Ford, and now that solved the problem and now have plenty of Poly Lock Thread engagement when properly adjusted and the Jam Set screw doesn't really stick out but a thread or two. MOROSO Studs #67820.
And it seems AMC's always have the tip of the Valve stem flush or below the top surface of the retainer. I messed around with different retainers and locks to get the Valve stem tip to just slightly extend above the top surface of the retainers. Anyone else noticed this and/or made this "adjustment" ??
For Valve Springs I use K-Motion Duals for years and have had good luck with them. Anyone else ever looked at K-Motion Valve Springs ? My understanding is they are a small family owned bussiness in Indiana, and I always try to support the small independent when I can.
Some thoughts and questions for what it's worth.
Thanks in advance for same.
Now if I can just get motorvated and finish buildin' this motor .......
Plenty of time now since I got fired on July 19th, there's just this money thing....
I did't run the summit cam but had enough problems with my comp 268 the first cam sent out was missing the front keyway for the dist gear so they gladly replaced that the replacement cam had #4 journal +.01 oversized that was enough on new cam bearing to spin it. I hadn't miked the cam journals first but since it was tighter than the max size i called comp they said had I not already run it they would have swapped it out.all I wanted was a replacement i figured that the rest of the engine damage was my fault for not micing the cam,but no such luck I understand quality control isn't perfect but a little customer service would go a long way towards keeping a customer. I feel comp let me down and I can't recommond them but replaced it with a ENGLE cam and would recommond them.
Giz
Well Giz, Im with you.. There is a little thing called quality control..sheesh
"A man's got to know his limitation's"
Dirty Harry.
Sorry to drag this thread back to life, but it has alot of good info... Could anyone show a pic. of a 8600 summit with transfer line problems?
I run a stock 8? 360 tf727, 3:55, maybee soon 4:11 gears and want to add a cam and junk yard tbi. Jeep is used for dunes, trails, mud and street (real multi-purpose vehicle hehe).
I would would like to know how to inspect the oil transfer lines when I get one. I do understand how to inspect the grind of the lobes.
thanks
any ideas of above post??
thanks
I'm no expert
in rear most journal axial holes free and clear to relieve oil from between cam butt and freeze plug
in front most journal a groove all around and/or a groove in bearing
one radial hole feeding one axial hole through front journal face
this hole lines up with a notch in aft face of cam sprocket, critical
chamfer around aft side hole of cam sprocket
clean second "keyway" through cam sprocket, eccentrc, dizzy
clean small oil holes radialy through dizzy
flat smooth heavy cam bolt washer seals against dizzy
cam bolt not to long as to prevent bottoming in cam
is this what you're talkin' ?
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